I dont understand this part..

 

sorry i meant i dont wanna have to drop it again in a year or soto replace it again for not putting a clutch that will last because i do tow and do off roading and i dont wanna get a clutch that wont last and i want a better grip than stock

 

bought my marlin clutch over the weekend from marlin gonna start the job tonight wish me luck

 

good luck

 

Keep us posted how it goes. I've never seen pics of a 3rd gen clutch-replacement so that would be a plus.

 

I am currently running a DXD Stage 5 Feramic Clutch and HD pressure plate. It is more clutch than I need, but It has held up to extreme abuse.

When my truck was super charged and I didn't have the right gears I went through 2 stock clutches in about 50k miles. Rock crawling without low gears is murder on the clutch.

Just a tip on clutch replacement (if you miss the pivot point, it will squeak):

 

ok so i went to go get my fly wheel resurfaced and i told them what i had and asked them for a price quote and it was 175.00 the whole kit vrs. 330 at marlin crawler and its the same exact thing and i asked them what would be better than an organic clutch and the told me a Kevlar clutch wold be better for towing off roding and for the future s/c to come and it was 270 for the whole clutch kit
so im kinda stuck right now what do you guys think?

 

What kind of grease is best for those points pointed out in the picture two posts ago?

 

Automotive grease. The same kind you use on your driveshafts.

 

ok, Thanks!

 

Try to find a high temp grease, so it won't break down so quickly.

 

Marlin Crawler 1600

 

I'm ordering a Marlin 1200 today (10% off 4th of July sale) so I'll give it a shot.

 

been 4000 miles since mew clutch love it grips great and firm and really lite on the peddle for wheellin

 

which one did you go with?

 

I just replaced my stock clutch last week. Actually it was a busy week as I did the timing belt, tensioner/idlers, valve cover gaskets, H20 pump, hoses, belts and filters. 128K on my 1997 and the friction disk was down to the rivets. I didn't take any pictures of the install but it was pretty straight forward.

The only real difficult part was the top two bell housing bolts. I ended up using a bunch of extensions over the top of the tranny and a 17mm impact swivel. The only other problems was since it was the first time my tranny had been out it was quite stuck on the bell housing alignment pins. Wedges, screw drivers and a hammer and it finally popped out.

I ordered my clutch online from ebay seller aimcoclutch. $172 shipped using oem Asco-Aisin parts. I could not be happier with the end result!

 

Spent a weekend trying to change mine, but I think its out of my league. I couldnt get to all the bolts on the bell housing and didnt want to take the exhaust off cause it would be hard to get replacement parts for the gaskets and studs and what not. Cant really afford a new exhaust right now either, just had to send it back... maybe some other time when I dont have to drive my vehicle every day

 

Do you have a 3.4L? You shouldn't have to take the exhaust off. Just unbolt the exhaust support bracket on the passenger side. Other wise the exhaust should remain untouched. No gaskets or studs to replace.

The two 17mm bolts on top of the bell housing are easiest to get to with an assortment of 1/2 extensions reaching over the top of the transmission. My overall length of extensions put me at the rear of the transfer case. I was then able to use an impact to break these bolts loose.

 

Thanks, I'll have to remember that for the future. How did you get them back in? I could only feel one of them up there and the other I couldnt reach at all.

 

centerforce all the way

I have run them in everything from volvo 740 turbos to my 650 hp camaro........

great clutch, soft pedal pressure