rustED

iTrader: (2)

I think a small stinger would look really good on there! That's ONE thing I do like about my smitty front bumper, is I can barely see that top cross bar in front of the hood, like you said it helps judge how close things are in tight spots, plus a little added protection is always a good thing!

RBX

Went to the Outer Banks for the week, here are a few shots from Corolla, NC with the wifey, son and his girlfriend. This is the way I like to go to the beach, load up the truck and drive.
We usually fine a spot about 200yards from the closest people......





gratuitous shower shot


Did confirm the hot water line works, running a cold supply thru the radiator while truck runs. I need to get a better mixer, the cheap plastic one isn't going to last much longer getting tossed into the truck on trips.

only issue the truck had all week was a short in the dash lights, which killed the tail lights on the way down. Replaced the fuse and truck was fine all week till we left late at night, and I could find the short. I got home and tore it apart, I believe and extra LED interior light I installed was the culprit. So a six hour ride home in the dark with only headlights, and the iPhone on the dash with flashlight to read the gauges. Mainly to monitor water, fuel and RPM since I had GPS also. At the same time I think my amplifier lost channel one(front left). Tearing that down now. I'm not a big stereo guy but I love my tunes, and need them for any trip, not to mention beach .

irab88

iTrader: (4)

i thought the head unit on my truck was bad, but i found it was just a poor crimp on the speaker connector itself. one squeeze of the crimpers and it was back to normal

RBX

That's funny, I just discovered the same. I think mine may be a bad connectoion to the driver actually. But jiggling the connector helped.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Nice pics! Man you got an awesome setup, always look forward to seeing what your going to do next!

RBX

Thanks dude. It's always a work in progress. I made the awning and shower a couple years ago during my rigs first summer outing. I really enjoy being as self contained as possible, driving to and from wheeling trips. I'm not interested in trailer my truck or cutting it up.

FailRated

Your rig is super legit man. I like how you can drive it for hours and it's comfortable...... And then put jeeps to shame while you wheel the snot out of it.

83 trail rig

Nice webbing in the bumper
I think I'll have my bud laser out some gussets for my build

Nice build

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

peabody

iTrader: (1)

I have a converted automatic with the ports at the bottom of the rad. Is that where you ran it? Page reference in your thread, maybe? Like your approach.

rattlewagon

Now thats how you go the beach! Love the awning!

Gizler00

iTrader: (1)

I love your setup. That's the only way to go anywhere!! Drive it as far away from everyone!!

RBX

Thanks guys.
Shower, yes it's run thru the radiator. My rig was an auto when I got it. I bought an rv water pump that doesn't need priming and senses pressure to shut down or restart. I haven't tested it in the winter so I don't know if it will sustain heat for a shower duration. I thought about a heat exchanger, but they can scorch if you turn the water off to lather up.

RBX

After a few years of running the Taurus(Villager/Quest)electric fan, I will say that I have found two issues, none have created a failure in a way to leave me stranded.

1. My first Villager/Quest fan burned up and became wobbly after a year or two of use. Note that the controller failed and was running constantly on low speed, which compromised the bearing, the fan did not contact the radiator.

2. The DCC controller has now failed twice, this second time has the relay for low speed stuck/welded closed(ON). I think this may be due to heat or the A/C circuit on the Toyota. Again, this was the way it should fail, on constantly will not leave you stranded, funny because high speed circuit works as it should. I have bought two of these controllers now.

So after some research, I am going to go the budget route as many hot-rodders have with the Volvo electric fan speed controller($10 from the bone yard). I already have the eFan, just need, the controller, temp switch and connector for the temp switch(pick'n'pull).

here is what I'm about to do:



Note the relay on the A/C, this is due to the fact that the A/C on the Toyota will activate the fan when the A/C is off because of the Toyota A/C circuit design. I'll be using the ignition to turn off or lift the ground when the vehicle is off as to not drain the battery if the controller sticks on(as my DCC has).I will also run a switch to lift the ground , deactivating the entire system.

Part Numbers:
Dual temperature switch:
BMW Part # 61318361787 (176°F / 190°F)
OR
BMW Part # 61311378073 (195°F / 210°F)
Connector for Temperature switch(better off getting it from the junk yard):
BMW Connector housing Part # 61131378410
BMW Angled Connector Housing Part # 61131378412
BMW 0.2-0.5mm Small Wire Part # 61130005199
BMW 0.75mm Big Wire Part # 61130006665

An inline water temp snesor mount like this(3VZ-E uses 34mm hose):


I'll report back with pics soon, should have it wrapped up this weekend.

Links for the vital information I found:

Volvo eFan Controller thread-start explanation of system.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028

Part Numbers
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196209

BMW Coolant sensor pin-out threads= M14 x 1.5




s-10 bracket
http://www.nebraska4x4.org/index.php?topic=1301.0

4Runner Install on Pirate4X4
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...n-install.html

RBX

Last night I reconfigured where my thermo switch was located. Initially, out of convenience, I set it into the radiator fins at the top of the rad. This produces a fan that will turn on once operating temperature is reach and never turn off. Not what you want. My original thought was mount it at the bottom rad outlet, but my fear is that the coolest part of the radiator may produce a scenario where the engine overheats(or heats up beyond normal operating temperature) throughout the radiator just as the fan kicks on. It wouldn't take long, but the initial coolant entering the radiator would be at or above operating temperature. So, I relocated the thermo switch to control the fan about 1/4 (3" to 4") from the bottom tank on the passenger side of eye radiator. At 84f ambient last night, at idle, the fan cycled on and off approxamaitley in minute intervals, on 1 minute, off 1 minute.
As a side note I am running an oversized radiator, I think it was for a T100 or first gen Tundra, thick 3 core(actually it's 2 core the size of 3) and my coolant is almost 90*f difference between top tank rad inlet and bottom rad outlet even before fan is on or during fan operation.
I may experiment with a thermo switch moved down closer to the rad outlet.

HCott

Did all the 88's have two interior door latches?

HCott

Looking really good man.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Just the passenger door has two, (not the driverside). I'm assuming all first Gen 4runners came that way, my 86' has them.

RBX

^^^Yes, in fact you could install a second one on the driver side also, since these were also sold in right hand drive countries.

Yota

Thats the best thing I've read all day! That would be really handy

Nervo19

The beach looked fun. Do you still have the dash out? If you get a chance can you shoot a picture of where the green A/C button plugs in? I'm trying to add pieces as I get them . Mine came without A/C.