jdyoung

I'm not doubting that 2000-2500 would do much better, I totally agree with goat. Cash isn't the issue, Actually the Ford taurus fan would be cheaper than the one I purchased, It's just where I live on the Oregon coast there are no wrecking yards here or near here (2.5-3hrs away) and then I need to fab it to fit? If I could find one local I would definately try. Now on the flex fan do you still use the factory clutch or do you just use a spacer and blade? Also if you remove the clutch and run the fan direct is it loud? (not that that is an issue, just curious) I have a fully restored 72 blazer running a flex fan and it is real loud but it's running a pete jackson gear drive and a B&M 671 with the noisy belt so it doesn't matter. Also where did you get the fan, and how many blades? Thanks

jdyoung

I most definately agree, I was talked into the electric fan due to the clutch on mine felt week and thought maybe this was the cause of the overheating, Went down to order the clutch and was told 1-2weeks for arrival?......... I am wondering if maybe the clutch was bad but then this new elec is not much better than the weak clutch? I'm thinking: have the radiator flushed (should be done once and awhile anyway) order the new clutch, put the clutch and fan back on and flip the elec to the front side and just use it as a helper fan. (would like to just take the damn thing back but now that it's been used I don't think their gonna take it back?)

mt_goat

Lots of guys had problems with those weak e-fans with the older 3.0. When they went back to a mechanical fan they were fine. Go with a strong e-fan or go mechanical. Now having the e-fan in front as a pusher to help the mechanical would be a good idea for extra cooling, but it can block some of the natural air flow you get on the highway and with a new fan clutch I doubt you'll need it much.

jdyoung

UPDATE: So bought a new fan clutch today and removed the electric all together. Can drive all over and it stays at half or below, put it in park and idle (for a half hour) stays at half or just a hair over, But........ put it Drive and hold the brake and within 3min it is at 3/4 doesn't go red but holds at 3/4 or a little more.....I'm lost, the last option is the radiator. Or a bad motor that I bought, But I have talked to many toyota techs over the past few days and theyare saying it's not gonna be the motor...

eddieleephd

Once again have you blown the radiator out????????????????

Also are there any fins on the radiator that are bent over????????

Straighten all bent fins and blow it out..............

Also that coolant you used should be exchanged for TOYOTA RED!!!!

Really do these things and then reply what the fix is!!!!!!!

jdyoung

Will do, I am dropping the radiator off in the morning at Northwest Radiator and he is going to test/clean/repair whatever it may need, I did blow out the fins and there are none bent over, We do have a dealership here in town, so I'll get some of their coolant after the radiator is done......... I will update again tomorrow. Thanks

eddieleephd

ok was looking for that answer. it is weird that you are on the cool Oregon coast and still over heating. definitely sounds like a blockage/flow issue!!

Now I asked before what the TEMP rating was and you did not know this. You really should know!! Before reinstalling the radiator and filling with antifreeze I highly recommend getting the LOWEST possible temp rating you can this could cause this issue!! This will induce a low flow and you really do not want to drop coolant and pour back in!!!!

jdyoung

Gotcha, I did get a new thermostat yesterday to be safe, All I could get was a 180 but they can order a Stant 170, I'll order it. I do agree, It seems there is a blockage restricting some flow somewhere. Thank you for the suggestions all of you.

hilux1026

whats your timing set at??? after all that you have replaced and done to this engine and still getting an overheat issue i would look at the timing. If its advanced to far ( running lean)this will make and engine run way hotter than stock. Check this as well.

Kiroshu

^The engine my run a bit hotter but the OEM cooling system can compensate for it very easily.

Kiroshu

IF you stay OEM and repair as OEM you will never have probs.

jdyoung

Update: Okay after all this, I have been working on my own vehicles my whole damn life, restored classics, built buggy's and crawlers etc. etc etc......... I feel like a total idiot! When you buy a new radiator you expect it to last more than 6 MONTHS!!!! When reunning coolant from the top down it flowed decently? But pulled it and took it to a radiator shop yesterday. 5% flow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What the F%#@! The owner of the radiator shop said he has never seen anything like it? radiator is less than 6 months old and plugged. He is going to cut it open to see what he finds. (FYI radiator was a good brand, well good for aftermarket. It was a koyorad) Koyorad is known well among hotrodders for having excellent all alluminum rads. Anyhow bottom line 6month old plugged radiator!

jdyoung

Thank you for all the advice and help fella's. BTW purchased a Toyota factory radiator.

eddieleephd

I agree with you I was thinking the same thing once you do the radiator it should be fine no matter what thermostat you use!!!

Damn the luck !!!!

now If I remember you said you were running green coolant and I said to run red because of the aluminum block and such!! This is probably part of the issue, the green will corrode aluminum!! usually causing pits and such but could have clogged the Radiator!!

Glad you found the issue and wish you well!!

mt_goat

I'm going to have to disagree that green coolant causes corrosion in aluminum. Usually what causes problems with Al parts pitting out is electrolysis. One main cause of electrolysis is using tap water to mix with the coolant. Tap water has ions that conduct electricity, distilled water has those ions removed and is not a conductor. Another main cause is electrical parts not properly grounded.

I also doubt that had anything to do with the plugged radiator.

eddieleephd

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...oducts/1272436

This is a good article to read on the subject that green is not nearly as good!!
And why you should go red!!!

jdyoung

I've been running green my whole life in all my drag engines and strokers, Most all with aluminum heads and definately all alluminum radiators and haven't had or seen this before, I have heard that people have had these issues before but it was from running 50/50 mix, I have always ran straight green. BUT I have also done a Ton of research lately and have found that Toyotas for some reason are very prown to electrolisis. So as extra precaution I bought the red and added a better ground strap from the engine/frame/body/neg. terminal.
The owner of the radiator shop had been doing this for 32yrs and says it was not due to the green, he asked what antifreeze was in there when I bought it, I called the lot where I bought it (that installed the radiator) and he said they just send them out with water no anti freeze! I let him have it at that point! I called the local oil can where I get my changes done and asked if they had noticed that I was running no antifreeze and they stated "We do not remove the radiator cap to check colant, we just look into the over flow to see the levels there" Bottom line is I should have been doing better maint. on my vehicle. Thanks

mt_goat

I'm not seeing them saying the green is bad, in fact I quote from your link:

eddieleephd

BUT I have also done a Ton of research lately and have found that Toyotas for some reason are very prown to electrolisis.

Ok now after you read that link that the green has less silicates in it to prevent ionization and like stated above the research shows that our trucks have a higher electrolysis leading to ionization than most vehicles, THIS equals bad to me. I am a low maintenance as much as possible guy and if it breaks down quicker and even quicker than that in our trucks I consider that BAD.

I will agree that it is better than straight water, and state that it is not nearly as good as other antifreezes.

I will always run a better product even if in the short term it costs more because in the long term it saves sooooo much more!!!

There are however Tablets you can get to reduce this factor which is an anti-ionization tablet.

I have searched and still not found but have it on good authority they were sold for american vehicles with aluminum radiators.

FogRunner

Aside from the coolant one of the biggest factors in clogged radiators is the water that's put in with the coolant. I've seen well water and some rural municipal supplies that will clog a radiator in a couple of weeks.

Also when flushing coolant be sure to drain the block too. I've lost count how many people I've seen flush their cooling system with cleaner and a garden hose and then drain the radiator but not the block.

If you don't drain the block you still have almost a gallon of tap water, flushing chemicals if you used then or old coolant if your just doing a drain and fill.

IF you want to do the job right drain the block and refill with distilled water.



FOG