flyAddict

Just got my rig checked out at my garage today b/c of camping trip planned for potter county, god's country, PA this weekend. Nothing looked bad in the driveshaft, motor mounts, slip yokes/u-joint, etc. However they told me the clutch was going to need to be replaced soon. (not too surprising to me since it's got 133k miles on it).

My questions are >>
1) Recommendations on a new clutch for a daily driver see a good amount of trail use during the summer, and runs the beach several times in the fall and spring.
2) Does it seem like a really bad idea to go camping in the remote mountains of northern pa, where I'm miles from parts or mechanics, with a near end of life clutch. While the mechanic didn't advise against me going camping this weekend, he told me to use 4wheel as much as possible and avoid heavy wear as much as possible. How worn is it, well, while holding the break with a little bit of gas you can let the clutch out w/o stalling.

Thanks all.

jimbo74

is there slipping? how can the mechanic tell your clutch is bad?

if the clutch is bad and you are wheeling then you might be up a creek without a paddle......

i have a centerforce dual friction clutch... its awesome my truck is a 4x2 with an open diff, and i have halted movement offroading, but always been able to drive out under my power

flyAddict

Yes there is slipping, enough not to stall out in first with the break peddle down and clutch out well past it's normal friction point.

That's what I was looking at and the way I was leaning.

So by worn clutch + wheelin = up a creek. Do you mean slippy clutch make driving off road in slippy or rocky situations next to impossible? or the clutch might wear completly down and I'll be going no where?

I will have a buddy there, and I could pull myself along 85 feet at time (as long as there are decent anchors for the winch)

jimbo74

yes this is what i mean, offorading puts way mroe stress on a clutch then regular city driving and if you go offroad and there is already slipping present, you might find that you completely destroy a clutch.....

flyAddict

Quote from the mechanic on invoice:
"...Take car on extensive road test, experience 1) clutch slipping and chatter, 2) clutch bearing noise. 3) rear bumper hook noise [aka shackle clap as i call it] Check steering, suspension, axles, universal joints, motor mounts and general check of possible problems, find no major problems except that clutch is needed. Reroadtest with customer-still no noise..."

Of course I could get the noise (occasional thud felt through accelerator) that had me worried in the first place. Anyway does anyone know a good way I can test to see how bad the clutch is....really want to go on this trip but so far it's looking like a bad idea until I can get a new clutch.

flyAddict

Anyone have any other recommendations on clutch options?

One's i'm considering...(how do they compare?)

Centerforce Dual Friction
Centerforce II
TRD
any other's I should consider.

jimbo74

the df is the best of what you posted, however if you are not a heavy duty offroader and dont drive crazy like me, it probably isnt needed....

Flamedx4

Usually I would say if it isn't slipping don't worry (for this one trip at least.) I've worn out a few clutches and they always start slipping a bit, then more and more - takes months before it finally gets worse enough to bug me enough to fix it. Never had a sudden failure. (Doesn't mean it can't happen...)

Is it slipping in your normal driving? Do you have any trouble pulling away from a stop or getting slippage when shifting gears the normal way? If not, you *should* be just fine (for this one trip at least) - just don't take it on the trails at Moab.... Unless you really start wheelin on the rocks or in the sand etc and grossly overheat it a clutch doesn't usually detonate, it just slips more and more and more each day. usually... Another thing to consider is that a really worn clutch will add more heat to the flywheel surface - replacing early may save more money.

Try to keep the clutch engaged - don't ride the clutch pedal.
If you have to climb steep hills pick your gear early and leave it in that gear if you can, maybe use a lower gear and go slower so you don't have to play the clutch.
Try to shift smoothly - don't bang the next gear and dump the clutch.
Don't tow anything.

Of course, if there is time (and money) BEFORE the trip to replace it first that would be better.

naksukow

RPS, ACT, Clutch Masters, South Bend, SPEC, Unorthodox....

TRD is just a rebranded clutch.

jimbo74

flamed, he said there is slipping, enough to let the clutch out in gear without stalling!

naksukow

As far as drivability though....the stock clutch did last 133k miles....I'd would go with another stocker.

Flamedx4

yeah, saw that. Obviously needs a new clutch!
Was just wondering if he's merely torture testing or if it slips in "real" driving.

flyAddict

This is my first clutch on my first manual vehicle so I'm not sure. It is slipping in a torture test, haven't really noticed slipping in normal driving, but now that's it's been brought to my attention, it does seems to be slipping a bit in normal driving. Would it slip more in lower or higher gears or consistently through out.

I think i'm going to have a mechanic install the new clutch . I just moved and have WAY too many other things to do with my time than spend it a weekend on putting in a new clutch. Although I would like the experience so I know how it all works... mechanical things are tough to fully understand until you take it apart and put it back together.

flyAddict

in clutch shopping what do I need? centerforce kit comes with pressure plate and disc only.... I know I need new throw out bearings...Might also need new pilot bearing. Is there anything better than stock for these?

naksukow

Get all new toyota hardware and bearings. Don't reuse the old bolts. You should ether replace the flywheel or get it resurfaced.

jimbo74

i know that centerforce sells a performance throwout bearing....

naksukow

If you give me your email, I will send you the pdf from the service manual.

Flamedx4

Easy test is to bang the shift into second with foot heavy on the gas and dump the clutch, like you are trying to chirp the tires. It should not slip. If it's about gone it will slip. My '90 slips like this (and only like that, never slips if I drive "normally") for over a year now - one of these days I'll around to replacing it. Once had a car that would slip any time I shifted harshly - after a good year it started getting worse and finally would slip on hills even without touching the clutch pedal. No failures, just worse slippage...

Re the flywheel. Inspect carefully, you are looking for discoloration, crazing, cracks, and you must be certain it is perfectly flat. If it's good it's good, no need to resurface or replace. If there's any question at all resurface it or replace it if it's too far gone. On my '85 I replaced it at 140k just because I had it apart anyway for other things, the friction material was on its last mile - like one micron thick!, but the flywheel was perfect. (good ol' toyota!) So I did nothing with the flywheel - no problems with it 100k later.

flyAddict

for all of those [like me] first time manual owners, how can you tell when it slips....feel, sound, thud when it catches, etc.?? Not sure what I'm looking for here. I think the thud I was feeling before (and now) might have been it catching after slipping.

phorunninduke

When it your truck smells funny, it takes 6000rpm to start rolling, AND it takes you the whole length of a traffic light to get through the intersection it is time for a new clutch. - Anything before that point is like changing brake pads when there is still some metal left on the backing.



edit: oh yeah smoke is a dead givaway too.