cackalak han

Not even a centimeter difference. Exactly the same. Also, 1ST GEN Sequoia and Tundra wheels are the same (which should look exactly like the Tacoma's, but I think there are a couple of different variations. They were all 16").

paynemw

So I have the 3 Spoke Split 16x7 in rims on my 2000 4runner SR5 4x4... I want to do a 2.5 - 3 inch suspension lift OME i think, and I want a wider stance, and if 5 1/4 is too much, then what BS would you recommend that would make my stance wider than the stock rims... im guessing i'll stick to a 16x7 or possibly a 16x8 steelie... what would you guys recommend... im thinking 32's or 33's for rubber

Swede

I'd say either 4" or 3.5" BS. The lower the number the wider the stance overall. Just remember that the further out you go the more you may have to trim the pinch weld area.

guitarplayer360

ya u need to remember that the lower the number, the more they are sticking out. go with 4". Then if you need to go out more use spacers.

John LTD

Does anyone know the backspacing for these wheels? I might get a set for my 4runner.

John LTD

Bump!

spam&rice_420

how about these, some one might know, Im too lazy to really check...

sdsurfer

bump bump...

hey folks, I have a question.

I want to buy some cragar steelies for my runner but they are 16x8 with 5.5 back spacing

will this fit? I am running 275s with 2.5 coil lift.

thanks

surfer

285000 miles!

Swede

Nope... way too much BS.

Datsayota

I'm planning to install some 35's on my 3rd gen and I was thinking of a wheel with 4" backspacing. I already have a Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift and I expect to run into clearance issues at the floor board area, but my question is in regard to clearance from tire to frame when turning at full lock.
According to Steve @ sonoran steel 3.5" Back spacing will clear the frame but the stock wheels with 4 5/8" will not.
I don't want a tire that sticks out too far so I was hoping 4" of BS with 35's would be enough - can anybody confirm this?

Swede

4" BS may still contact the frame. The type of tire you plan to use will also have an effect on frame clearance as well. An aggresive mud tire with sidelugs for example would likely contact the frame before a milder tread design tire like on an all-terrain tire. FYI with my set-up I rub the frame at full lock. My wheels are 17x9's with a 4.5" BS, and even after trimming the pinch weld area I still rub while under compression and turning, which is why I'm looking at the 5" Tuff Country lift.

Jason B

Ive always wanted to know this. The rims I have on my 3rd gen are
16x8 6-5 1/2 12mm offset 5 backspacing.

Compared to my limited split 3 spoke 16x7 wheels, how much more do you think these stick out over stock? Wondering.

jumm

97 tacoma 4x4 backspacing ?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have factory toyota 16x7 wheels with 4.5" backspacing on truck now. I can get another set of toyota factory wheels 16x7 with 5" backspacing cheap but will I have enough room to clear upper arm? Thanks for the answer!

Swede

That would depend on what your tire size is for starters.

4Tard

Never will understand why anyone wastes their time with these inconsistent backspacing measurements. Everyone has their own way of doing it and an 1/8" here or there is a massive margin of error.

EVERY OEM Toyota wheel has the offset cast into the back, generally in the open spaces around the hub. It's vastly easier to understand, but even if you insist, you can still convert offset to backspace very easily.

Most 16x7 and 17x7.5 Toyota truck wheels are +15mm. A few 17's from newer 4Runners are +30mm, which might result in a-arm rubbing.

Datsayota

Just thought I would report back on how this all worked out for me.
I found that with 35x12.50R15 General Grabbers (could be different for other tire types of the same size) I had to have 3.5" BS on the front in order to avoid contact with the frame a full lock. In fact it even rubs a little when the suspension drops all the way (moving the tire slightly inboard). As I suspected I do have rubbing/clearance issues at the outer edge of the floorboard area as well as the front bumper outer edge area. A little trimming of some of the plastics and a little work with a hammer made it drivable, but I still have some more work to do.

In the rear a 4.5" BS worked the best for me. Moving the tire in and getting it to tuck up inside the fender well. I do have rubbing/clearance issues to work out at the front and rear edges of the fender, there wold be big problems at the mudflap/rear bumper area but I already have a nice Savage Off-Road rear bumper which gives me enough clearance there as well.

ManyMods

I am really confused. I am about to pull the trigger on a set of 16x7.5 -10mm offset wheels. These are the FJ/Tacoma wheels with the beadlock styling ring. According to your collective research the backspacing for my 16" OEM wheels is 4-5/8".

Is backspacing the same as 'offset'? One wheel I am looking at has 15mm offset, and the other has 10mm offset. I get that the lower the number is the more they will stick out and I don't want them sticking out beyond the fender flares.

Please, someone help me understand all of this so I don't make a mistake. It's been quite a while since I have been on this forum, and I love my truck. Of course I would love to have a 2015 LTD but I just don't seem to have $42K right now. TIA

Peter

Swede

Read this... https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

The OEM wheel is +15mm offset. +offset means wheel centerline is towards the hub, while -offset means away from the hub.

In your case, +15-10 = +5mm offset. that means the wheel centerline is moved outwards (away from the hub) by 5mm. total increase in track width is 5+5mm = 10mm

I believe that to align with the upper edge of the "Limited" fender flare, you need to have 16x8 with 0mm offset wheels and using 285/75R16 tires.

btw, some wheels use the term ET for offset.

hth.

ManyMods

Thank you for your explanation, and thank you Swede for the article reference.

My dealer told me the offset on the OEM 16" wheels is 35mm which would mean there is almost a 1" difference in offset -- and as 4TARD said, some of the newer OEM wheels are 30mm offset and that might cause 'A Arm Rubbing'. Are my wheels in that category?

My truck is the last year of GEN3 (2002) and the Limited wheels were 16". I know, I am preaching to the quire here and I am not implying in any way that you do not know this. Heck, you guys know a heck of a lot more than I do -- I just want to be sure.

These are the wheels I want to install but I don't want to have a restriction in range of movement or have to use spacers -- been there done that. This is a lot of money for me to spend so I just want to be absolutely sure I won't have a problem.





TRD 16x7.5 -- 10mm Off Road Beadlock Rim wheel