That was why I mentioned a compression check but I don't think we've made it that far yet...he hasn't even burped it. And, if the heads were warped, there would likely be multiple breeches in the sealing surfaces causing a milkshake, oil in water, white smoke, low compression, or any combination of the these.

Let's start with the easy stuff...BURP IT.

 

Radiator cap not holding pressure?

 

Radiator cap is new. Heads were not warped. There is no coolant in oil or exhaust. I have burped it before i changed the lower hose.

 

And, the heads were pressure tested at the machine shop too?

Now, burp it again after changing the hose with the fan on high and the heater on hot and the nose uphill.

 

When you bleed the coolant system you need to turn the heat on full blast. This post makes it sound like there is still an air bubble.

 

Whats the ideal height front should be when burping? I have it up about 8 inches. Thanks for all the help.

 

You just want the radiator neck to be the highest point in the system.

 

So i burped all the air out. Parked on steep slope with radiator the highest point. Now it will overheat unless i have heater on full blast. Ive searched and not been able to find anything similar. So is a compression test my only other option?

 

Just to confirm...you elevated the front end, removed the radiator cap, and ran the engine up to operating temp with the heater on full blast?

Remember the thermostat has to open and it can take a while for all the air behind it to make it's way through the bypass hole you drilled (hot air won't open it). Once it's open you want to continue to run the engine with the heater blasting for a minute or so.

Not second guessing you, just want to be certain you got all the air out. It can be a PITA sometimes and I'd hate to see you tear back into the motor for nothing. You never mentioned what brand thermostat you are using either...did you test it before you installed it?

 

I ran it for a good 20 minutes and temp gauge was at normal temp for quite a while. No air bubbles came out for at least 5 minutes before i put cap back on. The thermostat is not oem and i did not test it. I guess i should replace it for the third time lol. Maybe i will just gut it and see if that works?

 

Don't gut the thermostat...test the one you have or do what ya shoulda done in the first place and spend the whopping $15 on OEM from Toyota.

Sorry if I missed this, but what did you replace the radiator with? New/used? OEM/not?

 

New radiator, not oem but its a good unit. I will try the oem stat first. Thank you.

 

At this point I would even test the OEM unit before installing it. Quick and easy to do.

Edit - don't remember if I mentioned this or not but it's critical that the air bypass (hole or jiggle valve) is on top. Otherwise it will take forever to get all the air out.

 

enapa- Can you post some pics of the front of your truck(the grill) and then pop the hood and shoot some pics of the new radiator and the shroud...the upper hose area...and sneak under the truck and shoot the lower hose (with flash). Kinda points to the radiator but I can't put my finger on it...

 

I dont have a way to post pics. What is it that you are thinking about radiator?

 

Also im picking up thermostat from dealer on monday. Its an hour away so dont make it there too often.

 

did you check for a melted catalytic converter ?

or mud filled muffler

plugged exhaist will do this

 

Dustrider i have checked and the exhaust is looking good. Im sitting at the dealer with my 06 corolla getting the computer recall taken care of. I have to say the oem tstat is waaaaaay different. Different shape and much bulkier. Im hoping this solves my issue. Wont be able to change it until tonight, wish me luck lol

 

Well the oem tstat, tested, didnt change anything. Will overheat at idle now. Returns to normal temp with heater on full blast. Guess my only option is to run a gutted tstat.

 

Even if that does work, you're just masking a problem.