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3rd Gen Brake Upgrade - No more warped rotors
#21
Originally Posted by socal98runner
Braided lines are good as long as you flush out the old fluid and go with DOT4 or better fluid.
YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS.
DOT5 fluid is not compatible with DOT3/4 systems. If you try to do this, you will have major headaches. Even draining all of your DOT3/4 fluid and replacing it with DOT5 is not a good idea.
~Mystickal
#22
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
Can this mod be carried out on a 2nd gen? IF the rotors btwn a 3rd gen and 2nd gen are interchangable as are the calipers then this mod WILL work for us...

#26
Basically, you're going to remove your stock calipers and rotors, grind down the inside half moon of metal near the caliper on the dust shield (about 1/16 - 1/8th of material).
inside half-moon? are you talking about the caliper mounting bracket?
inside half-moon? are you talking about the caliper mounting bracket?
#27
Originally Posted by justinh
Basically, you're going to remove your stock calipers and rotors, grind down the inside half moon of metal near the caliper on the dust shield (about 1/16 - 1/8th of material).
inside half-moon? are you talking about the caliper mounting bracket?
inside half-moon? are you talking about the caliper mounting bracket?
#28
Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
No, it is the dust shield.
another question that i have is, how does the pedal feel? did it get more firm with the additional pistons? i know that most people that do SAS's end up with a really mushy pedal because the calipers they swap (waggy or chevy) to have two large pistons.
#30
Damn, you have to tell me this 3 days after I get all new front brakes....
Do you ahve any clearance issues? B/C my seteelies are damn close as it is. I'd probably have to go back to the stockers (which I was planning on doing anyway)
Do you ahve any clearance issues? B/C my seteelies are damn close as it is. I'd probably have to go back to the stockers (which I was planning on doing anyway)
#31
Ok, here's the pics.
In advance, sorry I can't compare them because I don't have the old discs. Grab a ruler and see if they are near the measurements I have for the width of the disc.
Measurement

Shot of disc/caliper

Shot of caliper from backside. This is where you will need to trim the dust shield. (between the 2 19mm bolts that hold the caliper in place)
Shot of the OEM pads

Price - What I paid and what you might pay are going to be compeletly different. I got a deal because my buddy wanted to see if it worked, so he hooked me up. I paid for new pads and some shop time, but otherwise that's about it.
Search your local junkyard and see if you can find some 2000+ Tundra calipers. You will also want the OEM tundra brakeline that is attached to the caliper.
Now go WRENCH!!!!
In advance, sorry I can't compare them because I don't have the old discs. Grab a ruler and see if they are near the measurements I have for the width of the disc.
Measurement

Shot of disc/caliper

Shot of caliper from backside. This is where you will need to trim the dust shield. (between the 2 19mm bolts that hold the caliper in place)
Shot of the OEM pads

Price - What I paid and what you might pay are going to be compeletly different. I got a deal because my buddy wanted to see if it worked, so he hooked me up. I paid for new pads and some shop time, but otherwise that's about it.
Search your local junkyard and see if you can find some 2000+ Tundra calipers. You will also want the OEM tundra brakeline that is attached to the caliper.
Now go WRENCH!!!!
#32
Originally Posted by turboale
Damn, you have to tell me this 3 days after I get all new front brakes....
Do you ahve any clearance issues? B/C my seteelies are damn close as it is. I'd probably have to go back to the stockers (which I was planning on doing anyway)
Do you ahve any clearance issues? B/C my seteelies are damn close as it is. I'd probably have to go back to the stockers (which I was planning on doing anyway)I have 16" SR5 wheels on my 4WD, so there are no problems at all. I have no idea about steelies or otherwise. 15's WILL NOT FIT, you MUST upgrade to 16" alloys at the minimum. This I am sure of.
Pedal feel is about the same, braking is not. If I stand on my pedal, it feels like the rear end is going to come up off the ground. The truck want's to do a stoppie....
#34
Originally Posted by HaveBlue
They are the same rotors. The Tundra calipers have 6 pistons versus the 4Runner's 4.
A 6-piston caliper with stainless lines, high performace pads, and slotted rotors would be supreme. I have about 3/4ths of that setup. I have the slotted/drilled rotors, stainless braided lines, and EBC pads.
A 6-piston caliper with stainless lines, high performace pads, and slotted rotors would be supreme. I have about 3/4ths of that setup. I have the slotted/drilled rotors, stainless braided lines, and EBC pads.
And for the person(s) who want to do a rear disk conversion with the front disk/caliper, lemme burst your bubble: Front caliper dont accomodate the e-Brake, so it wont work..
#36
Originally Posted by Gangus2006
No sir! Tundras had 4-Piston front calipers
And for the person(s) who want to do a rear disk conversion with the front disk/caliper, lemme burst your bubble: Front caliper dont accomodate the e-Brake, so it wont work..
And for the person(s) who want to do a rear disk conversion with the front disk/caliper, lemme burst your bubble: Front caliper dont accomodate the e-Brake, so it wont work..
#37
They are still 4 piston, but the stopping force is greater due to a larger piston.
Also, the brake rotors are thicker and so they have more material to disapate heat with.
All this equates to better stopping power.
Also, the brake rotors are thicker and so they have more material to disapate heat with.
All this equates to better stopping power.
#38
Originally Posted by socal98runner
They are still 4 piston, but the stopping force is greater due to a larger piston.
Also, the brake rotors are thicker and so they have more material to disapate heat with.
All this equates to better stopping power.
Also, the brake rotors are thicker and so they have more material to disapate heat with.
All this equates to better stopping power.
#39
Originally Posted by Mystickal
I just want to clarify this point, as "DOT4 or better fluid" implies that you would be fine, maybe even better off putting DOT5 fluid in your brake system.
YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS.
DOT5 fluid is not compatible with DOT3/4 systems. If you try to do this, you will have major headaches. Even draining all of your DOT3/4 fluid and replacing it with DOT5 is not a good idea.
~Mystickal
YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS.
DOT5 fluid is not compatible with DOT3/4 systems. If you try to do this, you will have major headaches. Even draining all of your DOT3/4 fluid and replacing it with DOT5 is not a good idea.
~Mystickal
there are 2 different kinds of dot 5 fluids, one is compatible, another is not sorry im too lazy to look this up i am pretty intoxicated
#40
Originally Posted by socal98runner
Ok, here's the pics.
In advance, sorry I can't compare them because I don't have the old discs. Grab a ruler and see if they are near the measurements I have for the width of the disc.
Shot of the OEM pads

In advance, sorry I can't compare them because I don't have the old discs. Grab a ruler and see if they are near the measurements I have for the width of the disc.
Shot of the OEM pads





