97' 4Runner bad warm hesitation
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97' 4Runner bad warm hesitation
97 3.4 swapped into a 90 toyota pickup. My issue is that coming from a stop when I go to give it gas truck will stumble/hesitate on take off untill I get up over about 1000rpm. Truck runs fine when driving just a bad hesitation on take off. Only does it when it's warm and it's very intermittent. Sometimes I'll shut it off to go to the store come back out and start it up and it will be fine. What I've done so far(cleaned TB and iac valve,cleaned maf,new fuel filter,new plugs and wires, new downstream o2 sensor,new cts) tested maf and seems to test fine from what I can understand from the Chiltons book. Tps seems to test fine. Only codes I have is that it's running lean and the cam position sensor. Tested that and it tested good when cold but when warm it tested at about 1370 ohms. Looking for ideas.
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When you say "stumble/hesitate", do the RPMs jump up and down when the pedal is press a certain distance or does it take a bit for the car to speed up? Have you checked the throttle cable that runs from the throttle body to the transmission? Does it have any excess slack when you try to lift it from the actuator lever that opens/closes the flap?
If you are running lean it could be a bad/dirty injector or possibley a bad fuel pump
If you are running lean it could be a bad/dirty injector or possibley a bad fuel pump
#3
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Cam sensor is still within specs .
That is not to say you might have a corroded pigtail
Even a loose fuse in the block could be your issue
Make sure the ECM grounds are good it should be on the left side of the intake manifold .
I have had to run them direct to the battery to clear up some issues.
ECM not getting wet at all??
That is not to say you might have a corroded pigtail
Even a loose fuse in the block could be your issue
Make sure the ECM grounds are good it should be on the left side of the intake manifold .
I have had to run them direct to the battery to clear up some issues.
ECM not getting wet at all??
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When you say "stumble/hesitate", do the RPMs jump up and down when the pedal is press a certain distance or does it take a bit for the car to speed up? Have you checked the throttle cable that runs from the throttle body to the transmission? Does it have any excess slack when you try to lift it from the actuator lever that opens/closes the flap?
If you are running lean it could be a bad/dirty injector or possibley a bad fuel pump
If you are running lean it could be a bad/dirty injector or possibley a bad fuel pump
Last edited by scott90; 10-22-2015 at 03:33 PM.
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Cam sensor is still within specs .
That is not to say you might have a corroded pigtail
Even a loose fuse in the block could be your issue
Make sure the ECM grounds are good it should be on the left side of the intake manifold .
I have had to run them direct to the battery to clear up some issues.
ECM not getting wet at all??
That is not to say you might have a corroded pigtail
Even a loose fuse in the block could be your issue
Make sure the ECM grounds are good it should be on the left side of the intake manifold .
I have had to run them direct to the battery to clear up some issues.
ECM not getting wet at all??
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I tested the tps again and vta-e2 came out to 3.2 idl-e2 was 0.49 no matter what thickness
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Last edited by scott90; 10-23-2015 at 04:50 PM.
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It's been done for about 3 weeks now and has done it since I finished it. Shouldn't be a wiring issue I had the wiring done by Toy only swaps so it was pretty much plug and play
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Ah, good to know. You need to call them for sure. They owe you some tech support since it's not running properly. Do you know the motor ran well before you installed it? You sure you don't have a big ol vacuum leak? Cam timing could be off a tooth or two too. Done the timing belt recently?
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Sounds like it's starting to fault in closed loop, so start with those sensors. Cam and crank sensors (make sure your cam sensor is even plugged in.... done that before), front o2 sensor, maf. Make sure your fuel pressure regulator is plugged in properly too.
Is the obd2 hooked up? Codes?
Is the obd2 hooked up? Codes?
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Sounds like it's starting to fault in closed loop, so start with those sensors. Cam and crank sensors (make sure your cam sensor is even plugged in.... done that before), front o2 sensor, maf. Make sure your fuel pressure regulator is plugged in properly too.
Is the obd2 hooked up? Codes?
Is the obd2 hooked up? Codes?
#17
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First off- I have changed a bad crank sensor that measured out perfectly in spec. You have actually taken the timing cover off, put the crank at TDC, and saw the cam marks lined up? I mean with your eyes, not a timing light.... The ECU can account for retarded or advanced timing by adjusting spark timing, so timing light doesn't tell the whole story. If you got a camshaft position sensor it's either a bad sensor, or out of time. Or the cam sensor isnt' even plugged in (done that too)
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First off- I have changed a bad crank sensor that measured out perfectly in spec. You have actually taken the timing cover off, put the crank at TDC, and saw the cam marks lined up? I mean with your eyes, not a timing light.... The ECU can account for retarded or advanced timing by adjusting spark timing, so timing light doesn't tell the whole story. If you got a camshaft position sensor it's either a bad sensor, or out of time. Or the cam sensor isnt' even plugged in (done that too)
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