Rocker switch is from http://westmarine.com/ Yes it fits the factory cutout perfectly.

Definetly use Relays. Get them here Parts Express The ones in my schematic are SPST but you can get the more common SPDT 5 pin and leave one pin unused. I like to get the pre-wired relay socket harness also, but it is not necessary at all.

 

You guys are great, I appreciate the help tremendously. I am usually a trial and error learner.

I hope you don't mind a few more questions as I do this.

 

JA,

I got all of the relays, plugs and the switch you suggested today. I plan on doing the wiring this weekend. Again, thanks, I will let you kow how it goes.

 

Cool. I went to a local welder this weekend to have a pair of brackets fabbed up to mount my reverse lamps along side the factory tow hitch. I want them where they will not be able to hit the ground. I was amazed when he refused the (simple?) job. He was not doing anything else and it would have only took an hour at most. At first it was a go then when I told him his idea was no good as I needed the lamps to be able to swivel up and down for aiming purposed he said it was no longer worth his time.

 

Interesting, I plan on doing the same thing. I want them to be protected, but able to swivel, Etc.

 

Quick electrical question:

With 30A relays and fog/headlights that shouldn't ever draw more than 15A, should I use 30A fuses, or should I use something smaller and closer to the headlight's rating?

 

I've recently performed this mod based on Jalaber's awesome diagram, however, I'm scratching my head about what went wrong during my install.... When the 12v+ continuous is connected to terminal 1 on the switch (Cole Hersee 58328-103BP), the pilot lamp glows very dim, almost like there is a short/feedback problem.

I've doublechecked all of my wiring, connections, & relays, and they seem to be ok. I've also checked continuity across the various terminals of the switch, and it appears to be operating as it should. I've also checked out the instructions on the switch and tried its recommendation of connecting terminal 4 to load 1 and ground (as opposed to Jalaber's diagram of connecting terminal 4 to the grounding relay), however this still didn't resolve the situation. It almost seems like the power is bleeding across the terminals of the switch since the dim glow still takes place if nothing is connected to terminal 4.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem. I'd really like to have the switch connected to 12v+ continuous so that I can turn on the auxillary lamps at any time, however, I've been forced to use an ignition controlled power source in the meantime since the dimly glowing pilot (when the switch is turned off) isn't good for man nor beast when my rig is turned off. Any thoughts or insight would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.

 

For what you probably spent you could have gotten the KC back-up light kit with wiring harness and it is pretty much plug and play like you guys want. Switch them on separately, switch them to come on with back-up lights or off period. It took a couple hours to install and cost less than $100 for everything. Good amount of light too.

Good luck!

 

Old thread, I know. But I'm having the same issue as described below. Anyone know what could be wrong?

Everything seems to be connected correctly however both LEDs on the switch are constantly glowing slightly dim when switch is in the OFF position. The back-up lights work perfect; but the switch lights are driving me nuts.