Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure that is the same head?? just kidding. Looks great.

Locked_SR5

OK people... BAD news..

I went to install the newly machined head and initially found out why there was a head gasket problem.. As you can tell I spent time cleaning the pistons, had the head worked on, etc. doing things the right way.. I even chased the head bolts threads, cleaned them out, and made sure they were able to be hand threaded all the way down.. I even planned on using new head bolts, etc..

I installed the gasket and head to specs and started the process of torquing the head bolts per FSM, the three different torque steps to 58LBS.. I was able to to torque all the bolts to 40lbs, and started to torque the bolts to 58Lbs in the correct sequence. This is where I found my problem.. On the last freakin bolt, which I think is the #10 (driverside and fire wall) the bolt kept spinning and was not able to torgue to 58. The block threads are stripped!! and I'm like WTF!! So knowing that, it explains why the #3 and #4 cylinders looked the way it did, why there was oil emulsification on that one head bolt, and why you were able to see the radiator fluid leaking from the head near the #4 cylinder.. The PO or the place that rebuilt the motor must have stripped the bolt threads.. Simply put, Head gasket failure because there is not enough clamping force between the block and the head...

With all of this said.. what are my options?

I really dont want to remove the block, but at the same time, I dont want some hokey-pokey fix.. I've heard and researched helicoils, timeserts, and BJ weld (where you put in the threads and retap, or put it in the threads and put the bolt in and let dry, then remove bolt).. Man this sucks,, why couldn;t it be one of the bolt threads in the middle and not on the last bolt, that is in the hardest spot.. I think I just wasted a head gasket..

Can I reuse the "old" new gasket or do I need to purchase another one?

thanks

Locked_SR5

Time for the much needed update.. Since the last post, I've made a quite a bit of progress.. As mentioned before, found out the bolt threads were stripped in the block an was the reason for the headgasket failure..

The Timesert was actually pretty easy to install.. watched a couple YouTube videos and saw that no power tools were needed.. Did that, installed all new gaskets, and put the engine back together.. Had the chain set to TDC and started first try.. So was pretty excited about that..
..

Let the engine warm up to see if there would be any leaks or any rough idling.. That checked out good. The water temp gauge went to just over halfway, which I feel is a little warm.. I think I may have some blockage of flow in radiator (top hose is hot and firm while bottom hose is cool)..

With the engine now running, it was time to do the front alignment and adjust the steering.. I was able to set the rotors to have the rotors toed in 3/32 and now drives down the street straight..



I also referbished and installed the front locking hubs..



When driving down the street, I encountered a significant hesitation, sluggishness, and miss when the motor was around 2000 RPM.. Ran an engine diagnosis and got a Code 7; faulty TPS.. did research on that and check the ohms and needed to replace the sensor.. Replaced that and adjusted to specs.. Pulled the EFI fuse to reset and test to see any codes.. None when idling but when at 1500 RPM Im getting a code 11. That is where I am currently at.. I might just take it to a shop and have them do a once over on the engine, adjust the TPS, install the exhaust system and make sure it passes SMOG.. I may run the 22RE a bit longer and hold off on the 3.4 swap til I get the bodywork, CBI rear bumper, paint and interior finished up..

RMP8080

Nice work, glad it went well.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOO HOO! hahaha... Flashback for me, reading that! lol.

Great work, man..... congratz!

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Nice work on the motor, glad you got it going again! I was wondering, are you running 14" bilisteins, and are you using the factory mounting location on the front axel? I started mounting my hoops and shocks yesterday, and with the 14" bilisteins it doesn't look like it would allow much up travel, I'm starting to second guess myself and wondering if I should of used12" bilisteins, lol. Thanks man, and awesome build!

Locked_SR5

Yeah, I'm using 14"s up front and 12"s in the rear.. On the front and rear shocks I have about 5 inches of the 5/8" shaft showing, which should work for me because I do not want the front springs to go past flat (don't want a lot of up travel, but as much drop as possible on the front and rear springs). I still need to install the front bump stops, but will do that after things settle a bit..

All,

Thanks for following my build.. Its been exciting working and building the runner knowing that it is something I did and not paid for.. My dad gets excited about it and tells his friends what I've been doing.. Hopefully I'll take it to his place in the next couple of months to start on the bodywork..

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the response, I think I welded my shock hoops too low on the frame because I only have about 2-1/2" of shaft showing, I am also running rufs springs... wish I would have just tacked the hoop in place instead of burning it in! Im thinking of just modifying/lengthening the upper shock mount, it will have to stick thru the inner fender, but oh well, lol. Thanks again, I pretty much used your build as a reference when doing my SAS!

Locked_SR5

Time to post pics.. Well, over the last several days, been working on the runner a lot, figuring things out, and solving problems..

As mentioned before, I was experiencing a decent amount of hesitation at 2000 RPMs. I forgot to mention I was trying to accelerate without an exhaust system.. low and behold, this is why it was hesitating.. I guess not enough backpressure?? I'm still experiencing a code 11 at 1500 RPMS, but that is just a TPS adjustment.. Anyways, since I plan on doing the 3.4 swap later, I didn't want to spend money on an exhaust that was going to get cut up again.. I bought a new muffler(will reuse on 3.4 swap) and used some old piping..



Got it welded together and man, it sounds nice..

Since I got the exhaust installed I was able to drive it around on the streets for a bit.. It rode pretty good and tracked straight (not bad for a DIY alignment). I also tried to adjust the disc brake settings so that the fronts do not have all the stopping power.. With the 1-inch brake cylinder, double brake booster, V6 calipers in the front, and discs on all four corners, this thing STOPS on a dime with the right amount of applied pressure (not too hard, not too soft).

Here's a pic of me finally having the truck on the street in over 2 years..
Keep in mind that I'm 6' tall and I'm running 35" tires, 63" chevy's in the rear, 3" TG/RUFFS up front, and a 1.5 in body lift..


Being able to drive the truck around and knowing I don't have an headgasket issue anymore, I noticed the truck ran warm when idling, but cooled when driving.. So after some research on yotatech and eliminating possible causes, I found that my fan clutch was bad.. Would move a good amount of air when I first started the runner, but as it warmed up, it would not move as much air and never re-engage when it needed too.. I was able to stop the fan with my fingers when hot and when the motor was shut off, it kept spinning... After seeing that, it was time to install a new one..

I ordered a factory ASIN and will be here tomorrow.. In preparation of the delivery I did this:


and when I did that, I noticed this:



An aftermarket fan clutch, which are known to go bad..Read that they are not as reliable and go bad within a year.. Also, when researching fan clutches, I read that there are different silicone weights 3K, 5k, and 10k.. Which weight is good for California? The old one on the runner was a 3K



I'll keep you guys posted on the progress once I get the new fan clutch installed..

Also, any advice on the break-in period for the thirds, transfer cases, headgaskets, etc.??

I have a feeling I'll be building that CBI DIY rear bumper soon (in conjunction of bodywork)..

Cheers!!

Locked_SR5

Sure thing!!.. I'm glad someone is using my build as a reference.. It's one of the original reasons why I wanted to have a build thread (and to show family and friends).. I can see myself being a frequent updater over the course of my build. However, I don't think it'll be as long as Chefs.. haha

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, THING IS A BEAST! Great pic you got with your baby! lol... BTW... You REALLY tall? Or am I just tripping? haha...

Sorry bout the aftermarket fan clutch thing... NOT sorry that you got it sussed! Where'd you say you're getting it?

Far as breaking in the gears.... KNOW I just read an updated version of this topic on a Big Mike Thread... I'm assuming on Marlin, right? hahaha. It layed it all out. BUT, honestly? I think Zuk has a GREAT many Tutorials/user testimonials on that stuff on his site.... http://www.gearinstalls.com/ << hit that up to be sure.

OH, and HG? I keep hearing from Tod and Ted of Engnbldr, many others.... "Run it 20 min, drain the oil, refill and new filter. 500 miles later, driving fairly conservative, .... change oil again and go in, readjust valves, check Head Bolt torque.... Then DRIVE IT LIKE YOU OWN IT, BABY!" hahaha.

And btw, ... you saying my thread is too long? hehehe... It's just an outlet for me, along with what is really important to me in my DD, ya know? But I hear ya... it's a bit WOW.... S'all good, right? hehe.

Take care... MAN, I'M REALLY loving this thing, MY YOTA-BRUVA! lol.

Locked_SR5

I know what you mean Chef.. This build is my outlet too, I just wont post as many as you.. I wouldn't consider myself tall, only 6'..

Anyways, back to my build.. I replaced the fan clutch and ordered a 2-inch VDO temp gauge as a back up to the SR5 cluster gauge.. Additionally, I ordered a universal double pod holder off of ebay..

I trimmed and modified the pod holder to fit on the runners A-pillar. Liked the fit and glued to pillar using some resin.



Checked the fitment..



Liked how it looked.. Applied body filler, sanded, primered and ran wiring.. Did a test run.. and It worked... YES!!



I've been driving around town and various speeds up to 50 mph, breaking in gears and retourqing nuts and bolts..

I'm still getting a Code 11 even though I bought a new TPS sensor.. I should say that its an after market part and not factory.... so wondering it that would be a problem?

Anyways, I have to SMOG it next week, so fingers crossed.. After that, I'll order the CBI rear bumper and start working on the 3.4 to get it ready for the swap..

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Gages look sweet! I bet it feels good to be driving her around again!

Redeth005

Wow.... Drool lol Very awesome build thread dude. glad rustEdyota told me to check it out. I might have a few questions for you when i start looking into buying my SAS stuff.

westjohns yota

wow just read your whole thread! looking great man! wish my soild axle swap was all clean again

Goober73

Great Job ..keep us updated......

MaK92-4RnR

a good weight is about 7k for northern california. It worked flawlessly on mine

Locked_SR5

Thanks for the compliment, but yeah, ask any question you'd like.. Here to help anyone, anytime..

Locked_SR5

Hey guys, I know I haven't posted in a while, but here is an update..

So took it in for the initial smog and that failed. I was high on the hydrocarbons.. Took it to a shop, ran a diagnosis, adjusted the timing, idle, TPS, and installed a new catalytic converter.. and viola! passed SMOG..

Paid registration, installed the bikini top, and have been breaking in the thirds, getting a feel for how the runner drives, and basically getting to know her..

So far I've put 250 miles on her, which has been city driving and about 20 miles at a time.. I did however drive on the freeway for a short distance and did get her up speed.. The runner gets to 70 fairly easy, so its nice to know I can cruise at 70..

Also, no overheating issues, so I'm glad that is out of the way..

I've been in contact with CBI offroad and asked if their 10% monthly special applies to the DIY first gen 4runner bumper.. said no, because it was so new.

As a small token of their appreciation, I can get the bumper for 399.00 and 110.00 for shipping.. Just waiting for an invoice to show up in my PayPal account and it's paid for..

I'll post again once I get the CBI bumper mocked up. Not sure if I should start a new thread to show the assembly and install process and link it to this build thread or keep it here..

I've also been updating the interior lighting to LEDs and man, what a difference.. That's all for now and thanks for all the compliments everyone. Glad people are finding this useful..

Locked_SR5

Ok people, I have pics to post, albeit a smaller project related to the runner.. I made custom mudflaps from one semi truck mudflap and using the stock braces from the runner and I think it looks clean and sized right for the lift and tires.

From the rear


From the side


The mudflap holder i trimmed down


The brace I used to provide rigidity


I'll post more pics as I move along, but that's all for now.. I also need to get tunes in the runner too..