I fixed his link too...

Here is the link he was trying to post

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/revie...lift/index.htm

I see what you mean. So the question I have is just how much does it take to clear. Is is easily remedied with some rim spacers? Is there just no way it will clear.? I apologize for this. I straight up forgot to make a point to check on stock rims. I guess you get so used to seeing aftermarkets it just sort of becomes normal to you.

If you can post some pics it would be very helpful. If you can't make it work don't worry, e-mail me and I'll take care of ya'.

Frank

This is my experience on installation on a 92 toy that had torsions cranked 1-1-1/2" and rear 1-1/2 shakle kit. After installing, and bars still cranked, absolutly no suspension travel. While turning down the torsion bolt(which I wanted to do after the install) the bolt broke and the torsion bolt went through my floor on my cab when it let loose . Found a spare bolt from an earlier scraped parts truck and got the Tbar's turned down. The ride is great now.

My tires are way out of alignment now. Also I had on aftermaket rims during the install, but run my stock steel rims during winter....Going to install a stock steel wheel tomorrow and see if it rubs.



On another note: Is it easier to adjust the torsion height bolt with the wheels on the ground or putting a jack under the crossmember and letting the A-arms drop down?

Use a jack under the crossmember, that will take some of the load off of the bolts before you turn them. Just like the kid in this picture: http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/torsion/index.htm

Don't get me wrong Frank, I am not complaining at all. As a worker of metal products myself, they are a fine piece of work indeed, and do plan on making it all work out.

As far as what I did, I did the same thing as what 86 Yota's did a couple replys up. I was going to put in my swayaway torsion bars since the whole thing was apart anyway. I was only working the passenger side when the bolt snapped off on me. Glad it happened in the driveway, cause it snapped like nothing with the truck jacked up and a small socket wrench. I did have it set down befor I started the torsion bars to see how it looked to make sure I did not forget anything and the tire rub was there. Also the alingment was way off but that was expected. With the torsion bars still half cranked it was toeing in. I mean that in that the wheel at the ground was farther under the truck than the top. When the torsion bar is lowered all the way down the toe will correct it self I am assuming, but the rub would only get worse due to the wheel is not going to get anywider from lowering the torsion bars. From what I have read, you need atleast a 3.75 or less backspacing rim to do a knuckle joint/ Ball joint lift. I also failed to realize this, and I do recall reading that from when I first purchased my truck stock and looking to lift it. I believe a rim extension will do the trick, Not positive yet but pretty sure by the looks of things and from what I have read. Or just get the new rims, tires and give myself something else to do. That is cut out the fenders to make 33's fit nice. No dont say body lift, Not a fan of body lifting.

As far as cranking the torsion bars go, Lifting the front end works great for lifting the truck, but how about lowering? Should you take off the tire to lessen the weight from the bolt? or just keep it on the ground a bit? Or are my bolts really that bad off? I am replacing them with new ones, but I dont care to crack another hole in the floor boards on the driver side.

Adrian has 4" BS wheels AFAIK, and he has reported no problems...

Balljoint install thread

Yeah, 4" BS Eaton wheels. No issues at all.

Use penetrant on the adjustors if you have never messed with them before. I snapped both of mine when I swapp t-bars, but heavy anti-seize application made the later adjusting fine.

Thanks for linking that thread. I got these before the group buy and have them installed. Guess not too many people check out the other board here.

I have done minor adjusting of the t-bars both up and down without jacking, but my adjustment bolts are in very good shape with a ton of grease on them. It is all about thread lubrication going down because you are just lowering the weight down, not trying to raise it. When adjusting down, and your threads are dirty, dry or rusted, jacking the front will take some of the force off of the threads and make them less likely to gall-up on you and ruin or break your bolts.

Not trying to argue with ya if your having rub or not, Trying to help. Letting you know about it if you have not noticed or looked if you have stock 4.5 back spaced rims. Someone may think every thing is fine and then rip a tire. If ya don't have rub then great, proud of ya, just want everyone to make sure.

Put my spacers in yesterday, the side that i uncranked the t-bars needs an alignment done, the side that i didnt uncrank looks fine.

Thanks Frank and everyone that made this group buy possible

I feel your pain on the bolt. I broke mine too way back when. They get loaded with water and dirt over the years. Sometimes, no amount lubricant will work. With new and greased bolts (well new as in a few years old), I can adjust them fine with the truck on the ground. I just make sure to clean exposed thread really well. I think the grease helps to keep water, etc.. out too. Otherwise, if you jack up the truck when turning the adjusting nuts you're fine. There's no need to remove a wheel since the bumpstop is holding the load when suspended.

I'm not under the impression you're complaining at all. Which, by the way, is Ok to do. I just don't want anyone to feel mislead. I want this work for you. Also, from a purely problem solving standpoint, I want to understand the problem as best I can.

All the other knuckle spacer lifts are 4" and they'll rub big time cause the put the a-arm over the bulged part of the tire. It is sounding like 4" backspacing will work.

Do you know if say a .25" rim spacer would clear?

I'm not sure if you've ever sat and watched an alignment up close, but you can get pretty close to correct with just your eyes. If you feel comfortable, you can adust the camber and toe in just to get it closer. Then the shop can dial it in.

Thanks,

Frank

This is good advice. I was looking at the geometry and basically if you are going to have a rub I think it will be when the tires are drooping. As the tires compress upper ball joint moves away from the a-arm thus increasing clearance. This is very easy to check cause all you have to do is jack up the front and look for contact.

Frank

a .25 would still be very tight, a .5 toa .75 is the smallest I would recomend to anyone looking to do a spacer. That is to solve this problem. I decided just to do new rims in that it will cost about the same, and look cool, lol. The stock rims I have look good painted black, but change is good.

I appreciate ya looking out, good personal trait to have, and it doesnt hurt in buisness either. I was thinking the same on the alingment. I know I can get it closer than it is now.

Just curious, how did you make them? The spacers that is. I dont do much at all with aluminuminumimmm. (I knew I would not get it right, so make it funny) I know it cuts like crap due to the sticky nature of the metal, and burning it makes it warp. If you could PM me about it I would appreciate it. Just curious is all, not going to steal your buisness.

There is no arguing to do. I have no rubbing at all. I checked, cycled, check cycled and all is well. As for the congratulations, are we here to argue perceptual differences or what? I, on my truck, in this reality under my conditions do not have rubbing. That may or may not have any impact on anyone elses experience.

It's all good, sent you a PM.

To summarize, it is sounding like I need to add a note to the website that stock rims rub, you need 4" of backspacing or less.

What size tires are you running? The reason I ask is that it turns out if you run say 33" pizza cutters (33X9.5's), even the 4" lifts don't rub. It would be helpful to add that say this tire and stock work, that tire and stock don't.

I appreciate you bringing this problem into light. What's important I think is that the customer understands what they are getting into. When I bought my 4" lift, I found out the hard way my rims wouldn't work. With this info I can make sure each person knows their set up will work or not.

Frank

I just installed the other spacers I ordered for my friend on his 89 P.U. We took the oringinal spare(desert dueller on steel wheel, 235 75 15) put it on to see if it will rub, and it did not rub (about 3/4" gap). His T-bars weren't touched before or after the install(still stock height). Haven't had a chance to drive it since were still working on the rear new spring and shackles.

so what is the word on the Ball Joint spacers and stock yota rims???? who has them installed with stock rims... Take a pic of it also... NOW I am worried...

Did you NOT read my last post?

That was with a 235/75R15....

opps... I should be more specific on my specs: the wheel is the stock Alum split 4 spoke rims and 31x10.5R15.


I know a 235 is equivlanet to a 29x9.00R15... or so... I am 2" taller and 1.5" wider... also I plan on running a 33x10.5R15...