Before I cut the wire... Please verify for DRL mod on 2002 taco
11-25-2007, 10:08 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Before I cut the wire... Please verify for DRL mod on 2002 taco
I'm working on doing my DRL mod, following these directions from the tech-writeups
I've pulled the connector, I just wanted to verify that if I ONLY WANT TO DISABLE the DRLs I just cut the purple wire with the yellow stripe?
Can someone please tell me what the proper wire to cut is? I really don't want to cut the wrong wire, and I'm not sure if I'm matching everything up correctly.
I've pulled the connector, I just wanted to verify that if I ONLY WANT TO DISABLE the DRLs I just cut the purple wire with the yellow stripe?
Can someone please tell me what the proper wire to cut is? I really don't want to cut the wrong wire, and I'm not sure if I'm matching everything up correctly.
Last edited by LuminoZ; 11-25-2007 at 10:22 AM.
11-25-2007, 01:21 PM
#2
Don't you if you've read this thread or not, but here it is:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/2...tch-off-21308/
Here's the meat of that thread. Hope it helps:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/2...tch-off-21308/
Here's the meat of that thread. Hope it helps:
Hello All,
I was paranoid to go for it with wire clippers on a $25,00 computerized hunk-a-steel, but danger is my life, and sometimes results in success.
So, first I cut wire 2 on the 2003 Tacoma DRL relay and wired a high amperage switch inline using beefy wire, soldering all connections and in general being super careful. Using the switch, I could run truck with DRL on or off, but with DRL off the headlight relay in the engine compartment fuse box appeared to be cycling incorrectly, and buzzing. This was probably caused by my fancy driving lights, cornering lights, etc. , which were tough to get working with the DRLs. Bummer. Cutting and switching wire 2 might work for someone else, but not for me.
BUT, after splicing wire 2 together (everything back to factory normal, thank God) I went ahead and cut wire 1. Success. Was able to place a switch inline on wire one, and even have an indicator light working (dim because of low voltage) with switch to show if DRL is on or off. For what it's worth, it appears that wire 1 is the + wire, and wire 2 turns the ground on and off for the relay, or DRL, or both...
I took photos and if I have time I'll write the project up. Above will have to do for now. Time taken was about 5 hours including the experiments. Tip: If you do this, take the knee panel off, and remove the vent behind the knee panel, then remove DRL relay by backing out an obvious 10mm bolt. Once the relay is dangling, it's easy to pull the plug, and semi-easy to cut/solder wires. Battery disconnected during all, of course.
'best, Lou
I was paranoid to go for it with wire clippers on a $25,00 computerized hunk-a-steel, but danger is my life, and sometimes results in success.
So, first I cut wire 2 on the 2003 Tacoma DRL relay and wired a high amperage switch inline using beefy wire, soldering all connections and in general being super careful. Using the switch, I could run truck with DRL on or off, but with DRL off the headlight relay in the engine compartment fuse box appeared to be cycling incorrectly, and buzzing. This was probably caused by my fancy driving lights, cornering lights, etc. , which were tough to get working with the DRLs. Bummer. Cutting and switching wire 2 might work for someone else, but not for me.
BUT, after splicing wire 2 together (everything back to factory normal, thank God) I went ahead and cut wire 1. Success. Was able to place a switch inline on wire one, and even have an indicator light working (dim because of low voltage) with switch to show if DRL is on or off. For what it's worth, it appears that wire 1 is the + wire, and wire 2 turns the ground on and off for the relay, or DRL, or both...
I took photos and if I have time I'll write the project up. Above will have to do for now. Time taken was about 5 hours including the experiments. Tip: If you do this, take the knee panel off, and remove the vent behind the knee panel, then remove DRL relay by backing out an obvious 10mm bolt. Once the relay is dangling, it's easy to pull the plug, and semi-easy to cut/solder wires. Battery disconnected during all, of course.
'best, Lou
11-25-2007, 01:40 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm assuming that wire 1 is the white w/ a green stripe, and that wire 2 is white with a w/ a black stripe. I'm referencing my picture, posted above.
Can anyone please confirm this for me?
Can anyone please confirm this for me?
12-06-2007, 03:16 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
So I happened to be at the toy dealer in Flagstaff AZ today, while my friend was getting his power steering flushed...
I asked a tech about the DRL, and after some persuading I was able to get him to a computer and have a look at the wiring diagram to come up with the same conclusion as LOU had with cutting Wire 1.
The guy first suggested that I pull the DRL fuse, to which I stated that doesn't.
Then the tech suggested that I Jimmy rig the E-brake to keep the DRL's off. I told him that I didn't want to drive around with me E-brake light on...
Why is it that the Dealers can't just say "this is how you remove this nonsense..."
I'm going to try cutting wire 1 when I get home...
I asked a tech about the DRL, and after some persuading I was able to get him to a computer and have a look at the wiring diagram to come up with the same conclusion as LOU had with cutting Wire 1.
The guy first suggested that I pull the DRL fuse, to which I stated that doesn't.
Then the tech suggested that I Jimmy rig the E-brake to keep the DRL's off. I told him that I didn't want to drive around with me E-brake light on...
Why is it that the Dealers can't just say "this is how you remove this nonsense..."
I'm going to try cutting wire 1 when I get home...
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