Alright update: got the engine on the stand.

Started to tear her down.

Got the valve cover off, was happy with how everything looked so far.

 

Looked down to see the infamous timing chain guide and what do you know, broken just laying in there.

Kinda bummed at this point. The valves were hitting the pistons bad and the block looks like crap. The mechanic said it was a head gasket but the gasket was intact.

 

Now for the crank bolt. What a pain! Built this cheater bar.

Then found a longer bolt and used a tie down to attach to the stand. Worked like a charm came right off.

Ok so as you can see the guide is completely broken with pieces in the cover. Small railroad tracks in the cover but no water jacket whatsoever. Getting a little confused as to what went wrong.

 

Flipped it and got to the crank. Not as bad as I thought it would be here. Just a little more encouraged.

Pieces of the timing guide stuck to the oil strainer.

The worst picture. Two huge pieces of the guide stuck in the case.

And the when I closed shop for the night. Hope I labeled good lol.

 

Ok so here is where I have questions. Does the block look too bad at the pistons? I could not see any rust or gouges in the cylinders but man it just looks horrible. And how about what went wrong. The guy said he was driving and it started smoking and overheating. He stopped it and took it to the mechanic right away and they said head gasket. The gasket was intact and I have not seen any milky or green oil anywhere. It doesn't seem like there was any coolant in the oil. Then the timing guide was broken but the chain did not wear through the cover. I measured the timing chain and it was stretched so I know that is why the valves were hitting the pistons. So my biggest question is what happened? Would the pieces of timing guide in the crankcase cause overheating somehow? Maybe clogging the strainer and created oil starvation, thus overheating? I'm a little confused right now and not sure where to start from here. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

 

i (think i) know what happened to the valves/timing guide:
1) guide breaks
2) chain skips a tooth from being loose
3) ...causing valves to hit the cyls

my suggestion is to clean everything off first. then you can get a good reading on what needs to be relpaced

 

x2 what irab88 said. Probably jumped time on him. With it being that bad out of time it would overheat and wouldn't have hardly any power. The smoke would probably be from all of the fuel being wasted in the cylinders.

 

Ok great thanks a lot guys. My father-in-law said the same thing so I'm feeling a lot better about it.

 

It is pretty common about chain guides being in the pan and no damage. Damage is usually the cause from other things. Usually people run with out the guides so long that it eats into the water jacket and getting water in the oil for a long period of time. I think you are going to be alright.

 

Thanks for the info. I took everything to a local machine shop today and he said everything looked great. The crank journals, main bearings, rod bearings, and cylinders looked surprisingly good. The head might have been resurfaced which the PO didn't say anything about but oh well.

 

Just a quick update. Crank, rods, block, and head are at the machine shop. Rebuild kit is in the mail from engnbldr. Just waiting to start building engine back up. Took me awhile to decide which machine shop to go to because it's so important. Hopefully everything works out.

 

Hey everyone. Got all the parts back from the machine shop today. I have a question though, he said to clean the block with soapy water. Do I clean the machined surfaces too?I don't want to run the risk of scratching the machined surfaces but am I being too paranoid? Or not enough?

 

I had all my parts hot tanked and they came back looking good. Im sure as long as there is no obvious shavings or anything you should be good. A good wipe down never hurts.

 

Update: Got the crank in and all the main bearing clearances looked great. They were a little on the tight side but still within spec. Then got the pistons in and the connecting rod clearances were wrong. Too tight, too loose, the machinist did a horrible job reconditioning the connecting rods. Got to pull it back apart. Any suggestions to how to approach him so he fixes it?

 

It's been a while but here's an update. Machine shop was horrible got everything fixed. Cleaned up block with new main bearings in...

 

New pistons and reconditioned rods....

Polished crank...

Pistons rods in...

 

Decided to get a powder coating system going in my garage for this project...

Oil pan all sandblasted and prepped...

Oil pan powder coated...

Got the head on tonight, the engine is starting to take shape...

 

Here's the pic of the head on.

 

So I have a question about something I'm worried about. I dipped the head bolts in oil before I torqued them down. Once everything was torqued I looked at the head gasket seam all around the block and there was a couple spots where oil has seeped out. Did I dip the bolts in too much oil and ruin the head gasket seal? Should I and can I take everything off and clean the oil off and put it back together? Should I not worry about it? Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you.

 

Hello jnew. If it was me, I would just take the head back off and clean the oil off of the headgasket and contacting sufaces between head and block. I have pulled a head back off after putting it on. I feel as long as the motor hasnt been started and heated the head gasket to help seal it, it is ok to reuse the headgasket.

I have done the same thing and never had any problems.