95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Changed my filter brand...WOW.

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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 06:42 AM
  #21  
castrolSi's Avatar
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From: Spring, TX
Originally posted by ScottFW
If a simple filter change solved a startup rattle, it may have to do with the design of the filter's anti-drainback valve or lack thereof. Supposedly the TOY filters are very good in this regard. I only use OEM filters. They're not that expensive if you wait for the occasional 2 for $7 sales at the stealership.

However, rattling on startup ain't normal, even if the oil did drain out of the filter, as long as the truck hasn't sat parked for weeks on end. And what would a "2.2 rattle problem" be? I'm guessing you mean 2.4, since 2.4L would be the displacement of the 22RE which I assume is what's in your '88 (?) Startup rattle can be indicative of impending timing chain disaster in these engines, so if the rattle sounds like anything more than typical 22RE valve chatter it may behoove you to pull the valve cover and make sure your timing chain guides are still intact. The t-chain can make a rattle on startup for a few seconds while it's eating into your timing cover.

Now that I think about it, I suppose the anti-drainback function of an oil filter could be related to t-chain rattle: the chain tensioner is driven by oil pressure, so a lack of oil pressure at startup (from an empty filter) could leave the chain a little slack, hence the rattle.

How long since you bought the truck? Might wanna give the t-chain guides a look-see. Not trying to worry you, but you can't be too careful and it only takes fifteen minutes. Of course, if I am mistaken and you have the V6, none of this applies! I just took a guess based on that 2.2 number.
Wow, see what happens when you hang out on the Neon website
too much? Yeah, I meant 2.4 not 2.2. Thanks for the catching that.
I do need to pull the timing cover to see if there is indeed a problem,
but it was nice to know that a simple oil filter change helped that
tremendously.

~Wade
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 06:42 AM
  #22  
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From: Atl. Georgia
how much are oil and air filters from the stealership?. im gonna change my oil (for the first time might i add.., my buddy is gonna show me how to do it..not going to another place again.heh)and just want to get an idea of how much those run.
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 06:48 AM
  #23  
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From: Green Mountain, Colorado
Originally posted by kronicx
I'm getting my first oil change on my '03 V8 Runner on Friday. What oil (brand, type, everything) should I take in, or should I just let them use their oil? What about the filter? Same question. Yes, I'm letting the dealer do it while it's under warranty.
Well, people will argue oil all day! Personally I prefer synthetic and use Mobil 1. Whatever weight your owners manual specifies (5w-30?). I use the Purolator PureOne filters that did quite well in the MiniMopar study.

Chris
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 08:29 AM
  #24  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally posted by doink
how much are oil and air filters from the stealership?. im gonna change my oil (for the first time might i add.., my buddy is gonna show me how to do it..not going to another place again.heh)and just want to get an idea of how much those run.
oil filter - 3-5 bucks
air filter - 15-20 bucks
castrol oil - 18 bucks for a case at Sam's Club - that's usually enough oilfor two changes unless you're like me and run a quart of new oil through to kind of rinse, drain and then fill.

Last edited by keisur; Jun 10, 2003 at 08:30 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 08:47 AM
  #25  
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From: CO
Originally posted by keisur
oil filter - 3-5 bucks
air filter - 15-20 bucks
castrol oil - 18 bucks for a case at Sam's Club - that's usually enough oilfor two changes unless you're like me and run a quart of new oil through to kind of rinse, drain and then fill.
$3.29 from that link for the filters seems like a great deal to me! Just order a few so the shipping is cheap.

On air filters, for not a whole lot more you can just get an Amsoil (or K&N, though the Amsoils tend to be more highly recommended) and never replace it again, you just clean it periodically and get better airflow in the process. That will pay for itself.

As for the "cleaning quart", I've heard of doing that, but my philosophy is that if the stuff is stuck on there to where running the oil through under normal use doesn't get it off, another quart won't do much. I'm going to try that Amsoil Engine Cleaner and see how good a job that does; if it works well, I'll just use that immediately before each subsequent oil change in the future to get the gunk out. Cheaper than a quart of synthetic, and probably more effective...
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 08:52 AM
  #26  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally posted by denverbikeguy
As for the "cleaning quart", I've heard of doing that, but my philosophy is that if the stuff is stuck on there to where running the oil through under normal use doesn't get it off, another quart won't do much.
I do it to rinse a little more of the old oil out than would usually come out by just draining, not to unstick things from the inside.

With the amsoil air filter, I've heard people say that the oil from it gunks up in your intake so you have to clean your TBI more frequently.
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 09:26 AM
  #27  
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From: Green Mountain, Colorado
Originally posted by denverbikeguy

As for the "cleaning quart", I've heard of doing that, but my philosophy is that if the stuff is stuck on there to where running the oil through under normal use doesn't get it off, another quart won't do much. I'm going to try that Amsoil Engine Cleaner and see how good a job that does; if it works well, I'll just use that immediately before each subsequent oil change in the future to get the gunk out. Cheaper than a quart of synthetic, and probably more effective...
I run a can of BG Quick-Clean right before the change ever 3rd or 4th change w/ good reults. (I guess - at least plenty of good mechanics have told me it works well - I've never actually torn into an engine, taken pictures, reassembled, quick-cleaned then disassembled for comparison!!
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 10:18 AM
  #28  
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From: CO
Originally posted by keisur
I do it to rinse a little more of the old oil out than would usually come out by just draining, not to unstick things from the inside.

With the amsoil air filter, I've heard people say that the oil from it gunks up in your intake so you have to clean your TBI more frequently.
Gotcha, that makes sense.

With the air filter stuff, I think that's subjective. I've never had a problem, but I think those that do might just be oiling it too much. It's easy to get too much on there and not know about it - it doesn't take much, just a good even coating to get the dirt. I've even heard of people trashing their MAF sensors with air filter oil, but I'm pretty sure you gotta *soak* the thing to do that...
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 04:53 PM
  #29  
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From: N Cal
Thumbs up Oil filter surprises

I did some of my own informal research awhile back and found that (without getting too technical) Toyota filters as well as some others have a butyl rubber flapper disc behind the intake holes around the circumference. The center hole is output to your block and oil system. What this "flapper" does is prevent oil drainback into the pan, or at least slows it down greatly. When you next start your engine, there is oil trapped in the filter that gets to the top end much sooner thereby quieting your valvetrain. Without the flapper, it just takes longer to fill the oil system and lube the valvetrain components. A slightly higher viscosity (15W-40 Delo400) works great in all of my vehicles and noticibly delivers a quieter engine while raising oil pressure slightly. Some say this lowers fuel economy slightly but I didnt notice anything appreciable. Longer engine life at the expense of 1-2 MPG would be worth it to me. I get 16-17 MPG no matter what I do.

In other words, use a filter with a flapper regardless of brand.

Post what you do!!

Last edited by Dirty 4Runner; Jun 10, 2003 at 04:56 PM.
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