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185 Degree (F) ATF Temps with cooler in 90 (F) degree outside temp, is this normal?

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Old 07-31-2010, 12:38 PM
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Got 185 Degree (F) ATF Temp w/ cooler in 90 degree (F) ambient temp, is this normal?

Just completed putting in a B&M 70264 super cooler transmission cooler, I put it inline after the stock cooler, and put in a green (HD) fan clutch off a 4R. I have a scan gauge hooked up (didn't before this unfortunately) and today while driving around town I saw a high of 185 degrees (F) for my ATF temperature. The outside temperature was around 90 degrees (F). This was in city driving, running some errands, after I got back on the highway headed home it dropped to around 177 degrees (F) or so. I was not towing anything, and the only thing in the truck was my wife and kids, myself, and the normal tools and what have you I keep behind the seat, the A/C was on and the water temp got up to around 203 degrees (F). I just had the timing belt replaced, as well as the water pump, and coolant flushed. My question is are these temps normal for this type of weather and/or driving conditions? I was expecting much lower temps with this setup. Thanks

Last edited by nexgen91; 07-31-2010 at 12:41 PM.
Old 07-31-2010, 12:49 PM
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Sounds good to me. Stop and go city driving is torque converter intensive. All shifting and no lock up. It cooled down nicely after you got on the interstate. Really anything 160-200 is perfect. -As far as I'm concerned anyway...-
Old 07-31-2010, 01:16 PM
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What's okay for the fluid should be okay for the transmission, no? (At least, the blue zone)


Last edited by pendrag; 07-31-2010 at 01:17 PM.
Old 07-31-2010, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kball
Sounds good to me. Stop and go city driving is torque converter intensive. All shifting and no lock up. It cooled down nicely after you got on the interstate. Really anything 160-200 is perfect. -As far as I'm concerned anyway...-

I am mainly concerned about towing, as come late August I will be towing a 3500-4000 lb uhaul some 250 miles one way and unloaded (roughly 2200 pounds) back the 250 miles. Wondering if I will have sufficient cooling, or if I should bypass the stock cooler, and/or get a cooling fan for the aux cooler.
Old 07-31-2010, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by pendrag
What's okay for the fluid should be okay for the transmission, no? (At least, the blue zone)

The blue zone in this chart is probably indicating the absolute perfect temps for that fluid. I would think regular dino ATF would be able to handle over 170 no problem.

Originally Posted by nexgen91
I am mainly concerned about towing, as come late August I will be towing a 3500-4000 lb uhaul some 250 miles one way and unloaded (roughly 2200 pounds) back the 250 miles. Wondering if I will have sufficient cooling, or if I should bypass the stock cooler, and/or get a cooling fan for the aux cooler.
You are talking mainly highway miles. Which means you'll have plenty of airflow most of the time. Keep it out of overdrive and put synthetic fluid in your trans.
Old 07-31-2010, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kball
The blue zone in this chart is probably indicating the absolute perfect temps for that fluid. I would think regular dino ATF would be able to handle over 170 no problem.



You are talking mainly highway miles. Which means you'll have plenty of airflow most of the time. Keep it out of overdrive and put synthetic fluid in your trans.

What synthetic is the one I should use? I just put a quart and a half of type IV in, and the PO said they had the trans oil changed about 6 months ago. Im kind of getting low on funds for the moment, so the upgrade to synthetic may have to wait.
Old 07-31-2010, 07:00 PM
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Type IV as in Toyota type IV? That's not the same as Dexron III. Don't use that. I'd put in Dex VI (6) or Valvoline DexronIII/Mercon Max life both are synthetic and cost around $6-7 a quart.
Old 07-31-2010, 07:19 PM
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Those temps are normal IMHO.

Valvoline Maxlife is an exceptional fluid at $4.99qt or $59 for a case (12qt). If that is too much $$$, the Castrol Import ATF in a gallon size can be found at Walmart for $11 or $12.

If you are not planning on doing a full ATF flush (16+qts), just drain the pan (around 3qts) and fill. Do this at least 2x before you tow. Make sure not to tow in OD.......
Old 07-31-2010, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kball
Type IV as in Toyota type IV? That's not the same as Dexron III. Don't use that. I'd put in Dex VI (6) or Valvoline DexronIII/Mercon Max life both are synthetic and cost around $6-7 a quart.

everyone told me to use Toyota type IV so that what I put in there, arrg. Now I need to know what I should do, not sure exactly what the PO put in there either. Should I flush it out with the Castrol Import ATF the above post mentioned, or would it be better to install an aftermarket pusher fan onto the cooler (and maybe, drain and fill the pan twice)? Ideally I would love to flush the tranny, and add the cooler but unfortunately finances limit that.

Last edited by nexgen91; 07-31-2010 at 09:33 PM.
Old 08-01-2010, 06:18 AM
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You only put in a quart or two of the type IV so to me it's not a huge deal. You could do the at home flush described in this thread, http://home.centurytel.net/stevenjac...sh/tranny.html or you could just do a couple drain and fills using one of the synthetics mentioned. Up to you.
Old 08-01-2010, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by kball
You only put in a quart or two of the type IV so to me it's not a huge deal. You could do the at home flush described in this thread, http://home.centurytel.net/stevenjac...sh/tranny.html or you could just do a couple drain and fills using one of the synthetics mentioned. Up to you.
I did something similar to the link above, though I didn't drop the transmission pan, when I was installing my cooler. I flushed through 12 qts of castrol Dextron VI (6); my existing fluid was old and dark, and I flushed until it was coming out nice and clear, bright red.

Rather than mess around with making a graduated bucket (for the flush part, not the pan drain), I used a 2.5 qt plastic paint bucket from wal-mart. I had my wife start and stop the truck, and I dumped the little bucket into a bigger one each cycle. The worst part was how slowly the ATF flows into the transmission - each qt took a long time to drain d-o-w-n t-h-e t-u-b-e.

I'm also doing an incremental fluid replacement in my power steering, replacing it with Castrol dextron VI as well. I got a oil mixing syringe at wal-mart, and I'm removing 8 oz at a time from the power steering reservoir and replacing it with dex VI. Drive a few days, and repeat. After 12 changes or so, it's 95% new fluid*

*I don't have the little chart I made up with the actual percentages achieved with each dilution, but that's more or less right.
Old 08-01-2010, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pendrag
I'm also doing an incremental fluid replacement in my power steering, replacing it with Castrol dextron VI as well. I got a oil mixing syringe at wal-mart, and I'm removing 8 oz at a time from the power steering reservoir and replacing it with dex VI. Drive a few days, and repeat. After 12 changes or so, it's 95% new fluid*

*I don't have the little chart I made up with the actual percentages achieved with each dilution, but that's more or less right.
Funny, I've been thinking about doing the same thing with mine. So it takes about 12 times to git er done huh? Guess I better get started...
Old 08-01-2010, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by pendrag
What's okay for the fluid should be okay for the transmission, no? (At least, the blue zone)


ehem..this chart you posted fails hard

when the tranny cooler and radiator are integrated, the atf constantly
stays above 184 and never gets cooler than that, unless you shut down.

so, according to the chart, all Toyota transmissions should be failing hard (or the atf should fail to do it's job)
soon in their lifetimes, as well as every other manufacturer, if they use dino based atf fluid.

oh you mean the chart doesn't mean the tranny will fail or have a problem in the red zone then ?
what the heck does the chart represent anyway ?

big disagreement. typical amsoil 'scare tactic' ...what does the blue zone even mean ?
toyota trannys last forever.

Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls; 08-01-2010 at 06:55 AM.
Old 08-01-2010, 07:11 AM
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Water is too hot for sure. ATF is a tiny bit high. Could be the fan messing up both for you.

90F is not a hot day for this vehicle. It should be able to keep the thermostat's trigger temperature no problem, even standing still.
Old 08-01-2010, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by BigBallsMcFalls
ehem..this chart you posted fails hard

when the tranny cooler and radiator are integrated, the atf constantly
stays above 184 and never gets cooler than that, unless you shut down.

so, according to the chart, all Toyota transmissions should be failing hard (or the atf should fail to do it's job)
soon in their lifetimes, as well as every other manufacturer, if they use dino based atf fluid.

oh you mean the chart doesn't mean the tranny will fail or have a problem in the red zone then ?
what the heck does the chart represent anyway ?

big disagreement. typical amsoil 'scare tactic' ...what does the blue zone even mean ?
toyota trannys last forever.
Couldn't agree with Big Balls more!!!
Old 08-01-2010, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DailyDrive
Water is too hot for sure. ATF is a tiny bit high. Could be the fan messing up both for you.

90F is not a hot day for this vehicle. It should be able to keep the thermostat's trigger temperature no problem, even standing still.

So your saying there is something wrong with my coolant system? I asked the tech who did the timing belt and they put in a 190 degree thermostat, which seamed kinda high, is that the stock temp?? What water temp range should I be seeing on a typical 90 degree day? Thanks
Old 08-01-2010, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DailyDrive
Water is too hot for sure. ATF is a tiny bit high. Could be the fan messing up both for you.

90F is not a hot day for this vehicle. It should be able to keep the thermostat's trigger temperature no problem, even standing still.
According to this link the water is just fine.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...zfe/preche.pdf
Attached Thumbnails 185 Degree (F) ATF Temps with cooler in 90 (F) degree outside temp, is this normal?-coolant-temp.jpg  
Old 08-01-2010, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by nexgen91
... I asked the tech who did the timing belt and they put in a 190 degree thermostat, which seamed kinda high, is that the stock temp??
Stock is 180, I run a 160 myself. That being said, 203 isn't too bad, just at the top of the normal range.
Old 08-01-2010, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Stock is 180, I run a 160 myself. That being said, 203 isn't too bad, just at the top of the normal range.

Looked at the "previous day" info on the SG today and it said I hit a high of 216 yesterday, I think Im gonna go get a 170 degree thermostat and see what effect that has, forgot to mention I am Supercharged as well so it prob would be better to have the 170 one. From what I understand its pretty easy to swap out right? Like two bolts, and maybe a hose clamp... any one have a pic of its location?

Last edited by nexgen91; 08-01-2010 at 10:39 AM.
Old 08-01-2010, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by nexgen91
Looked at the "previous day" info on the SG today and it said I hit a high of 216 yesterday, I think Im gonna go get a 170 degree thermostat and see what effect that has, forgot to mention I am Supercharged as well so it prob would be better to have the 170 one. From what I understand its pretty easy to swap out right? Like two bolts, and maybe a hose clamp... any one have a pic of its location?
T-stat housing is 3 bolts, you'll have to remove the SC pulley tensioner too.


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