Flygtenstein

Steve, radial Claws run short and I think you can find a better 37 for less than the PJ's.

I found this summer that my power steering pump had been boiled on too many times with the locker and 33's and had eaten a seal. Rebuild is on the way, but a stronger replacement and cooler sound better.

I also think that 37's would kill your CV's and blow if you had to hit 65. I forget if you are supercharged, but 4.88's would be way short.

When I hit 37's, I want a 37 on a 17 like the Krawler or MT/R. Looking at less than 2 bills for the MT/R's and they will hit 40k easy.

Did you finally get the rear pattern set right? How much out of whack was it?

SteveO

Yeah, there is no doube about that. I called Desert Rat to figure out what the PJ21R's (37x12.5x16) are running. I was quoted $271 each. Pretty high.

Stronger replacement for the power steering pump? What do you have in mind? I was thinking about swapping in a heavy duty PS pump as well, but I'm not sure where to start, Land Cruiser pump maybe? I already have an Autotranny cooler in line with the PS.

Fortunately, I have manual hubs and wouldn't have the hubs turned in at 65. With the manual hubs, nothing in the front turns when I'm on the road.

As for the ring gear setup, yeah I finally got it set right. I know a guy at the stealership who has done hundreds of these ring gear setups. He stated the patten was sitting on the heel of the tooth, the front pinion seal was torn, the bearing cap lock nuts were over-torqued (stretched the bolt pretty bad), and the pinion bearing was rusty on the inside of the bearing. Oh yeah, the bearing race had lots of scratches on the inside where the bearings ride. It was a mess to say the least. It cost me $330 bucks to get it setup right, but I feel much better with this setup, and I was shown the pattern before I took it out of the shop (stealership). There is one mechanic at the stealership that I trust. He has 20 years experience, and does quality work and is certified as a ASE master tech. I had him do an oil change for me, and he stated that I should bring the Runner back in just before 60k and have the leaking water pump changed out under warranty, and he will do the timing belt for the charge of the belt. He is pretty cool, watching out for me.

As for the gearing, I think 36" meats would put me right in the green. Check out this link on 4Wheelparts site.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tirel_Gear_Ratio.asp

I started out with 4.30 (4.27) gears and 31" tires, which put me in the green at 3008rpms.

I'm now running 4.88 gears and 33" tires, which puts me in the red, more power, less fuel. When I first put in the gears, no kidding, I thought I had a gas leak. The fuel was going so fast, I was kinda scared. Now I know why the fuel guage was dropping so quickly.

I would like to run, at a minimum, 35-36" tires. This would put me back in the green, the best overall performance. Originally, I went straight to 4.88 gears with the intention of running larger tires, such as 35" meats. One problem is, most 315/75R16 tires are really 34.5 or so. Right now I'm running 33.5. One inch is not much of a change.

Flygtenstein

I would not trust that calculator. It says that I would be turning 3500 rpms at 65 when I am actually hitting 2500 or so. I calculated again after reading and it says I am a little undergeared which is completely wrong based on 5.29's with 33's and the auto.

I have nothing in mind yet for the replacement, I just carry a bottle of ATF for it right now. Rebuild kits are pretty cheap, brand new pumps are likely not.

An extra inch of tire height is a lot IMHO. When I hung my rear at Whale Rock, I would have been scott free with 35's.

It sure would make Schaefer crazy if you got MT/R's. Sure is hard not to if the rig is not hitting major street miles.

I know you have the manual hubs, I was talking about the CV's giving up when you take "Steve" lines and load the front end. Lots more weight, lots more traction, likely lots more BOOMS.

SteveO

Yeah, I gotta be more carefull.

I do have anothe daily driver, my '87 4Runner, so....I'm kinda up in the air as to what type of tires I should get. I dunno, I think I better go play some Xbox to clear my head.

sschaefer3

Why? I would not care one way or the other. Actually get some MT/R's so I can spank you with Yoko AT's.

Flygtenstein

I just thought MT/R's had graduated to the list of things you hated.

I checked your site again, those tires do look huge. How are they going to do on the road when you get some old junk? 35's are awful big for the mall!

SteveO

Albuquerque Jim

Flygtenstein

For clarity, my intent was to joke with Schaefer.

Since I have had the pleasure of wheeling with both Steve's, I think that I can say they both need and will indeed thoroughly use 35" or larger tires.

SteveO

and it was a great joke. The YOKOs will definitly be needed to clear the curb in the mall parking lot.

I really like the YOKOs tread design, but I don't like the thin sidewall.

Albuquerque Jim

I am there with you Flyg, I thought your sarcasm was hilarious.

And, again for clarity, I appreciate all that both Steve's have done to pave the way for us 3rd gen owners and the like.

SteveO

yeah, nothing like snapping an axle for the amusment of all, especially for the DVD.

Who was it that said "THANKS A LOT STEVE!" right after I broke my axle on the White Elephant?????

It was perfect timing.....

Fahrenheit 451

First, I'd just like to say
I love seeing that big droop with the body sitting flat. If I could set up a 4Runner like that, my wife wouldn't keep jumping out whenever we get to something that makes it jump around or lean
I think you might need one of two things though. Either a good sized crowbar or some antireversing shackles. In this pic http://www.hunt4steve.com/P2130004.JPG you look pretty close to flipping that shackle backwards into the frame.

SteveO

Actually I have another pic, where the shackle is even further back. The shackle is attached to a johnny joint, that is welded to the frame. This rather large johnny joint socket keeps the spring from locking backwards into the frame. I'm also going to install some bump stops to stop the negative arching.

sschaefer3

I can't say I was overly impressed with the MT/R's. They are on my list of things you have to have to be cool on the internet.

Top of the list:

1. SAS, The highest level of internet coolness.
2. SAWs. Bling bling bling bling and stiff as hell.
3. MT/R's. Look Cool, Work Well on Dirt, Suck Extrodinatre on pavement.
4. Snorkel, Big Black and Intimidateing
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14656789. Marlin Ultimate Crawler. (can't see it from the outside)
14656790. Front and Rear Lockers. (can't see it from the outside)
14656791. Re-Geared Ring and Pinion (can't see it from the outside)

Bottom of the list.

Bighead

Well, I guess I am working on the bottom of the list now. I should have both of those within the next couple of weeks. And number 2 on Steve's hit list might change if I ever get the parts together to try something different (yes, I still need to talk to you Steve).

Are you sure the important stuff is usually the items you can't see? I was thinking about chroming my AZ skidplate for some additional bling factor.

SteveO: I can't believe how tall your Runner has gotten. So when are you going to do the SAS?

Vato Loco

Wow! :shock2:

sschaefer3

You could do that, then you could "see" it better.

RTdawgs

Mine are softer than soft, ride smoother than others, drop farther than others, compress better than others. Maybe the V6 makes a difference.

sschaefer3

Gee, I wonder who you ripped all those ideas off from ???

:pat: :pat: :pat: :pat: :pat: