SpeedCrazy

Soo I believe i have a code 71. EGR System...
I know nothing about this. Time to dredge through the fsm.

EDIT: Just thinking... i may go ahead and run some seafoam through the crankcase and fuel before i go tearing into to stuff. It could be that after cleaning the PCV valve its noticing how clogged everything else is, cause it was pretty clogged...

bone collector

I bet if you remove the egr valve and clean it thoroughly. Your code will go away. Word of caution, there is a LONG rod inside the intake that gets nasty dirty. Be careful when you remove it. You will need to remove the 2 bolts on the exhaust manifold as well to get the egr valve out in one piece

SpeedCrazy

Well i poured in half a bottle of seafoam... before i read the label which said 1oz per qt of oil. Oh well. Saving the other half for my gas, i just filled up so as its a half bottle i'll wait till about half a tank to pour it in.

On the egr valve. How easy is it to get out? It looks like a tricky spot to get too. I'll have to get some carb cleaner and canned air and have a go at it sometime when i have a day off of work.

bone collector

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...18egrsyste.pdf

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14layoutan.pdf

I don't personally know on the 22re. I keep thinking you have the 3.0 but that was your last truck. here is some help

SpeedCrazy

Thanks. Doggone it, it is tucked right back in there like i thought. Oh well, some ties to mark vacumm lines and some time and i ought to be good.
Do you think i am safe to use carb cleaner on it? What would y'all suggest?

SpeedCrazy

Well the CEL has gone off, i presume due to the seafoam. I still plan to clean the EGR when i get a chance but i'm glad there is not rush now.

Can someone explain something to me? What is it with the heep vs yota hatred? I mean i get the friendly banter and whatnot but i had a jeeper ready to pull me out of my truck last night because it was a yota... I was coming home and saw a jeep upside down in the ditch with a guy beside it, i recognized the jeep from around town so i slowed down opened my window and asked if he was alright and if i could do anything to help. His response?
"Get the f*** outta here dipsh**, i don't need no help from a f****** toyota driving pansy!"
Now i know there are bad apples in every bunch, but jeepers seem to be a sensitive bunch. The jeep was still in the ditch this morning so i guess the wrecker was driving a yota =p

Boreas

Hey Speed, that clunking noise is almost definitely your steering stops. Same thing happened on my truck (92 extracab). From factory there are these little plastic caps that wear out pretty fast leaving metal on metal.

If you want to be sure, smear some grease on those suckers and drive over a curb at full turn, see if the noise is quieter or goes away.

I actually took mine out, giving me a tighter turning radius and no noise. I'm not necessarily recommending that, but I have had no issues so far (maybe 40-50k like that). But I don't wheel my truck ,strictly on road (work) and some light exploring.

Also, I have installed airbags to supplement my rear springs and love them, but I'll post that in your airbag thread.

Boreas

Also, I believe replacing those wheel studs to be pretty straight forward. A good poke with a sledge and they pop out, put the wheel back on and suck the new ones through with the lug nuts.

I have not done this on a Toyota, and I am sure there are torque specs, etc if you're interested, but I think it's a pretty basic procedure. Just be sure the flange on the back of the new studs are tight to the hub and you should be good to go.

Good luck.

bone collector

In order to remove the wheel studs on a 4x4 Toyota, you need to remove the outer locking selector hub and wheel bearing, brake calipers, and remove the brake rotor assembly. then once all of that is off the truck, you can simply poke them with a sledge and replace them.

SpeedCrazy

Good to know. If i'm removing the wheel bearing... that means i will have to repack it, right? Not looking forward to that.

Really been appreciating the ludicrously hot heating in these truck the last few mornings, its been as low as 26F already, and its only October!

bone collector

The last 2 times I have changed rotors etc and had to remove the bearings I simply removed the bearings and placed them on clean cardboard. When I put them back in, I didn't repack them when I put them back in. I added extra grease when I finished up.

bbrideau

The egr valve on the 22re is pretty simple to remove. unbolts from back of intake plenum and the side of the head. the vac lines get plugged up easily and so does the actual hard line to the egr valve. just make sure you mark all the hoses and put them back properly it can be a pain to deal with them if u mix them up. I really suggest replacing all the vac lines as they may appear to be fine but could in fact be cracked

The bulb your asking about, if you mean the black bulb bolted to the lower intake its part of the PAIR system, it eventually attaches under the intake and goes around the back of the motor then to the little tubes on the top of the exhaust manifold,I removed mine all i noticed was my intake was a little bit louder. not sure if you need it for emissions stuff. If it isn't broken leave it alone, i have never had a problem with it i just removed it along with the rest of the PAIR system.

that port that appears to go to nothing is normal it is capped off. It's not used by anything.

92DLX

Haha, wow. I'd never drive a Jeep but I'd be happy to have one help me out of a ditch.

Speedcrazy have you considered doing a zuk mod to give your rear a little help until you can get around to Chevy or OME springs? You can zuk the rear for under $100.

bbrideau

they're sensitive because barbie drives a jeep haha. Actually i have no issue with jeep owners. I'm part of the east kootney jeep club. It's called a jeep club but its half yotas half jeeps. the odd zuki in there as well.

SpeedCrazy

Thanks for the information.

I have considered it, but idk, i'd rather do it right first time. We shall see. Hopefully i will get something moving here soon. Got some birthday money and some free time.

bbrideau

no problem man, if your interested lcengineering sells all the block off plates for the egr/pair system. You could make them yourself for cheaper if you wanted and have the skills, they are pretty cheap tho to get them all.

SpeedCrazy

What are the advantages of doing that, besides less junk under the hood?

bbrideau

depends on your situation, first off, if you have to go through emissions don't remove any of it. If you don't the topic has some controversy over it. People mainly don't like others that remove emissions stuff because they help the environment. With that aside if your egr is not working or stuck open/closed lines plugged. It renders the whole system inoperable. Not to say the EGR is good or bad, the egr system when working normally will lower combustion chamber temperatures by recirculating inert exhaust gases into the combustion chambers. The PAIR system (Pulsed Air injection System) basically takes fresh air from the intake and puts it into the exhaust so that any unburned fuel will burn off in the exhaust before venting to the atmosphere at the end of your exhaust. It keeps CO and Hydrocarbons down and allows our CAT to be more efficient. In my case. my egr was stuck open and my CAT has long since been removed so those 2 systems are no longer useful. Ultimately it's up to you what you want or do no want hooked up to the engine.

This link can just reiterate what i said about the PAIR system
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h65.pdf

The end result for me was better mileage because my egr wasn't constantly on and since i don't have a cat i don't need PAIR. After removing all that i have one vac line for my Fuel Pressure Regulator and one for the EVAP cannister. You can even remove the idle up lines that go to the power steering pump if you want to all they do is bring your idle up when turning the wheels at a complete stop to prevent possible stalling.

SpeedCrazy

In that case i think i'll keep it for now. Not sure how long i will be in an emissions red tape free state. Hopefully i will have time to clean it over the Christmas break.

Speaking of which, i was mentioning to my dad that i was planning to give my truck a little love in the next week and he said i might want to wait till after Christmas and see what i get, so guess i better put together a to do list.

I need to buy tires this week as i am bald bald bald and spin on everything regardless of how easy i start... yeah i know dangerous, just been too busy. But i have the cash and will be price hunting this week. Maybe see if i can get some black friday deals. Probably going with some more BFG AT/KOs they have done well for what i need.

Changed the oil again yesterday 600 miles after the sea foam treatment, black as tar. Guess it did it's job, need to remember to pour another one in in about 3000 miles.
Which brings me to my next thing, while i was under there i greased all my zerks and checked the skid plate bolts and such; and was noticing my skid plates are getting a bit beat up and developing some surface rust, as well as some other small parts down there, brake arm, exhaust hangers etc. And i figured that they would make some good small projects that i could put on that Christmas list.
What do y'all recommend as far as dealing with that?
Im thinking wire wheel and por15 then some por15 rubberized undercoating for max protection. I wish i had the time and facilities to coat the whole frame, but getting all the little bits and pieces that take most of the damage is second best i guess.

SpeedCrazy

Got home this afternoon and the alternator is squalling... never fails, if i decide to spend money on one thing something else breaks. The tire store who was gonna cut me such a deal on the tires last time wont return my call so i guess they took the whole week off. Probably wasn't the smartest thing to wait till thanksgiving week to try and buy some tires. Oh well.

Do i assume the squalling on the alternator is a bearing? And if so does that indicates impeding failure? If i replace it i'll probably upgrade to the 70amp 4runner one.