22RE Head Gasket. HURRY!!!!!
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22RE Head Gasket. HURRY!!!!!
Hey Guys,
Im tackling the project of replacing my own head gasket on the 22RE with 139,000 miles. I have everything that is attached to the head detached in order to remove it( exhaust manifold, front idler pulley bracket, power steering bracket, air intake, all 11 head bolts(including the front bolt hidden under the distributor gear) distributor, and EGR tube). The head is on there really solid still. Any suggestions what i can do to get it off and continue the project because I need to repare it before school starts on Tuesday.
Thanks guys.
-Jeff
Im tackling the project of replacing my own head gasket on the 22RE with 139,000 miles. I have everything that is attached to the head detached in order to remove it( exhaust manifold, front idler pulley bracket, power steering bracket, air intake, all 11 head bolts(including the front bolt hidden under the distributor gear) distributor, and EGR tube). The head is on there really solid still. Any suggestions what i can do to get it off and continue the project because I need to repare it before school starts on Tuesday.
Thanks guys.
-Jeff
#2
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Ground wires, fuel lines, wire harnesses (including oil pressure sender and knock sensor{I broke that one by not removing it $120} etc..
Here is a link from a 93 FSM for head removal. Along with the other things on thelist on the page look at step 8 on pg.5 it shows you where you can pry (just be gentle).http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf
Hope that helps.
I used that FSM link when removing mine, but left the entire intake assembly and fuel rail attached to make it easier to disassemble them on the bench.
Here is a link from a 93 FSM for head removal. Along with the other things on thelist on the page look at step 8 on pg.5 it shows you where you can pry (just be gentle).http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf
Hope that helps.
I used that FSM link when removing mine, but left the entire intake assembly and fuel rail attached to make it easier to disassemble them on the bench.
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Originally Posted by Yota1
Hey Guys,
Im tackling the project of replacing my own head gasket on the 22RE with 139,000 miles. I have everything that is attached to the head detached in order to remove it( exhaust manifold, front idler pulley bracket, power steering bracket, air intake, all 11 head bolts(including the front bolt hidden under the distributor gear) distributor, and EGR tube). The head is on there really solid still. Any suggestions what i can do to get it off and continue the project because I need to repare it before school starts on Tuesday.
Thanks guys.
-Jeff
Im tackling the project of replacing my own head gasket on the 22RE with 139,000 miles. I have everything that is attached to the head detached in order to remove it( exhaust manifold, front idler pulley bracket, power steering bracket, air intake, all 11 head bolts(including the front bolt hidden under the distributor gear) distributor, and EGR tube). The head is on there really solid still. Any suggestions what i can do to get it off and continue the project because I need to repare it before school starts on Tuesday.
Thanks guys.
-Jeff
Grab a teflon/plastic/rubber mallet and give the head a couple of solid yet gentle whacks in various locations. (If you don't have one handy a chunk of wood will do to soften the blow from a metal hammer) Head gaskets are notorious for sticking.
#6
Yes, he means the head bolts. Try the mallet idea. I am just finishing up a head gasket job on my 93 22re right now...I know your pain. if you have any other questions while you are doing the job, feel free to PM me. Oh and be careful w/the small bolts that bolt the coolant hard line on the underside of the intake manifold. Get 2 new bolts, and do it. I broke off both of them and was forced to find another intake manifold.
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#8
Then once you do get it off be sure to run it by a local machine shop to have it planed (to completely clean and smooth the mating surface) and cleaned up and tested for cracks (magnafluxed) and "trueness" or what have you..., it's alot better than having to re-replace the head gasket just because you overlooked this step.
#10
I paid $160 for the head to be cleaned, resurfaced, valve job, and new valve stem seals to be replaced. Oh and they painted it for me. I do know someone at he machine shop though. Make sure to get new head bolts. Yes, it is necessary, unless you'd like to do the job again....
#14
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the shop i take my engine components to for machining charges me $35 for a cylinder head resurface. not too bad in my opinion, it's good insurance on an aluminum head engine like a 22R, especially if you blew a head gasket.
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Thanks guys for all the Info, and no i havent gotten the head off yet. Im waiting on a buddy to come down that actually knows what hes doing (unlike me). How much is a new set of head bolts?
-Jeff
-Jeff
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So these type of bolts arent the stretch type of bolt and I can reuse them if they are in good shape? People are telling me different things about the head bolts. Somebody please clerify.
-Jeff
-Jeff
#18
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I think they stretch. Get new bolts, and follow the proper torquing procedure when reinstalling the head. I used the old bolts the first time I had the head off a 22re and I had problems later on.
You've got the timing chain cover and tc off, right?
You've got the timing chain cover and tc off, right?
#20
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tc = timing chain
the cover is the front part of the engine under the head. you'll have to remove the cam sprocket and chain to remove the head.
Can you post a couple pics of your progress so far?
the cover is the front part of the engine under the head. you'll have to remove the cam sprocket and chain to remove the head.
Can you post a couple pics of your progress so far?