95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

3rd Gen clunking

Old Oct 16, 2005 | 07:26 PM
  #21  
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Control arm bushings maybe?? I have a 92 lexus sc300 that would make a clunking noise everytime I would go over bumps, control arm bushings are a fix for this problem, mine is actually getting new ones as we speak. It seems to be a problem in the older sc's. Could be the problem.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 09:04 AM
  #22  
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From: so.cal
Originally Posted by bflooks
mostly...after rolling back, even if a few inches, then slowly moving forward (even a foot), and then applying the brakes. no idea what it is. doesn't happen all the time. just every so often. i am thinking rear brakes (145k on original rears)?
i have a similiar CLUNK. sometimes going from P to D too(brakes applied). sounds like u-joints-but isn't, tranny linkage is 'loose'-but isn't the problem. it is not suspsenision related. :pat: when someone helps and i look underneath it NEVER makes the noise
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #23  
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check the alignment cams. you have to drop the skidplates to do this. my guess is either the driver front or passenger rear cam bolt is loose.

that's what my clunk and steering play was...
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 10:46 AM
  #24  
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From: Quincy, MA
Originally Posted by bamachem
check the alignment cams. you have to drop the skidplates to do this. my guess is either the driver front or passenger rear cam bolt is loose.

that's what my clunk and steering play was...
stupid question but do you have a pic of what your talking about? Cam bolt?
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:04 AM
  #25  
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i think i may have just found my problem. here are the pics. first 3 are of the suspect side. the last is of the "good" side.









this is a simple cv replacement issue, correct? there is a good amount of play where it meats the diff. i believe that is where it is leaking from.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:07 AM
  #26  
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that's a bad shaft seal in the diff.

easy to replace - once the cv is pulled. have fun.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:09 AM
  #27  
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worth replacing the whole shaft while i am in there? have 150k on them now. also, will need to drain and fill diff, right?
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:15 AM
  #28  
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not unless you have a torn boot or some serious play in a CV joint.

you will need to drain the diff (remove the fill plug first, then the drain plug), drop the lower ball joint from the spindle, pull the tire/wheel off, and then pop the CV out of the diff. after that, you use a puller to pull the seal out, then a large socket to set the new on in (about $12 for the new seal at the dealer). after that, reset the cv and make sure it "clicks" when fully inside the diff. after that, reattach the lower ball joint, put the tire/wheel back on, then refill the diff.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:19 AM
  #29  
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i appreciat the help. i just crawled under there because i was asked if it had in/out play, or just side to side play. well, it has both. about .5-1" of in/out play total. i was then told to see if it will click back in. it will not. it makes a metal to metal tap when i push it all the way back in. this is common, right?

also, and ideas how to get a frozen fill bolt out? i had tried to get it out once, and had no luck. that was a few days of pb blaster and all. an impact wrench perhaps?
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:22 AM
  #30  
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ahhhh, it's not seated?

that's why it has play. it's not seated fully, so it's wobbling around and has prob chewed up the seal.

try to snap it back in - it takes some time and patience and sometimes a few curse words. it might be ok if you get it snapped back in.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:25 AM
  #31  
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and this would just randomly happen? just decide to come unseated? that is odd, no?
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:27 AM
  #32  
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not randomly.

had any work done on the front lately? alignment?

maybe the c-clip broke ...
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:28 AM
  #33  
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i have done nothing except front brakes. no allignment or anything. been wheeling a little, but nothing at all intense.
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