Fist post, first thread. Done a bunch of searching and not really finding too much online or in the service manual, and unfortunately Timmy doesn't have a video on this one.

My wife 4Runner starting making noise while under acceleration. tracked it to the transfer case sounds like a bearing is stating to go. got the case out and ordered another though LKQ. Just received yesterday. Looking at the new transfer case there is no transfer case motor actuator module on it just a rod. I did a bit of searching and it sounds like the whole case needs to be cracked open to replace this? I did find one page that someone was able to put theirs on. Toyota has always been decent to work on so I'm a bit in disbelief that their engineers would design it that way. anyone have any pointers? return it to LKQ and ask for another?

how to I found on here my motor does not have the little window on it.


new case

old case

Thanks!

 

I’m going off memory here while I’m at work, so I may have to amend some info later.

first get the 2 cases side by side and setting at the same angle and make sure all the bolt holes, bosses, plugs, etc are exactly the same. If anything is different send it back.

Next on your actuator, you should be able to pull the two position switches out and then unbolt the actuator from the case and slide everything off that rod. The rod that is in your picture doesn’t appear to have the worm gear millings and is just the rod that indicates case position.

 

Thanks for the reply. The 2 cases do match up from what I can see.

and the actuator rod does have a toothed section on the bottom of it at the outside end.

 

Looks to be correct for 01-02, I'm going to guess as I haven't tried it, but it looks like you would need to split the t-case actuator, (not the t-case as mistakenly mentioned many times, but I guess you could do that if you wanted to separate the shift forks?) pull the stator motor and black plastic gear reduction assembly from the aluminum base, remove position sensors, then you should be able to remove the aluminum base off the shift shaft. Don't turn any of the actuator gears or power it up for testing unless reinstalled, note positions and transfer case position, do not hit the round cap on the top, it has magnets glued in it, reinstall in exact order insuring shift rod is in exact same position and gear reduction is in the same position and cross your fingers. It looks like a complex version of the rear diff lock basically, but I see no way for that gear to slide off the tooth shaft without disassembly or messing with it range/postions.

Personally I'd be asking for a complete t-case with actuator as your actuator looks a lil tired, I'm sure inside it is fine though. And bearing noise is very hard to narrow down, the t-case does make a bit of noise with that chain in there, I've been chasing down a vibe and noise aswell, drive shaft, 3rd member, turns out it was rear axle bearings although you'd swear it was the t-case, couldn't tell is was rear axle bearings until I pulled the shafts and wiggled the backing plate.

 

I've got the actuator case apart now, with the sensors off and the reduction gear out, it's pretty clean on the inside. Going to give it a shot swapping over. LKQ said I could return it or get a partial refund, but it already took them 2 weeks to get me this one.

 

Well I think I got it, the actuator motor is switched over to the new trans case. However the gear position pic I took before pulling it out came out to blurry to use. I did find the below pic online so it's anyone's guess the vehicle was in 2wd before I started this project.




here's my process.
loosen up the 3 worm gear case bolts
pull off the cover and take a pic on position -don't be an idiot like me and make sure your pic comes out ok...
remove gear assembly inside
remove sensors -mark which one is front and rear
remove 3 bolts and the metal actuator case.
I measured the length of each actuator rod mine were just under 4 1/4 inches this did match with the other transfer case.
-installation was the reverse -the actuator rod can be twisted a little if its not straight with the housing.
replace gear the same way you took it out! use the pic you took and checked before removing it.

If I had more time I would return the transfer case and have another shipped with the actuator motor on it but winter is coming and I'm doing this in my driveway. If the position is wrong everything is never seize'd so it will come apart easily.

It's nice to see a forum still alive. I'm typically a vw/audi guy and those forums are a ghost town from what they used to be...

 

Well done, pretty sure you're the first to document this on this style actuator. I have a 99 so it's all cast aluminum no plastic but I assume the procedure would be similar. As long as your methodical about disassembly and reassembly it should recognize the positions and be within range of motion, I'm sure there's a bit of play if you're off a tooth or 2 as the contacts have a bit more range than is used, let us know once you have it in and confirm life is good for others in this predicament.

I hear ya on dead forums, this site has seen lil action on the 3rd gen 4R side of things, I jumped ship and started using T4R.org, it's a bit more active. I came from the old school forums like club dsm ubb for 1G DSM Eclipse/Talon/Lasers, the site is pretty dead now and I started into it in the mid 90's when it was dial up and pages and pages of discussions in letter format called the Talon digest, I guess everyone modded there DSM's to the point of destruction, I still rock my old 1992 Eclipse GSX AWD turbo AKA the 2 door EVO

 

I was looking at T4R and made an account, but needed 15 posts to create a new thread and I'm not much of a poster.

 

Stoked you were able to get the actuator off without much hassle.

 

I use their aero Kroil spray it and leave it for the day. www.kanolabs.com/ best penetration oil I've ever used.