CV joint problem? Diagnosis?
#61
just torque it to spec. and use a new cotter pin on the castle nut. 105 ft-lb. as shown in the schematic above and then check it after a week or so. you may think about turning the balljoint stud 180° from where it's at now since that part of the ball (inside the boot) will be less worn because of the angle it's been at since the factory.
Last edited by keisur; Dec 8, 2004 at 05:15 AM.
#62
Dayum!!!! I was on my way home yesterday and started hearing a hmmmmmm/grrrrrrrrrr type noise. It would come and go so I realy wasn't sure what it was. Got home and jacked the vehicle up and started in on some troubleshooting. Turns out my drivers front wheel bearing has gone/is going bad. Guess what I'll be doin' this weekend.
#63
Great, sounds like they aren't lasting as long as they should. maybe when I get all my shop stuff up here finally I'll go ahead and just replace both sides. they aren't making any noise but I'd rather not wait until they do.
#64
so the bearing is swapped, the knuckle is back in. THE MUFFLE RUBBING/GRINDING SOUND IS STILL THERE!!
I really can't tell now if it's coming from the driver side or the passenger side. All I can tell is the noise comes from underneath the driver seat, and it gets faster as the car gets faster....
What else can it be? What's next?
I really can't tell now if it's coming from the driver side or the passenger side. All I can tell is the noise comes from underneath the driver seat, and it gets faster as the car gets faster....
What else can it be? What's next?
Last edited by Badmice1; Dec 9, 2004 at 08:44 PM.
#65
Could you possibly be hearing the brake pads scuffing on the rotors??
If not, the shop probably damaged the bearing in the press process.
Jack each corner seperately and rotate and try to wobble each tire. Start with the one yu just fixed.
This should help isolate it to one wheel. If not, it's farther up the drive train.
I think I'm goina tackle mine this weekend (busy, don't know if I'll get'r all done by monday) and have a friend loaning me their digi cam. I'll try to get "in process" pics of the pressin' process. This is by far the hardest "maintenance" I've ever had to do on a Toyota truck but it's still totally doable.
If not, the shop probably damaged the bearing in the press process.
Jack each corner seperately and rotate and try to wobble each tire. Start with the one yu just fixed.
This should help isolate it to one wheel. If not, it's farther up the drive train. I think I'm goina tackle mine this weekend (busy, don't know if I'll get'r all done by monday) and have a friend loaning me their digi cam. I'll try to get "in process" pics of the pressin' process. This is by far the hardest "maintenance" I've ever had to do on a Toyota truck but it's still totally doable.
Last edited by SloPoke; Dec 10, 2004 at 05:35 AM.
#67
I haven't really given the fluid a thought, so I will do some re-checking this wkend.
I have noticed that I can feel a very very small vibration in the gas pedal + brake pedal while this "humming" noise occurs.
What's the likelihood that the this small vibration is coming from the right side of the vehicle (I replaced the left front bearing)? How 'bout from the back?
I have noticed that I can feel a very very small vibration in the gas pedal + brake pedal while this "humming" noise occurs.
What's the likelihood that the this small vibration is coming from the right side of the vehicle (I replaced the left front bearing)? How 'bout from the back?
#68
Is your rig lifted? Is it a taco or a 4runner? Have you jacked up the rear and had someone put in gear to see if the sound is coming from your drive train?
I had a similar problem with mine and I just lowered my carrier bearing and that helped with my taco.
I had a similar problem with mine and I just lowered my carrier bearing and that helped with my taco.
#71
I think you're talking about the whole diff. the carrier bearings are inside, on each side of the carrier, the carrier is what the ring is bolted to.
like these:
like these:
Last edited by keisur; Dec 10, 2004 at 01:59 PM.
#72
Nah. The carrier bearing for the xtra cab or long bed. They have a 2 pc. rear driveshaft with a "carrier" bearing supporting the middle joint.
You can see it here in this pic
You can see it here in this pic
Last edited by SloPoke; Dec 10, 2004 at 02:35 PM.
#73
ahh, ok then, I always called it a Center Support Bearing - here it is in all it's glory: but it's not going to help him since he's got a '98 4Runner, no "carrier bearing."
http://www.ttora-ne.com/old_site/tto...a_cab_taco.htm
http://www.ttora-ne.com/old_site/tto...a_cab_taco.htm
Last edited by keisur; Dec 10, 2004 at 02:34 PM.
#74
no tacos or lifts, just a stock 3gen 4runner. i've going to do some serious investigating this weekend, any possible sites I should look at specifically? So far Keisur said front diff fluids...
#76
i discovered something while driving today. when i gradually slowed my car from ~30mph to 0mph, i feel slight vibration & very constant studders (as if the car had feet & it's dragging its feet). Not large enough to shake the steering wheel, but enough that I feel the vibrations on the brake pedal.
is this a sign of a warped rotor?
is this a sign of a warped rotor?
Last edited by Badmice1; Dec 14, 2004 at 01:12 PM.
#77
Originally Posted by Badmice1
so the bearing is swapped, the knuckle is back in. THE MUFFLE RUBBING/GRINDING SOUND IS STILL THERE!!
I really can't tell now if it's coming from the driver side or the passenger side. All I can tell is the noise comes from underneath the driver seat, and it gets faster as the car gets faster....
What else can it be? What's next?
I really can't tell now if it's coming from the driver side or the passenger side. All I can tell is the noise comes from underneath the driver seat, and it gets faster as the car gets faster....
What else can it be? What's next?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/rub-moan-squeak-front-end-4runner-please-help-47923/
I'm replacing a tie rod end and the rack bushings this weekend, but I don't have a lot of hope. They NEED replacing, but I'm starting to wonder if it's a CV. The thoughts of bushings and a tie rod end came from this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/steering-rack-movement-sound-can-you-help-me-out-46028/
I'm also starting to think that it may be a knuckle bushing:
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...imrockford.htm
Other folks have suggested that it could be something as simple as the dust cover rubbing on the rotor. I don't think that's it though.
Fun times.
#78
Originally Posted by midiwall
I'm also starting to think that it may be a knuckle bushing:
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...imrockford.htm
Fun times.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...imrockford.htm
Fun times.

#79
Originally Posted by keisur
I thought your hubs were the same as ours. are your auto's like that '91?
Umm, honestly, I looked through that thread and hit on that page 'cause the symptoms were the same. My guess is that you're right - it would certainly explain why I couldn't find those bushings for a 96.

Okay... I can go now - I learned something today.
Thanks Keisur! That's one less thing to look at!
#80
Midi - Thanks, man! I will consider looking into the bushing. I don't have a machine press though, so this job may be reserved for the shop (I have sealed bearings). Can I pull this job off w/o a machine press?
This problem is not fixed, but it hasn't worsen either. I agree that it can only be something in the hub. I don't have any CV boot damages, so I will not consider taking off the axle, unless necessary.
Anything else? I'm running out of ideas.
This problem is not fixed, but it hasn't worsen either. I agree that it can only be something in the hub. I don't have any CV boot damages, so I will not consider taking off the axle, unless necessary.
Anything else? I'm running out of ideas.
Last edited by Badmice1; Jan 11, 2005 at 01:24 PM.


