dgray1983

Hello all, new to the forum. 99 SR5 with 240,XXX miles, 2WD, runs like a champ. Searched for this topic but couldn't find any real solutions, it seems that everyone's systems miraculously started working shortly after the radio went out..

Problem:
I went to push the actual cigarette lighter (coiled metal plug with push button) into the 12v adapter. I have never used it for anything but charging a cell phone. When I pushed it in I heard a small but distinct 'pop' behind the dash and the my clock, radio, and 12v adapters all lost power. I have checked all interior and exterior fuses. I am assuming there is an inline fuse somewhere that links all components but wanted to get some more facts before I begin disassembling the dash. Thanks for the assistance.

Derek

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Do you have the stock radio harness??

The radio and lighter socket have different fuses

There would only be inline fuses if they were added after market

After Market Radio may have one.

the 15 amp dome light fuse protects the clock and radio lights

All these fuses are in the fuse block in the on the left side just remove the plastic cover if it is still there.

Time to invest in a Meter if you don`t have one

dgray1983

Stock radio, I figured they were on different fuses but threw me for a loop when they all went out at the same time. Any ideas for the 12v adapter not working as well? I will try to take a meter to it soon and let you know the results.

TheDurk

The Power Outlet has its own PWR OUT fuse, but it is routed through a relay, and the power for that relay trigger is the same ACC fuse as the radio, clock and lighter.(The DOME fuse runs the clock, but the ACC fuse makes it light up. Your clock is working, it just won't light up. The radio also requires BOTH the ACC and DOME fuses to work.) Sub in a known good fuse in the ACC slot and stop LOOKING at it. You are just wasting your time. Use a test light or a known good fuse. A light is better than a meter because sometime a fuse can fail, and remake the contact across the burn. It can show a voltage to a meter, but not actually support a load which requires a decent amount of current, far more than the meter. A light takes more current so is a better test. But a known good fuse is best of all. Then put it back and make sure it didn't blow if the load is still not working.

And, sorry to be picky but it bugs me: it's not a 12V adapter. It IS 12 Volts naturally like everything else on the truck. It's just an outlet.