m44offroad

Prior to beginning the swap I spent countless hours on Marlin Crawlers board, Yotatech, Pirate and other forums and made a list of what was required to perform this swap, many of which fell under the category of maintenance and easier to perform with the engine out and began compiling parts.

Required for my swap
Motor mount brackets (chilkat)
Oil pan, pick up tube and dipstick (Chilkat)
Fuel line to route from pass. to drivers side (ended up using braided stainless fuel hose and misc. AN fittings from Summit racing)
Misc exhaust pipe, clamps, adapters (in the end the exhaust still needs to be done I just havent had time to take it to a exhaust shop yet)
Custom power steering pressure hose (once I got to this point I found the 22re hose worked, but removed the pressure switch , as of yet I still havent noticed a difference without it)
Maf adapter to cone filter and cone filter due to damaged air box (ebay for the adapter and it came with a free filter, Summit for the AEM dryflow on it now)
22re fan clutch drilled out to the larger studs on the 3rz (used my old fan clutch and fan)
Upper and Lower radiator hoses for the 3Rz (dealer)
Heater hoses (2 were factory for the 3rz, 1 needed to be matched from autozone)
VSS sensor (marlin crawler)

Maintenance Items
Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing (Marlin 1200lb HD clutch http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...ch-kit-1200-lb)
Flywheel bolts both for crank and pressure plate new from dealer
clutch hose (found a braided stainless brake hose on Ebay that fit, along with front and rear brake hoses)
Machine the flywheel (local machine shop charged 10 bucks to machine it)
Exhaust manifold, The factory cast iron manifold is known for cracking, in 2000 I believe Toyota changed to a mini tube header that no longer had the cracking issues Part #17141-75080 (Dealer)
Fuel filter (dealer)
Water pump (dealer)
Thermostat and gasket (dealer)
Spark plugs (dealer)
Spark plug wires (dealer)
Rear main seal (Dealer)
Front crank seal (dealer)
Valve cover gasket (dealer)
Pcv valve and grommet (dealer)
Drive belts (dealer)

Unrelated to the swap but stock piled at the same time
Front winch bumper (Davez off road performance)
Front bumper frame support brace (front range off road)
Trailgear rock assault E-locker axle housing (east coast gear supply)
4.10 E-locker with working motor(free from scrap pile at work with bad bearings)
Pinion and carrier bearings for E-locker (dealer)
Pinion drive flange to adapt newer Tacoma pinion to original drive shaft (just differentials)
Pinion seal (dealer)
Axle seals (Marlin crawler Eco seals)
255/75r17 treadwright guard dog tires (treadwright.com)
17 inch oem steel wheels from FJ cruiser new take offs (free from scrap pile at work)
T100 brake rotors (eBay)
T100 Brake calipers (eBay)
Front and rear braided stainless steel brake lines (eBay)
w56 transmission shifter socket and seat (Marlin Crawler)

Most of these have made it on to the 4runner either during the engine swap or shortly after, where as stuff like the brake components have been sitting in my spare bedroom waiting.

m44offroad

After pulling the 3rz from the donor and putting the engine on a engine stand I began by performing the preventative maintenance on the 3rz, pulled the cheap aftermarket spark plug wires auto lite plugs and replaced with OEM, replaced the water pump and drive belts with OEM parts, swapped over the Chilkat modified oil pan and pick up tube, motor mounts and then began pulling the 22re.


After removing the 22re I cleaned out most of the original accessories for the 22re and proceeded to remove the brake booster and master cylinder, clutch master and slave and removed the clutch lines from the engine bay. Next up was swapping the w56 bell housing for the w59 bell housing from the donor and also used the dual diaphragm brake booster, master cylinder, clutch master and slave cylinders and clutch hard line from the donor. After swapping everything over it was time to take the 3rz off the engine stand, install the Marlin HD clutch and put the 3rz in its new home.


Now began the fun part, after getting the 3rz dropped in and bolted to the transmission I found the motor mounts would not line up, in part due to the steering stabilizer.

And mainly due to the modified oil pan failing to clear the front diff.

So at this point I am a pissed and dropped the diff to get the engine to sit down on the motor mounts and figure out what the next step will be.

kornhuskerwizard

you installed a diff drop to gain clearance on the pan?? Interesting thread. I love the 3RZ!

m44offroad

more correctly rotated the back of the diff down with 1 inch spacers, thanks to the welds on the modified pan a BFH couldn't clearance as much as needed. on the bright side if I use ball joint spacers in the front the cv's wont bind lol

m44offroad

After spending a few days looking at the 4runner I decided to order a diff drop kit and see if I could clear the oil pan and I removed the steering stabilizer and decided to figure that out at a later date. After getting the 1 inch diff and sway bar spacers installed I found I was still hitting so out came the BFH and a pipe and beat the oil pan to fit. In the end I ended up with about 3/16th of a inch between the oil pan and front diff and decided move on to the rest of the swap.
I began with extending the fuel line from the pass side to drivers side, originally decided to bend steel fuel line and flare the fitting my self, as the kinked pieces of steel line began to grow in number and end up in the trees I decided to use 6AN braided stainless fuel hose from summit racing with AN fittings and adapter fittings to the Toyota flare fittings and left the fuel line in the factory position up to the firewall on the passenger side and used the braided stainless/AN fuel line up the pass side firewall and across the top of the firewall and around to the drivers inner fender. Because of the distance from the exhaust I used a DEI Fire sleeve http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010474 over the fuel line from the frame up to the top of the firewall.

I used bulk 1/4 inch rubber fuel line for both the fuel return and the vent to the charcoal canister.

At this point I still needed to wire the engine but couldn't help myself, I plugged in the ecu, filled the oil and using jumper wires connected the power and grounds needed to run and used a Power probe on the starter signal wire. I was trying to catch the flame out of the exhaust but my cell phone wouldn't pick it up but here is a video of it running for the first time.
http://s31.photobucket.com/user/m44o...61201.mp4.html

I bought both the 1998 4runner and 1987 4runner electrical wiring diagrams off eBay and began pulling apart the interior harness from the 1998 leaving the wires between the ecu and DLC3 and the combination meter untouched and began the pin out of both the 1998 and 1987 harnesses in order to splice them together. Due to the failed speed sensor in the combination meter of the 87 I was forced to use the combination meter from the 98 which and required the use of the Marlin VSS. I forgot to take pictures of how the Gauges mounted, during the rollover the dash was crushed and it broke the mounting tabs off the top of combination meter, I cut the bottom tabs and notched the 87 dash support to accept the 98 gauges. After attaching the gauge cluster to a piece of 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron I attached the angle iron to the dash and sandwiched the gauges with the bezel.

I used a plastic no trespassing sign and cut out a filler panel to cover the gaps from the difference in size between the 98 gauges and 87 gauge bezel.

The main down side to the 98 gauges is the usage of a dummy light for both oil pressure and voltage unlike the sr5 gauges the 87 had. This was corrected with a pillar gauge pod and I used Voltage, oil pressure and vacuum gauges from Glowshift.

m44offroad

Now I found myself looking at the fuse block from the 1998, realizing with rather limited space on the drivers fender, and only needing that fuse block for the ALT fuse. I had a engine harness for a 2006 scion Xa at work from one a used engine we installed and realized the Fuse block off the battery was compact, had space to add more circuits and by bending the positive tab flat would fit the Optima yellow top.



Due to the 22re Alternator being on the drivers side I found a splice point on the drivers inner fender for the Alt power wire to the original fuse block, this got a new terminal and was bolted into one of the 60A fuses, and the battery lead on the factory fuse block on the pass. fender was cut and sealed.


The other 60A fuse goes to a auxiliary fuse block that serves for powering the headlights and off road lights as well as the OBD fuse.


As anyone who had owned one of these vehicles knows, the sealed beam headlights leave a lot to be desired in the way of light output so while I was doing the wiring for the swap I decided to upgrade the headlight harness. Using the instructions on 4 crawler and many other sites, I upgraded the headlight harness to 12ga wire using ceramic sockets and crimped and soldered connections at both the headlight socket and at the relays. The headlight sockets I got here http://www.headlightplugs.com/H4.ht.html . The relays I got from Del city electronics.


The relays are Hi beam, Lo beam, Fog lamps, and KC long range spot lights, all running 12ga wire from the auxiliary fuse block to ground.


After getting the harness worked out (my apologies for no pictures of this) and routing the harness through the firewall and dash I realized my engine harness was too short to reach original ecu location on the pass kick panel and after my water issues that led to the swap I opted to mount the ecu in the glove box. This required cutting the back out of the glove box, securing the ecu, routing the harness and making a cover to keep things in the remaining glove box.

m44offroad

I finished the wiring, bled the brakes, bled the clutch and moved on to reassembly starting with the power steering. In all the research I had done Everyone had a custom pressure hose made for the power steering, I found the factory pressure line for the power steering threaded straight in to the 3rz pump, the down side was loosing the pressure switch.


I understand the switch controls Idle up when turning at low speeds but so far (in a little over 3000 miles) I have not noticed any down side to removing it.

Next was exhaust, I used the original 3rz y pipe and trimmed it about 4 inches from the flange since at this point the exhaust angled away from the engine and in to the frame rail. I had a coworker weld a 2 1/2 to 3 inch reducer to the end of the Y pipe and used a flex repair pipe to run between the transmission and front drive shaft and connect to the 3rz catalytic converter I placed in the factory spot on the 4runner.


Due to the 02 sensors being moved back I used http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1308 to extend the harness for both o2 sensors.

At this point the 4runner was running and drivable, minus the steering stabilizer and I began focusing on other items.

Roark

Do you have any pictures of the 4Runner in these stages? It seems like a really interesting build. Very straightforward and direct. I like it!

Can't wait to see the final product of the build up.

m44offroad

t this point the 4runner was running and drivable, minus the steering stabilizer and I began focusing on other items.

I soon moved to my other parts that arrived beginning with the 255/75r17 treadwright guard dogs on FJ cruiser steel wheels. Having been running Tacoma wheels and stock Tacoma 265/70r16 tires I knew the 16's required a 1/4 inch spacer to clear the outer tie rod end so I used Toyota's New model guides for the specs on both wheels. The Tacoma wheels are 16x7 with 30mm offset and the Fj wheels are 17x7.5 with 15mm offset and factory was a 15x6 with -12 offset, this gave me a extra 5mm of clearance from the tiered end after removing the spacer and kept the outside of the tire 8mm narrower than factory.


These tires are advertised at being 32.2 x 10.5 which may not seem like much but they dwarf my buddy's 33x10.50 BFG mud terrains.



After 3 months of waiting, numerous phone calls and e-mails and well over a month of being told it was ready and would be shipped out in the morning I finally got my front bumper from Davez Off Road and test fit my new bumper

a
Freshly primed and painted with duplicolor bed armor

m44offroad

Unfortunately the few I did have where lost between the last 3 cell phones I really hate technology at times.

m44offroad

During my original research I heard the 22re a/c compressor would bolt to the 3RZ and with a different clutch would work with the 3rz. I didnt get that far, I found the motor mount was too far forward and the a/c compressor was too long to fit, so at this point I just removed the A/c system.

m44offroad

I put about 500 miles on the swap before I noticed the howl from the rear diff was getting worse. A few years before I had a U-joint come apart and while the drive shaft was out I resealed the rear diff, replaced the rear axle seals and leaking wheel cylinders and replaced the brake shoes that had seen better days. While the diff was out I noticed the pinion had left some severe wear on the outside of the ring gear

Between the wear, leaking pinion seal, mangled pinion threads and bearing noise I knew I had limited time on the rear Diff and the 3rz gave me less time. While building up parts for the engine swap I had ordered a trail gear rear axle for a e-locker, had acquired a 4.10 elocker that needed bearings. This gave me the motivation to install the rear axle.



Out with the old



The new axle with the spring perches welded on and painted

In with the new


As a side note to the Trailgear Axle housing the position of the breather vent is right on top of the carrier and as a result going down the highway gear oil is pushed through the breather and makes a mess. Wish I had known before installing the 3rd member so I could have welded in a baffle. Right now I have about 3 feet of bulk hose run up to the spare tire and this minimizes fluid loss until I re gear and correct this design flaw.

m44offroad

At this point my rear end was sagging again, the add a leaf I had done in the rear had worn out and was back to riding on the bump stops. The 3/4 inch of lift from the rear axle housing helped to clear the bigger tires but I was a little too close to the fenders to even think of loading down the back end. In march of 2013 I ordered a Old Man Emu 2 inch lift from Kurt at Cruiser outfitters. the lift consisted of new torsion bars, leaf springs, shocks, shackles and bushings and lifted the rear back up. I ordered the HD kit which added a extra leaf in the spring pack. The extra leafs are still sitting in my spare bedroom as I'm waiting for the rear to settle. At the same time as the lift install I replaced the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod assemblies with factory parts.

After the lift install.

m44offroad

Now the fun began. It should be noted that I am a mechanic, paint and body work are not my specialty and with the lack of proper facilities I am amazed at how well this turned out. It is by no means a show quality paint job but serves the purpose of preventing the rust from spreading and returns the 4runner to a consistent color.

I began by stripping down all the trim and sanding the original paint and removing the SR5 stripes.



Removed the windshield (should be done by a qualified professional) and top


Taped off the window openings, headlights and engine bay and shot the first coat of primer with a gravity fed wal mart special spray gun, learning as I went


Began filling the dents and my ADHOLAS (attention deficit, hyperactive ooh look a squirrel) kicked in and I missed a couple dings, I also removed the rust from the windshield frame and got the surface as flat as possible.

m44offroad

The 2nd and 3rd coats of primer


And finally the final color. I chose a flat desert sand from Summit Racing's Hot Rod Flatz paint section.


Then followed the body line with Monstaliner black roll on bed liner Also bed lined the entire floor and the fiberglass top with the Monstaliner.

Roark

Very clean paintjob! Always admirable to see a can do attitude.. Even if its painting right in the yard! Question, though, what did you do to remove the SR5 stripes?

m44offroad

Now came reassembly which is still a ongoing progress. As much as I prefer to stick with OEM parts I began to find more and more parts are being discontinued and have left, made in china options from ebay. I ordered a grill, headlight surrounds, front corner lights, tail lights, door handles and door seals off ebay. Managed to get the outside trim across the door glass and back glass as well as the vent window rubber from the dealer. Many of the parts where chosen to get away from chrome and stainless trim, both have their place and in my opinion that place ended about 1976.

As I reassembled the 4runner I found little reminders of why I dislike aftermarket parts. While installing the door handles I found the plastic clip for the linkage was too small for the linkage to fit. On further inspection found that the dimensions on the door handle where smaller and the linkage barely fit the empty hole. I took a trip to Tractor supply company and found a thin fire wall grommet that fit between the linkage and handle and a lock collar that could be tightened to keep the linkage from falling out

Before being street legal again I needed a windshield, Between breaking the glass while pulling it for paint and body work and the leaking seal around the glass allowing water into the cab it was long overdue. Some of the trim was damaged on diss assembly, other parts fell off going down the road and given the cost of the windshield trim I opted to leave it out and the glass shop worked with me on the best way to do this. Although there is increased wind noise at highway speeds it functions perfectly, just isn't the prettiest up close



bed lined the top


And the more or less final product

m44offroad

Thank you. I used a pin stripe removal disk chucked up in a cordless drill (best 12 bucks spent lol) after trying razor blades, sand paper and all the goo-gone type removers on the stripes.

Roark

That link you posted to the Sears site..Does the pad have the chuck thing that goes into the drill on the backside? It only showed that front side picture. I don't mean to be such a bother about it..

Eric

m44offroad

No worries. It has a threaded stud on the back for a die grinder arbor. The one I used was a astro pneumatic 400e. same one I posted from sears. here is a pic of the back side