I understand where this guy is coming from. Looking at the engine, it doesn't look very simple compared to older cars to change the spark plugs.

You'll definetly need some extensions for your ratchet to do this. Noone even mentioned that? Yes, you're going to have to disconnect a few things like the intake tube that runs above the passenger side plugs. The drivers side you'll need to move some hoses out of the way.

From my 4 semesters of auto shop, I've never heard of using anti-seize on the spark plugs, but, I am no mechanical expert

 

If you are talking NGK irridiums, then no, they only have one electrode and should work fine because they are specifically designed for long life, but if you are using plain jane NGK plugs you should be using the dual electrode design like you get at the dealer.

The anti-sieze issue is getting a bit beat to death and to be honest, I doubt it matters on this engine because the plugs are shielded from the elements on both sides of the engine. The issue with getting plugs out of the head I found to be three-fold, first if someone over torqued them during install, second if people leave the plugs in there for too long before changing them and third if the plugs are exposed to the elements. So if you are going to change them regularly then you can probably get away just fine without it. When I changed them on customer's cars i usually put it on because who knows when the next time I or someone else would be changing them (not everyone is good at regular auto maintenance). One tip, never take plugs out of an aluminum head while the engine is still hot!

 

im guessing when you say "planbe jane" you mean normal

 

This will give you some more information to mull over.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/why-shouldnt-i-use-platinum-plugs-82295/

 

sweet thats all i needed

 

I don't mean to drag this debate on ,but i wanted to reply with a comment backed by a proven fact.
I use antiseize made by permatex, ( Just how many companies make this stuff?) and in certain application is it is a very good product . Here's the fact. Take a blob of antiseize and put it on a non conductive surface, take a fluke meter or similar meter set it to the OHM setting, and touch both probes in the blob w/o touch either probe. The meter reads INFINITE. No conductivity.

And also it appears antiseize is made with minute metal flakes , do I want this anywhere near my combustion chamber... Not

 

I think it depends on the compound.

I found this on a Loctite Copper Anti-Seize info site:

Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8 oz. brushtop bottle

A premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant that may be used to prevent seizing corrosion and galing where high temperature conditions exist. Contains a high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-sythetic grease carrier and is fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors. Temperature range: 30ºF - 1800ºF. Provides good electrical conductivity. Tested to Mil-PRF-907E.

Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings, battery cable connections.

Also on the Permatex:

Permatex® Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant

A premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant that may be used to prevent seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist. Contains a high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-synthetic grease carrier and is fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors. Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F. Provides good electrical conductivity. Meets Mil Spec #907E.

Suggested Applications:
Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings, and battery cable connections.

Prod 09128 8oz

It looks like the copper-based ones are the best for our application.

 

I use Permatex 80078 which looks like the same specs but only goes up to 1600 degrees.