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22RE Head Gasket. HURRY!!!!!

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Old 08-18-2005, 12:36 PM
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22RE Head Gasket. HURRY!!!!!

Hey Guys,

Im tackling the project of replacing my own head gasket on the 22RE with 139,000 miles. I have everything that is attached to the head detached in order to remove it( exhaust manifold, front idler pulley bracket, power steering bracket, air intake, all 11 head bolts(including the front bolt hidden under the distributor gear) distributor, and EGR tube). The head is on there really solid still. Any suggestions what i can do to get it off and continue the project because I need to repare it before school starts on Tuesday.

Thanks guys.

-Jeff
Old 08-18-2005, 01:38 PM
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Ground wires, fuel lines, wire harnesses (including oil pressure sender and knock sensor{I broke that one by not removing it $120} etc..

Here is a link from a 93 FSM for head removal. Along with the other things on thelist on the page look at step 8 on pg.5 it shows you where you can pry (just be gentle).http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf

Hope that helps.

I used that FSM link when removing mine, but left the entire intake assembly and fuel rail attached to make it easier to disassemble them on the bench.
Old 08-18-2005, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Yota1
Hey Guys,

Im tackling the project of replacing my own head gasket on the 22RE with 139,000 miles. I have everything that is attached to the head detached in order to remove it( exhaust manifold, front idler pulley bracket, power steering bracket, air intake, all 11 head bolts(including the front bolt hidden under the distributor gear) distributor, and EGR tube). The head is on there really solid still. Any suggestions what i can do to get it off and continue the project because I need to repare it before school starts on Tuesday.

Thanks guys.

-Jeff
So... it sounds like you're stripped down to the bare head and it won't budge. Here's what you do:

Grab a teflon/plastic/rubber mallet and give the head a couple of solid yet gentle whacks in various locations. (If you don't have one handy a chunk of wood will do to soften the blow from a metal hammer) Head gaskets are notorious for sticking.
Old 08-18-2005, 02:50 PM
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wait a minute... have you removed the rocker arm assembly yet? the ehad wont budge without removing the actually rocker arm assembly bolts first......
Old 08-18-2005, 03:56 PM
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Are the rocker arm bolts the same thing as the 10 head bolts that i have already removed?

-Jeff
Old 08-18-2005, 04:18 PM
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Yes, he means the head bolts. Try the mallet idea. I am just finishing up a head gasket job on my 93 22re right now...I know your pain. if you have any other questions while you are doing the job, feel free to PM me. Oh and be careful w/the small bolts that bolt the coolant hard line on the underside of the intake manifold. Get 2 new bolts, and do it. I broke off both of them and was forced to find another intake manifold.
Old 08-18-2005, 06:10 PM
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yep, a big dead blow mallet can ease up the death grip some of the more stubborn head gaskets have. hit it from the bottom and the sides, usually loosens up.
Old 08-18-2005, 06:38 PM
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Then once you do get it off be sure to run it by a local machine shop to have it planed (to completely clean and smooth the mating surface) and cleaned up and tested for cracks (magnafluxed) and "trueness" or what have you..., it's alot better than having to re-replace the head gasket just because you overlooked this step.
Old 08-18-2005, 09:53 PM
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How much does all that stuff cost, cuz im running on a high school students budget here. And is all of it that necessary?

-Jeff
Old 08-18-2005, 11:07 PM
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I paid $160 for the head to be cleaned, resurfaced, valve job, and new valve stem seals to be replaced. Oh and they painted it for me. I do know someone at he machine shop though. Make sure to get new head bolts. Yes, it is necessary, unless you'd like to do the job again....
Old 08-19-2005, 05:50 AM
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Did you get it off yet? Give us an update.
Old 08-19-2005, 09:00 AM
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"$160" for all of that, but it'll be cheaper for you just getting it cleaned and resurfaced.
Old 08-19-2005, 08:47 PM
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don't forget about the bolts holding it on infront of the timming chain. (and the timming chain and gear if you haven't already removed them)
Old 08-19-2005, 09:10 PM
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the shop i take my engine components to for machining charges me $35 for a cylinder head resurface. not too bad in my opinion, it's good insurance on an aluminum head engine like a 22R, especially if you blew a head gasket.
Old 08-20-2005, 11:22 AM
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Thanks guys for all the Info, and no i havent gotten the head off yet. Im waiting on a buddy to come down that actually knows what hes doing (unlike me). How much is a new set of head bolts?

-Jeff
Old 08-20-2005, 07:21 PM
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i think you can get them from engnbldr for like $30. if they're in good shape, you can probably reuse them.
Old 08-20-2005, 10:20 PM
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So these type of bolts arent the stretch type of bolt and I can reuse them if they are in good shape? People are telling me different things about the head bolts. Somebody please clerify.

-Jeff
Old 08-21-2005, 03:57 AM
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I think they stretch. Get new bolts, and follow the proper torquing procedure when reinstalling the head. I used the old bolts the first time I had the head off a 22re and I had problems later on.

You've got the timing chain cover and tc off, right?
Old 08-21-2005, 06:41 AM
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What are is the tc and what do you mean by the timing chain cover.

-Jeff
Old 08-21-2005, 06:46 AM
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tc = timing chain

the cover is the front part of the engine under the head. you'll have to remove the cam sprocket and chain to remove the head.

Can you post a couple pics of your progress so far?


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