i attempted to fix the cv boots today with no success lol . i went to advance auto, they had cv clamps but they were the oem style and i do not have the tool to tighten those so i left with metal zip ties. wish i would have picked up the regular plastic ones. the metal ones will not work because they have too much play before they "catch" so i can not tighten them down enough , when ever they are tight they back out a bit. I am going to try regular zip ties tomorrow, if that does not work i guess i will get the cv clamps and find the tool.

 

did you do the diff. drop kit?

 

Dude, seriously...we told you not to use them for that very reason. Save yourself some time and money and get the proper clamps.

 

Save yourself the headache and just replace the CV axles. I had the exact same problem after I put my Sonoran Steel 1.2 on....both my CV's blew almost immediately. I screwed around for a week and tryed different things to save them....but I ended up ordering a set of Cardone's online and swapped both sides out in less than an hour. Old CV's will blow quick after a large amount of lift...
'

 

Oh ya....and if you do replace the CV's stay away from Autozone and Advanced Auto brands. Go for the Cardone's.....trust me.

 

advance auto did not have the clamps you have in your picture. if they did i would have gotten them. The cv clamps they had require the tool to tighten them. The metal zip ties i did get look almost exactly like the cv clamps you have. I would replace the cv's but the cv's in my car are not bad , just the boots leak. the oem clamps are loose enough that the boot spins around the shaft. I believe if i get a tight clamp on there , they will last for some time. I would rather "throw away" $10 on clamps trying to fix the problem easily if it saves me the headache of changing both the cv's out. If i had brand new cv's , they would still leak if the clamps were loose. I will see how it goes tonight, if i cant get them tightened down i wil order online the tool and cv clamps. thanks for the tips everyone

 

Putting clamps on them isn't going to fix the problem. They will just slip and the boots will continue leaking. Without changing both CV's, the only thing you could do is remove both shafts, breakdown them down, clean and repack the boots with grease, and reclamp them, then re-install them. I tried just clamping my boots again with them on the truck, the clamps lasted about a mile of driving, then blew again. I could have rebuilt my CV's, but didn't want to spend the time on it. It took me an hour to replace both shafts, and I spent $120....so those are your best options IMO.

 

Not true. It can change the toe setting slightly when bolted back together. I know this for fact as I can loosen and retighten if the steering wheel is slightly off to correct it. In fact, I have done it as recently as last week on my personal 4runner.

Its a minute difference, but it is there.

 

where you get $20 diff drop?

 

You should be able to get it for 29.99 + s/h from wheelers, toytec, wabfab, 4crawler, etc......

 

Hmmm, still it ain't much and plus If I got an alignment each time I had my front end apart i'd be in big debt, and if you actually wheel your alignment is going to be off at somepoint.

 

True. It was mainly just to point out that he should do it before he gets the alignment done.

 

Bump for pics!

I'm saving for the KM2s I need some incentive.

 

PM me for a used diff drop shipped in the Con US for $20. I don't need mine anymore. Been on my truck for about a year but my lift is pretty mild compared to most.

 

A lot of alignment shops offer lifetime alignments, costs more upfront but if you are anal about your alignment then its something to look into.

<3's my solid axle. =P

 

im about to use heavy duty dirt bike tires for my new boots ill let you know what happens. trying a new approach because ive replaced my cvs 4 times this year and im tired of it. with the lift i have even the longer boots with slack just tear wide open.

 

What kind of lift do you have? Which coil/shock combination?