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Aisin hubs

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Old 03-06-2003, 06:05 AM
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Aisin hubs

ok guys check it out and tell me what i missed?

Move mouse over and click here ======> (o)
Old 03-06-2003, 06:20 AM
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How the hell did you get those for so cheap? I just saw a set go for about $90 last week on Ebay. Anyway, good find for you! Those should be perfect for your rig. All you will need to do is rebuild them and get the necessary gaskets - check for part numbers on Corey's website. Good luck!
Old 03-06-2003, 06:30 AM
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WOW!! Mine were $41 shipped and I thought that was a good deal. Clean 'em up and rebuild, they'll be good as new.
Old 03-06-2003, 06:38 AM
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43422-60010 Gasket - this is the gasket between the axle hub and the Aisin hub body.

43531-60010 Gasket - star gasket between the hub body and cover.

43532-60010 O-ring- located between the cover and dial to act as a seal to prevent water intrusion when submerged in deep water.

M6-1.0x16MM Stainless Steel bolts-bolts with the number 7 on them right?

#12 Washers- Stainless Steel washers-where do these go? between the aisin hub and the axle hub?

also what will i need to hold the hub on once i remove the cone washers? what kinda of paint should i use to paint it? and what kind of grease should i use and how do i apply it to the hub? im kinda confused about that. thanks guys.

Last edited by metal22lica; 03-06-2003 at 06:40 AM.
Old 03-06-2003, 07:16 AM
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Bolts with a #7 from Toyota aren't stainless. Just go to Lowes and get the equivalent. These need washers under them - #12's sound about right. These are the bolts that hold the hub dial to the hub body.

You will reuse the cone washers.

Paint: I used SEM trim black for the hub dial ring. It was about the same sheen. For the dial I used Autobody paint to match the color of my 4Runner. The choice is up to you.

I used a Valvoline synthetic axle grease. Don't use too much (ie pack grease in there)
Old 03-06-2003, 07:17 AM
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Wow, I am turning you into EBay.
You stole those from the guy

Great deal!
Looks like you have the part #s all here, but the bolts we discussed in a few other threads don't have the number "7" on them.
The factory bolts do, the ones I bought from Lowe's do not.

As for paint, there are a lot of brands to choose from.
I used Rustolem Enamel on mine.
Pick up some clear also to spray over them when they are done.

It also helps to spray the clear over them after you have scraped off the paint from the lettering if you want the lettering to show up as bare metal like they do from the factory.

I used Amsoil grease on mine when I tore them down and put them back together again.

Good luck on them.
Old 03-06-2003, 11:58 AM
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WooooW!! What a steal deal!!! Good find

I primed and painted mine with Krylon primer and paint.

The bolts from Lowe's has something like this on the bolt head " A2-70 THE" and made of stainless steel. Now the washers are #12 and M6. Both washers work, the only difference is that the #12 is a little wider than the M6. I chose the #12 due to wider coverage. These are available at Lowe's and don't even bother going to Home Depot because they don't carry any metric hardwares. Lowe's has a lot of stuffs pertaining to automotive hardware.

Bolts with a #7 from Toyota aren't stainless. Just go to Lowes and get the equivalent. These need washers under them - #12's sound about right. These are the bolts that hold the hub dial to the hub body.
Cebby has already given you this info.

I used Amsoil grease on mine when I tore them down and put them back together again.
I used the same grease too. Just lightly coat all moving parts.

Now have fun in your teardown and build-up. Don't forget to get a Torque wrench that reads between 5-80 ft lbs. You're gonna need this to put them back on. I torqued the bolt that goes on the end of axle shaft 13 ft. lbs. Torque the 6 nuts, washers and cone washers to 25 ft lbs. these are the nuts that holds hub body to the axle hub. Lastly torque the 6 stainless bolts that hold the dial in place to no more than 9 ft lbs. That's all the info you need. Again have fun.

Oh BTW, what color are you going to paint yours? Mine are yelllow and black.

Noel
Old 03-06-2003, 03:20 PM
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That's a great deal. I got one from my favorite yard for $20. I'll rebuild it and put it on, then rebuild my current one and it will be a trail spare.

You may choose to get new gaskets from Toyota. I use black RTV in a tube to make my own gaskets.
Old 03-06-2003, 09:54 PM
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i am not going to paint mine and leave them with that rusty/crusty/faded look. hehe...probably red and black. i am kinda nervous about installing them on the rig..it seems like everytime i try to mod it..i break something else. i am excited but the guy isnt going to ship them until monday i guess that will give me time to read up on the install/rebuild/buy parts ordeal. i should just be able to stroll up to a dealer and they will have the gaskets on hand right?
Old 03-07-2003, 04:08 AM
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Ya, the dealer should have the gaskets no problem. And don't sweat the install...it is really quite easy. The first side may take you 45 minutes or so, but the second side will probably only take you 20. Good luck!
Old 03-07-2003, 11:45 AM
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i thought i read somewhere that i should soak the parts in something..what do i soak them in? mineral spirits?
Old 03-07-2003, 04:04 PM
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Originally posted by metal22lica
i thought i read somewhere that i should soak the parts in something..what do i soak them in? mineral spirits?
That's what I did with mine. Then used a brass brush to scrub all the crud off of them.
Old 03-07-2003, 05:18 PM
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should i put the hub body in there also?
Old 03-07-2003, 07:01 PM
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Originally posted by metal22lica
should i put the hub body in there also?
Take it all apart and soak the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
Old 03-07-2003, 07:03 PM
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Originally posted by Cebby
kit-n-kaboodle.
can i get this at the yota dealership and if so do you have the part number for this?
Old 03-07-2003, 07:38 PM
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metal22lica,

There's a one gallon parts cleaner available at Advance Auto parts store for 9.99 and it is made by Gunk solder seal. It comes with a basket. You can soak your parts in there and don't forget to read the instructions. I soaked mine for two hours and used a parts cleaner brush to take all the gunk and old grease out. Be careful with this stuff and make sure to use it in a well ventilated space.

can i get this at the yota dealership and if so do you have the part number for this
Noel
Old 03-07-2003, 07:47 PM
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I would 2nd the parts washer in a can.. But if you don't paln on buying new o-rings, remove them or you will be.. another trick is to leave the accorn nuts on a few threads and give the ADD plates a whack on the side right where the stud is.. this will normaly remove the cone washers..

PS, let us know what he nails you on for S/H.... a good deal can stink if he hits you $40!!
Old 03-07-2003, 08:06 PM
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Originally posted by firefyter-emt
another trick is to leave the accorn nuts on a few threads and give the ADD plates a whack on the side right where the stud is.. this will normaly remove the cone washers..
Use a brass drift when you're about to whack the side of the stud, or put the tip of that brass drift against the tip of the stud and hit it like you mean it. You will see them cone washers break loose. Another technique is to get two 3 inch 12MM bolts and thread them to where the threaded part of that ADD and screw them both in one at a time and you will see the ADD move out. These two 12 bolts will act as a puller. Have fun cleaning the old gasket out that is on the axle hub. Get a scraper and a fine sand paper to clean the mating surface. Don't forget to cover the inside of axle hub with rags when sanding the surface to prevent contamination from sanding. Have fun!!!!

Noel
Old 03-08-2003, 05:20 AM
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Originally posted by 4x4CPOSEADOG
Use a brass drift when you're about to whack the side of the stud, or put the tip of that brass drift against the tip of the stud and hit it like you mean it. You will see them cone washers break loose. Another technique is to get two 3 inch 12MM bolts and thread them to where the threaded part of that ADD and screw them both in one at a time and you will see the ADD move out. These two 12 bolts will act as a puller. Have fun cleaning the old gasket out that is on the axle hub. Get a scraper and a fine sand paper to clean the mating surface. Don't forget to cover the inside of axle hub with rags when sanding the surface to prevent contamination from sanding. Have fun!!!!

Noel
Someone on here recommended whacking the end of the stud with a hammer. Since the threads don't run the whole way out to the end, you can whack the sutds to free the cone washers. You really have to miss to booger up the threads.
Old 03-08-2003, 05:38 AM
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If you just whack the side of the add hub with a hammer the cone washers fly out, but leave the nuts on a little so they dont disappear over the other side of the garage! Doesnt damage the hubs! I did it and it worked perfectly!


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