keep it posted

 

i picked mine up from dealer today they charged me 180 and they are sure its rear actuator then thrives wanted charge me 2900 to repair it they did reduce that to 2350 but still too damn much.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...40&catalogid=0

they sell part for 761.00 free shipping best deal around here cali bay area was 950.00 and friend in my 4wd club who has shop will R&R part for about 300.00 so i think i am doing ok now and hope to be out on trails again soon.
im bummed too i missed this years snow run my truck does great in snow with eveything locked up

 

Tonyo- sorry to hear the bad news. Sounds like you have a pretty solid plan though. Still no word back from my dealer though on the T-case actuator. Its been three whole days- not a word. I really hope this means that they put in the t-case actuator and that didn't solve the problem...... Who knows. At this point, I just want my truck to fixed.

I'll try to call them tomorrow and keep everyone posted.

 

Spoke to the dealer today- after they split the t-case apparently they found that one of the forks needed to be replaced. That will take a few days to get the part in.

 

so did they say its not the actuator? and its only this fork i sure hope thats not case for me since i cant return the part

 

I don't know if they will know until they get the part and reassemble the entire t-case. I really hope its just the fork, but I am thinking maybe the fork broke/was damaged and that placed additional strain on the actuator and burned it out?

 

i plan on replacing the front diff sensor as i am having the same problem. my brother and i have basically worked it back to the logic that this sensor is the one that tells the computer where the system is at and if malfunctioning would cause this problem.

we manually got the truck out of 4WD like many of you and if you dont have time to fix it consider unplugging 4WD computer behind drivers kick panel once disengaged. you should be able to manually shift into 4WD without locking front diff and at least have some capability. the switch will not function.

i am very glad there are people willing to spend the time to explain processes like this on yototech. it saves many people much money and head ache.

this write up has re confirmed our thoughts.
thanks for the great write up guys!!

i will let you know if it fixes my problem to help confirm the repair.

 

Can any of you tell me exactly where the ADD relay is? Maybe a pic. I must've spent an hour trying to track it down. Thanks

Joe

 

ender81 have you got your truck back is there any update?

I am Happy to say i got rear actuator installed my tcase for very good deal not even close to what any dealer would charge BUT i am very sad to say i still have same problem the lights are blinking I do not have control to change 4wd modes before it was stuck in 4wd now it is 2wd but still can’t change it.
So the Hayward Ca dealer was wrong it’s not the rear actuator and I changed the front already so it’s not that I also changed one of the sensor switches and tested the other.
I read many have tried used ECU and far as I know it was never the fix so I didn’t think mine was bad but now I think that’s what I am going to try next if I can get a hold of one today if not it’s going to have to be put on hold tomorrow I am going Japan for 10 day vacation

 

Tonyo- I picked my truck up on Saturday. Unfortunately for me it was the T-case actuator assembly. When the dealer split the t-case they couldn't get one of the forks off of the shaft on the actuator. They said they have never had one seized so bad. They had to cut it off with a torch. They replaced the T-case actuator, the fork, and various springs when they were in there. Grand total was $1677.96. The actuator was the most expensive part at ~$1000.

While they had it I had them do the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, idler, tensioner, crankshaft seals, cam shaft seals and replace the front and real differential oil with synthetic.

Expensive trip, but the truck is running great now. Shifts from 2WD to 4WD and back are very quick.

Let me know if you are interested in buying the 4WD ECU I picked up. Its brand new- I paid $280 to have it rushed. I'd be willing let it go for around $200 including shipping. Let me know.

 

I am probably interested in your ECU do you have a part number for it?

 

Oh and congratulations on getting yours back and working very cool

 

Thanks. The part number for the 4WD ECU is 89533-35170. This is for 2001-2002s.

Remove the kick panel near the left side of the pedals and double check that its the same one. I am pretty sure 1999-2000s used part number 89533-35150.

 

i wont be back untill the 19th i will get back with you then

 

i've would done the same thing...

 

Hello Everyone,

I also have a 99 4Runner Limited and Yes stuck in 4WD. I will describe where I am in the repair process, please help as I want to make sure I dont do more harm than good.
1. I removed the skid plate
2. I see a wire that has a grey plastic end that attaches to what looks like a nut, then attaches to what I think is the Front actuator.
3. If this in fact the front diff sensor -84222-35070 then how do I take if off?
1) I have heard that some of you used a 1/2'' drive ratchet with a 27mm socket but if that is the case how did you removed the wire? Does the wire just snap on the nut?
2) Is there a special open ended wrench I am suppose to use and if so what size?
Note: I have tired to attach the picture of what I think is the front diff sensor.

The image is too large to embed in my post so here's the link:
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7...diffsensor.jpg

 

That looks like the front diff sensor/switch. You have to depress the tab on the grey cover to pull it off of the sensor. Then you should be able to loosen the sensor to remove it and test it.


Doug

 

Ok thanks Doug,

Sorry but I have to ask after removing the grey cover do I use a socket to remove the sensor ( the silver part that looks like a nut) or do I use a open wrench? If so what size I just moved and cant find my tools but Lowes is pretty close by.

 

Ok Guys,

I was able to remove the grey connector from the front diff sensor (84222-35070) and now off to Lowes to get a 1/2'' drive ratchet and a 27mm socket will keep you posted. Here is a link of what it looks like.

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5867/dscn5456.jpg

 

If that sensor/transfer switch checks out fine with a multimeter, then remove the transfer switches 1 at a time on the transfer case and check them in the same manner. It will most likely be one of the switches that is bad.