There is an ARB bumper on E-Bay right now. It is used and ahs a reserve. There are currently no bids. I'm not sure what years it will fit, but it is mounted to a Toyota Truck (not Tacoma).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33640

 

How do you figure out if it will fit a 3rd gen? Is there a model # or something I can ask the guy for that will determine if it will mount properly?

 

You can just post a question here.. Or, I can tell you.

It won't fit. The frame rails on 2nd gens are closer together. Sorry

 

Good gosh almighty.
It be the same bumper I have.

Someone from here should snag that puppy up if they can get it for a good deal.

Yep, it's for the pre Taco trucks, and 1st & 2nd gen 4Runners.
In other words, '86 to '95 trucks & Runners.

 

but if i bought this bumper, i would have to buy new front springs probably, right? and how easy are these to install...on a beginner scale.

 

No, you just need to crank your torsion bars back up to the stock level. if you know how to use a wrench, you can install one.

 

Yes, you can get away with the stock T bars for awhile with just the bumper, and dial in a little lift.
Get some manual hubs though if you crank 'em up.
It's when you add the 80 lb winch is when you will really notice it, and you should go with new T bars.

I had to switch to the SAW 25mm bars within a few weeks after having the bumper/winch combo on, and my stock T bars were already cranked up.

It was downright unsafe to drive with all the bobbing up & down it was doing with the stock T bars.

 

i put a bid on it. $175 but didnt meet the reserve. i'd fork out maybe $300 for it, but i just dont have the cash now. so many OTHER things on my list for my truck:

FRONT DIFF $500
TIRES: $700
TIMING BELT $???
CLUTH: $200
etc
etc
etc

but its a great steal! how heavy is that thing anyway?

 

I think it's around 70 lb. or a tad less.

 

It still has 6 days left...I wouldn't bid on it until the last 30 seconds or so. Can you imagine if no one bid on the $75 dollar beginning bid until the end. Well I guess the reserve would screw you, but if it didn't have one, you could steal it pretty cheap. I never understood the benefit of bidding early. Because there is always someone who will bid more. I'll save my bid for the end....so beware!!!!

 

DIBS!!!!



heh heh. Probably a good deal if you live in indiana, but I can't imagine the shipping being less than 100 bones...

 

They are big, so they have to go truck freight.

Corey is in the ball park on the weight, plenty heavy.

Should fit runners 86-95, trucks 86 to pre-Taco.

 

I'd love to have one of those but will be getting my tires soon. I think I'll get sliders and a locker before I worry about a winch and awesome armor like that. Maybe I'll hurt my stock bumper so my wife will think its a good purchase.

 

A Highlander Hood went for 149 last weekend. I had the mouse over the bid button for about 30 minutes but decided to stay my hand and save the cash for the upcoming move.

However, I do cry myself to sleep since the auction ended.

 

can i just buy some new front shocks to lift the front end a little instead of messing with the t bars? and if so, what are some good ones to use? thanks

 

Shocks do not provide lift...springs do. You will need to crank the torsion bars up front to get any lift.

 

I've never really had a problem with this, and my swaybar is long gone as well. I ran a set of SAWs for a bit but I didn't get any flex out of them so went back to the stock bars and everything worked better. I am running a set of Bilstein shocks though, they're pretty good for the stock IFS. Truck is stable and corners just fine.

 

It could be the extrta weight of the V6 too over the 22RE you have.

My stock bars were already dialed in at about 14.50", and when coming to a stop, I would bob up & down.

Since going with the SAW's, it's like between night & day now.
No bobbing, and the ride is much better.

 

Adjusting the torsion bars is easy. Shoot some sort of bolt loosenging stuff on both ends of the bolt. Lift off the ground whichever side your adjusting and give 5-10 turns. Keep track of your wheel to fender measurement and also drive it around a couple of blocks after each adjustment to set the bars. If you adjust both sides the same amount of turns you should stay level.

 

True, true.