The wire harness is already on and connected. But I have no other option really. I dont have the hooks and there are no 22RE in any junkyards around here.
I have a long strap I will wrap under both the intake and exhaust manifolds. Everything is torqued down so I don't believe there will be any damage but I wanted to be sure.

 

Just bolt a chain link to the factory location or something. Can't be that difficult to find something that will work

 

So I thought this washer was to the fuel regulator, but it is to big. I can't figure out where it goes.




At the gaskets I have left. Felt circular ones?




Where I am planning to lift. Like like it should be OK.

 

Been a while but I got this in and everything is hooked up.
The only thing I am not sure about is the resonator. Since I removed the PAIR system, it has no where to go to, so I was figuring I would just chuck it, and cap off or plug the hole in the intake box.
However, some people are saying this might cause a rich reading at the O2 sensor and thus the ECM will make the engine run lean to compensate.
Looking at pictures, it looks like most people get rid of it, but will this make the engine run lean and have any performance or heating issues?

 

I do not see how it could cause a rich or lean condition if it is before the afm. No different than running it with a high flow air filter or no filter at all.

If it was after the afm then i would be more concerned.

Plug it and move on imo.

 

Hey guys. So I got it all hooked up and I couldnt get the oil pressure light to go out, and I could not get it to start.

That video is me going over what I did and a general look at the engine.

Basically it cranks, spins freely, but after a few seconds of cranking, the oil pressure light would not go out. This may be because the oil pressure sensor (light) that I have is hooked up with just the insert and not the actual clip but I doubt that because it has a good connection, just not the retention clip. I have to figure a way to see if it has oil pressure without the sensor because I don't want to keep turning it over with no oil pressure.

I decided to try to give it a crank with the EFI and Distributor hooked up to see if it would start, but it will not.
I checked for spark with an inline tester on two of the cylinders, and it has sparked as well as compression up to 150 PSI.
The first time I went to crank it, the fuel filter banjo bolt was a little loose so it leaked out some fuel so the pump is sending fuel through the filter as well.

The only thing I can think is maybe the timing? But I set it just how to factory manual says which was 5* before TDC on cylinder 1.

What do you guys think? Need some help here for sure.

 

Make sure the spark plug wires are in the correct order.

1 3 4 2 top left about 11 oclock is number 1.

Take the dizzy cap off. Turn the cam and crank to tdc and make sure the distributor button is pointing to 11 oclock which is number 1 to ensure it is not 180 out.


I would not worry about the oil pressure light going off while cranking. Once you get it started I'd it doesn't go out within a few seconds shut it off and test the light. The switch is a ground switch. If you ground the wire the light should be off. If it doesn't go off your wiring is bad. If it does then either you have no pressure or a bad switch.

 

How should I ground it? Just touch the wire to the block?

 

Your block is painted so that won't work. Ground it to the chassis.

Also make sure when you painted it you didn't get paint in the hole where the switch goes or it won't have a good ground either

 

I grounded it to the frame and the light did go out so either I am not building oil pressure or the new sensor is not working.

Again I didnt even start it so it is possible it just didnt have enough power to build pressure. I am gonna try to get some new gas for it a little later to see if maybe the gas jsut went bad. Was sitting for like 3 or so month in Florida summer heat.

 

Tried new gas, it is not the gas.
Not sure what else to try.

 

Did you check the timing as i previously advised?

 

Ya, timing is still 5* BTDC. Unless it is 180* off which i highly doubt it is, it should be on.

 

All you have to do is put the engine at tdc and take the dizzy cap off to tell. 5 min and you will know for sure.

 

Did you also double check that your spark plug wires are in the correct order as ehatch suggested?
How long are you cranking? I had to crank on mine for what seemed like a long time before it fired up. In reality it was probably a minute or two of solid cranking.
I would also double check your wiring harness- make sure everything is nice and snug.
Seems to me that if you're sure you have fuel and you're sure you have spark then it must be something simple that you're overlooking.
I know you're probably really frustrated over this right now or I'd make a joke about needing to test your EGR...
Stay focused, don't give up, check things off the list and you'll figure it out. Try to stay positive.

 

+1 to LadyBug, I had to crank mine for a minute or two before it fired to get the fuel system all primed up.

Good luck keep us posted...

 

I took it off and the rotor is at a 10 o'clock position or so (on the number 1 plug) when the crank mark is at 5* BTDC. Unless I am pulling a stupid, I think the timing is on.

The only reason I am weary about cranking away for a long period of time is that the oil light is not going out, maybe because it is just not cranking fast enough to go out, but I don't want to keep spinning it with low oil pressure.

If you guys think I should keep cranking for a while I will give it a shot, I just do not want to do damage.

 

Did you use assembly lube when putting the engine together?

Your light may not be going out due to paint on the threads of the oil pressure sending hole. It has to be able to ground properly.

Timing sounds right to me. I'd crank away see if you can at least get a hit

 

I don't know how much cranking you've done, but on my first oil system prime I bet I cranked it for almost 2 minutes before I started getting oil pressure. There was a noticeable change in the noise the engine made when it started getting pressure. I think with just starter cranking you are OK to go for a bit, just don't run it!

Good luck,

 

Ok guys,
So I finally got a chance to try some more on this thing. I tested the fuel pressure at the cold start injector and it is at 38 psi which is within range. I tried to crank it for a bit, but the battery ended up dying. I then decided to try and test the fuel injectors for resistance, even though they where sent out to RC injection and bench tested and refurbished. I noticed that they are actually outside of the accepted resistance range landing around 20 ohms compared to the accepted 13.7 - 14.2 ohms in the manual.
Could this be my problem? The injectors where all tested to work by them, so I have no idea how they are outside of the accepted ohm range.

Other than that I am still at a loss. It seems like everything is working correctly. I did try propping open the AFM door a little when cranking too but no luck.

P.S. I took out the oil pressure sensor and cleaned the threads off. It looks fine, but do you guys put thread sealant on yours? I have some sealant on mine, not a ton, but enough to not get a leak but idk if that is needed. I do have oil flowing past it so I must be building at least some pressure but the oil light still wont go out during cranking.