sschaefer3

Welcome to BIG MONEY!

RTdawgs

dont get the bumper/winch yet. get some smaller coils and keep your HD for when you want a bumper/winch. my pennies...

NOTRUB

Has the truck been aligned yet? I know my cv's did not look all that great at first. Also I measure 37 3/4"from ground through center of wheel to the lip of wheel well.

Victor

You can put a plastic zip tie on either side of the stock clamp. 2nd gen 4runners do this too. The clamps suck and they spit out their grease. At least your grease looks clean and not water contaminated. By some of the grease that goes in that boot, figure out how to get it in there, and then zip tie. You can also get new clamps at the dealer or Carquest but I'd invest in the correct pliars if you do.

MLiebal

Hi Guys,
I have a torn boot now, which why I noticed this thread.
I put in the OME HD and got right at 1" of lift with the hd OME shocks. I can not imagine getting anywhere near 3.5".

Besides, the angle of the CV is not near 45 degrees. That last picture on the original post was with the wheels turned.

My angle is the same to slightly more then what was shown. I added 1.5" Cornbred spacers.

I had the grease leakage also and put on the hose clamp. Unfortunately being lazy (never pays) the excessive tab got bent and slit the boot which is now torn completely. Trim those hose clamps tabs!

How long should it take for a home mech to change a axle shaft.
Do you have to drop the lower pivot arm.

Any other things I should change (I am only doing one side right now) I have 130k mile on my 96 Ltd.

Thanks and good luck.

Mike

jx94148

When I look at pic #4 I see that the outer boot is folded up and rubbing its self pretty well. Do other guys have that?

Did you jack up the frame for that picture? It looks pretty crazy.

Skip the master pull line if you are going for weight up front. My M8000 winch was $604 including shipping. Last time I checked at Central 4WD they were $609 with free shipping.

Good luck getting it tweaked. I know you did a lot of research before picking your setup. It wasn't supposed to end up like this. Maybe OME changed their manufacture or something. Maybe the wrong springs were in your box. Stranger things have happened.

azrain

Nope, not even with the SAW's cranked up to 2 - 2 1/4 inches and no diff drop. Although the wheel is turned, I am looking at the angle of the CV joint in relation to the prop shaft and the differential, the fact that the wheel is turned has virtually nothing to do with relation to that angle. That inner CV is looking very scary. The fins all riding on each other on the outboard boot (all of them as evidenced by the fresh wear marks) is another bad sign of serious anglularity.

Quote:

Maybe the wrong springs were in your box. Stranger things have happened.

Happened to me with PP, could happen to anyone. Hope all works out for you there Tom.

Mike

RTdawgs

mine:

Mojo_Risin

AMEN!! I'm not sure why nobody is realizing that pic of the outer CV is with the wheels turned. Everyone's CV's look that bad when you have the steering wheel cranked all the way.

John

TDiddy

I'll try and get a pic with the wheels straight for comparison. The wheels were turned in the original pics, but they weren't cranked completely.

44Runner

Is there a reason your IFS looks more gay than most? Is it just due to the owner?

TDiddy

I just took another set of measurements. The DS is at 37 1/4", and the PS is at 38 1/4". Based on an avg. stock height from the ground to the bottom of the front fender of 34.5", I'm looking at 2.75 " on the DS and 3.75 " on the PS.

Yes, to make things even more exciting, I also have an issue with tilt. I was sure we got the rear coils on correctly, on their designated sides. ARB wants me to swap them anyway to see if that evens things out.

I'm guessing (or I should say hoping) that the truer measurement is on the driver side. If the rear drivers side is low, that will add lift to the front PS.

At any rate, 2.75" of lift is getting me in to the red zone of CV angles. I'll get clamps on there today and see what I can work out with Mike on either MD coils or SAW's.

TDiddy

I just want to say thanks to all that have contributed. There's alot of feedback for a post that's only around 13 hours old. I didn't sleep well last night because I couldn't stop thinking about this mess, but if I didn't have the help I'm getting from you guys I probably wouldn't have slept at all.



Now if we could start a "Bail Tom Out" fund, I could really get some Z's!

TDiddy

Talked to Mike earlier, he asked me to call ARB to see if they could do an exchange with me directly. I described the problem to Tim in ARB's tech group, and hs said WHOA.

Steve Schaefer is right, the 882's are only recommended by ARB is you have a bumper or winch on the front. With all the research I did before this, I never found anything that said something to that effect. I'm sure I'm not the first to try to use 882's on the front w/o a bumper/winch, but what else can I do. Right now it's a moot point, what's happening is bad and I gotta take care of it.

ARB did say that I'd need to work out an exchange with the dealer. No worries though, Mike said they may say that, and he assured me that we will be able to work something out.

jx94148

Sounds like a little bit of good news. Its still weird that one side is 1 inch higher than the other. I wonder what caused that.

TDiddy

Its probably coming from the difference in the rear coils, since the left rear is low, its making the right front high. ARB makes the rears side-specific...the DS coil is a bit longer than the PS, in order to compensate for the gas tank.

1 of 3 things must be happening:

1. I screwed up and put the DS coil on the PS and vice versa.

2. The springs were labeled incorrectly.

3. There's some difference in my rig and/or the coils that's causing it.

I'm 99% sure we got the coils where they should be. ARB even said that mis-labeling has happened from time to time. They want me to switch the coils and see if the problem goes away.

Not too too big of a deal, because the rear coils are easy to remove.

The only thing I'm worried about is this - let's say I get MD front coils from Mike to correct the issue with the fronts, and then I swap the rears and nothing happens or get worse. Then I'm back to adding trim packers, etc.

If I go with SAW's, I'll have adjustability. Its an expensive bonus, but I'll have to weigh it out. Steve Schaefer has said he had to crank his SAW's to two different heights to get an even lift. Maybe its something to do with the fact that the OME's are technically for the Prado, who knows.

Mad Chemist

Hey Tom,

Sorry to hear about the woes you're having with the lift! You can take some comfort in knowing that you'll be helping out alot of people down the road who will be trying to do this same lift (ie. myself, in a short while). The great thing about this board is that we learn from others problems/situations/mistakes/whatever, it just really sucks when you have to serve as the "example."

I would think that with the medium coils and diff spacers the CV problem would be solved, but I don't know about the tilt.

Good luck!

David

azrain

Tom, sounds like you're on the right track. Mikey, he's a good shiznit.

The SAW's are nice, but big bucks as compared to the OME. What you could do is put the OME's on, let everything settle out and have some spacers made (or use OME trimpackers). Spacers are pretty easy for someone with access to a lathe and a mill, guys like Cornfed, etc. If you can't find anyone to make 'em for you, give me a holler, I'll go whip some up over at the tool room.

Jeez, your experience sounds a bit like my follies with PP, just with better customer service...

Mike

TDiddy

Here's 2 pics with the wheels straight, also after the diff drop kit was installed:

Pass. side





Drivers side

sschaefer3

That is NOT good. Just get the SAW's you'll thank me in the end.