I know it can be done with the 22re, but has anybody done it with the 3VZE? I think I remember that it would be similar to the 22re. I can't afford to try this out and have it screw something up, otherwise I wouldn't be asking.

 

my mechanic pried the cover off and made an adjustment to it when we ported the thing after putting on a K&N cone filter.
To answer the 'porting?!' question you're probable asking.. if you look at the thing there is a kind of "step-down and step-up" as you look through the casting from one side to the other. What we did was to file the step away so there is a smoother air flow through the thing (every little bit helps )
After this was done he said that the sensor needed to be reset to allow for the increased airflow(from the k&n not the porting). as I recall there is a potenteometer in there that is screw adjusted. He did his thing and sealed it up again. 16 mos later no problems at all. Hope this helps Aviator

 

I can't find the article I once saw over on 4x4Wire....

 

Here you go, Chris: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/afm/

For more info on your AFM, it's not a MAF you have, go here: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

Hope this helps.
G

 

Here's a link that will answer all your questions about making a MAS adjustment.

http://www.lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote19.htm

Enjoy. I still need to do this with mine since installing the K&N filter.

Yoto Master

 

Also look here for an illustrated version.

http://www.lcengineering.com/ProFuelInjection.htm

Yoto Master

 

I knew MAF didn't sound right. Thanks guys.

 

So, what are the advantages of running it a little lean/rich? i.e. better mileage, more power, etc.

 

Tightening the spring tension helped mine out. Read here

 

The problem is, I think mine runs a little rich already. By that, I mean the exhaust smells alot more "gasoline-ish" than usual vehicles. Is it possible that my ECU made adjustments for the mods I did on it's own? Would anything negative happen if I went ahead and adjusted the AFM even though it might be running a little rich?

 

Mine was running way rich, as evidenced by the black soot on the tailpipe. So, I tightened the spring tension to lean it out, and my MPG went up.

 

I leaned out mine a bit, I figure that since I'm at 5,000 ft above sea level, it might do some good.

 

So what is the final decision on what can happen to our pistons with the predetonation issue? I will do this mod especially being I only average 150 miles per tank of fuel running supreme. I have the FIPK & an altered exh. system that I should not explain in detail. I am running thirtyfives with fivetwentynine gearings front & rear. I need to do this mod but not if it will fry the pistons. Blue

 

I have decided to not adjust mine anymore until I get my O2 sensor meter installed. This will give me a visual on the operation of the O2 sensor while driving. BTW, I still have lots of soot on the exhaust, so I don't think it's running too lean.

 

If you pull a plug you can check the combustion that way.
Check out this plug chart:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...q/faqread2.asp

Basically look at the Normal, Too Hot and Carbon deposits as a guide.
Pull a plug now to get an idea of where you lie on the chart.

Normal: This is where you want it to be. This plug has been running at the correct temperature in a "healthy" engine. Operating in such a desirable environment results in deposits that will be light tan or gray in color with most grades of commercial gasoline. If LP Gas or natural gas has been used, the color will be almost brown.

Carbon Fouled: Basically, soft, sooty carbon deposits, have a dry, black appearance. If only one or two plugs in a set are fouled, it is a good practice to check for sticking valves, a cracked distributor cap, or bad secondary ignition wires. Fouling of the entire set might result from an incorrect heat range spark plug or an over-rich air/fuel mixture caused by a clogged air cleaner filter element, a sticking heat riser valve, or a faulty choke. Fuel injectors that malfunction can also lead to this condition.
Other causes include weak ignition system voltage or an inoperative pre-heating system (carburetor intake air) or poor cylinder compression.

Lean burn: This condition may cause misfiring at high engine RPM. Shiny deposits usually suggest that temperatures have suddenly increased during hard acceleration. As a result, normal metallic deposits do not have a chance to slough off the plug and they melt and form a conductive coating which causes the misfire. white or very light tan deposits, usually indicate the this condition.

When you figure out where you are then you can slowly lean out the AFM a little at a time until you finally have it dialed in. Once you get that nice rich brown color you have reached the optimal dial in for your engine.

 

I have the FIPK, the Car Sound hiflow cat, the 2.25" Exhaust and a turbo muffler. (It sounds GOOOD, and it almost sounds like it's got a cam at low idle...)

Even with a new O2 sensor (~1yr old) it's running rich - I think. (Black soot in the pipe, when I do a quick punch of the gas from idle, it spits out a very very small, yet visible, amount of black smoke.)

Would that be running rich? EDIT - nm - going to pull a few spark plugs to find out. (Thanks MTL!! )

So, would anyone here mess with their vane AFM if their engine had 246,000 miles IF it were running rich?

(I want to lean it out some, but with an engine as old as mine is the risk worth it?)

 

What do you mean a "visual on the operation of your O2 sensor?" Is this some form of smt-6 that shows your burn on a laptop?

 

Read this, it should explain the visual I was talking about:

http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/techinfo.htm