DeathSycthe02

I did this install on my elocker and it works great, i haven't had any issues

Phessor

I wired mine up and the switch light comes on when I activate it. The dash light I used was for the rear anti lock brakes. It comes on when the motor engages the locker.
Thanks for the help on this one!!!

DD03SR5

the wire that you used for your locker was it stranded or solid im having trouble finding the right stuff

Phessor

http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=n...18/803/=j9ns02

I used this wire, Flexible Multiconductor Cable Unshielded, 18/7 AWG, .34" OD, 600 VAC, Gray 9936K21 with a plastic shielding wrap.

Phessor

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

What I used and what I have specified above is a 7 strand conductor made up of 18 gauge stranded wire (i.e. 18/7).

DD03SR5

Wired the locker up this weekend, for some reason I'm blowing a fuse. All of the wiring is right I went over it a couple of times. I'm wondering if I maybe don't have the actuator clocked in the axle properly, any input??

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I guess try and root through these links for any ideas. Nothing comes to my mind.

http://rodnh.byethost12.com/tacoma/locker.htm

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42460

DD03SR5

I went through all the wiring, and tested the actuator out of the diff. it seems to work fine. do you think that the amperage of the motor going through the end switches might be to high. or maybe the gear in the diff is sticking and the motor is stalling and drawing high amps ?

FUNrunner87

I know this is an old post, but I will be using it to help my swap.


There are two pins for the actual light in the switch. This light is kind of like a "night light", so you can find the button in a dark cab. Pin 4 (G/R) is the power, coming from the "10A Panal Fuse", and Pin 3 (W/G) is the ground which runs to the rheostat (dimmer knob mounted on the dash). So this light should come on when you turn on your park/running lights (1st click on the light switch).

The light in the cluster in controlled by the 4WD ECU and has no direct link to the RR Diff lock sw.

The above info is based on a wiring diagram for a 1999 Tacoma.

FUNrunner87

So I am a day late and maybe a dollar short, but I wanted to add my 2 cent. In the OP's diagram, he shows 4 pins on the RR Diff lock sw, however there are 5 pins. From what I can find on my diagram, again a 99 Taco, I can only see that pins 2-5 are used, and the 1st one is left blank. Pins 2 and 5 tell the 4WD ecu that it either needs to lock, or unlock the diff. Pins 3 and 4 are only for the small lamp INSIDE the switch itself. Make sure you are using the right pins!!

I don't have a factory TRD truck, so I am not sure what the plug looks like, but I would imagine that the plug, only has 4 wires in it, with one open spot (pin 1).

Hope this helps!

94 Newbie

How do you change that bulb ? Mine no workie - factory locker switch.


Thanks !

Britt

FUNrunner87

You have to pop the switch out of the dash, there is a little round socket that is in the side. You turn it 1/4 of a turn and it will come out. The bulb is super small. I don't know.any other place besides Toyota to get them.

94 Newbie

It is the simple things that will drive you nuts.

Looks like the switch should light up w/ the panel lights - it did not, so I bought an oh so cheap bulb ( $ 10.97 from the stealer ! ).

Replaced it - still no lights. I notice there are only 2 wires on my plug in to the switch - green w/ a yellow stripe and a black one I think .

My dimmer switch does not have a light on it, either - I wonder if the blinking Toyota security light to the left of the switch was port installed, not factory, and if somehow they robbed the light power to run the LED.

Total WAG - does anyone have just the wiring diagram for the factory Rear Lock Switch on a 4 Runner ? Curious if there are more than 2 wires normally. All the dash stuff does what it is supposed to - blinks while engaging, and solid when locked.

Thanks !

Britt

94 Newbie

Lots of searching last night - apparently a member here named Phong had the answer way back when !

See Phongs e-locker site here :

http://sonoransteel.com/phong/retrof...ic_locker.html


But , this pretty picture tells the story. I have 2 wires.





So, I will need to look under there and see where I can power up this bulb off a dimmer switch driven feed - unless someone has a quick been there , done that, here's how thread link.

Britt

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

The switch that came out of a 1998 Taco that I am using in my 1996 Taco has the 4 wires like I drew.

The switch that I am using in my 1996 4Runner only has 2 wires coming out of the plug. I have pulled three of these switches out of 4Runners at salvage yards. All of the 4Runner switches that I have encountered only have 2 wires coming out of the plug but still have a bulb inside...yeah, I don't know what Toyota was thinking either.

I hope your brain works better than mine did when you go to hook the locker switch up to the dimmer switch. I recently installed a power inverter out of a Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix) into my 4Runner and it took me a while to figure out which wire to tap into at the dimmer to illuminate the switch. At first I had it wired up backwards, when the dash lights were low the inverter switch was bright. Once I got it all figured out it ended up being a really clean install, looks factory!

FUNrunner87

hmmm... I didnt know there was a difference in pin count between the 4runners and Tacomas.

I am pretty sure that the dimmer switch controls the ground.


any-who, Thanks for taking the time to post this thread. It is very helpful!

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I should specify...pin count is the same, number of wires being used is different.

94 Newbie

I have found so far Zero Tacos in the junkyards that have a switch, and have not had many more than 1 or 2 to look at, either. Lots of 4 Runners - only 1 ( a 2000 ) that had the same 2 wire plug. I may grab that one.

I don't have the notes in front of me, but I found a diagram from the bottom of this site :
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/



That shows me the way the dimmer is wired.

I found identical wires in a unused plug located to the left and above the instrument cluster , and tested w/ a meter - yup, power when the light switch is turned on, and none when off.

(Green for # 1, and white w/ black stripe for # 3 IIRC )

I also bought a chunk of a wiring harness off a '99 4 Runner with these same plugs thinking I could use the pins out of them and put those in our 2 pinned wiring plug.

Nope - both of 'em are the wrong size to fit.

So, if I have to, I will grab that connector I found, take the pins out of it, and put them into my factory connector.

My diff lock switch has 5 pins on it, BTW - the top is not used, the next is one of the lock wires, the next 2 are blank, and the last is the other lock wire.

I really like the idea of a neat ( factory-ish ) install , but even a jury rig is not easy given the incredible small size of the plug, and the lack of slack in the connector harness.

The quest - for now - will continue.

Britt

94 Newbie

I searched yesterday for Tacos in the boneyards - nothing doing.

So, I grabbed that 4 Runner plug I found and by pulling the white holder out ( pry up from one of the open wiring slots to get it moved forward, then grab it with needle nose pliers ) I could then figure out that the wire connectors are held by black plastic tabs that need to be pried up to get them out.

I then plugged those connectors into my switch plug, crimped on a spade end, and plugged them into the unused dash connector I found.

Ta Da - lights !

The light did not dim, however - it was on at full brightness and did not change.

My desire for perfection got the best of me this morning, and I changed the one wire on the plug in the dash from wht/blk stripe (same color wire as terminal 3 in the dimmer drawing I posted above ) to the wht/grn stripe, or terminal 2, and now it dims along w/ the others.

Life is good, and no hacking of the wire harness was done - it is all reversible if for some reason that needs to be done.

HTH -

Britt

RAWTacoma

I just swapped rear ends from an 06' TRD offroad to an 06' TRD Sport double cab long bed, I followed the wiring posted by black_taco exactly, I ran all of the grounds off the relay to a plug and a ground under the dash and all of the hot leads directly through the firewall to the battery with an inline 15a fuse. (I know this isnt ideal but wanted to get it working before running it to an ignition dependant power source)

Heres the problem, when I engage the locker it locks up but the fuse blows, if I depress the locker switch as if to unlock, then replace the fuse under the hood it unlocks and doesnt blow the fuse... Im at a loss, not sure what to do... maybe the locker is pulling more than 15a to engage and all I need to do is up my wire diameter and fuse amperage from the battery? Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: Fuse will not blow when locking/unlocking when wheels are off the ground and the tires are rotated to a position where the locker wont actually lock. The actuator will cycle in and out when locking with no issue in other words, but, as soon as the axle locks the fuse blows.

Edit 2: Found the culprit but still dont have a solution, what could be causing this circuit to short out (the one outlined with the dashed red line )? The locker works without issue if I disconnect this plug on the axle (blue/yellow and black/white wires) What would be impacted if I simply ran it without this circuit? It appears to me that its only function could be to light the indicator light? is this correct?

Edit 3: Got it sorted out, this thread seems dead but to help those in the future Ill include the solution, my problem was that I didnt want to run to the dash indicator light and had the blue and yellow to hot and the other to ground, an obvious short circuit.. A few more things to note, on 05+ Tacomas if you are using the stock switch you need to use the TOP two pins instead of the top and bottom pins, also to clear up the wiring on the indicator light circuit as shown below, you need to run a +12v wire to one side of the dash indicator light (preferably from a source connected to the rheostat dimmer) and the blue and yellow wire to the other side. (big thanks to Habanero for this information) Tested the locker out today works great!