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It's coming together. Just very slowly.
I got the 3.0 out and I've got the oil pan swapped over. Luckily everything I just got fits on the 3.4. I'm also going to have to change out my motor mounts and AC bracket. The motor mounts got bent up in the wreck. The 3.4 mounts appear to be stamped steel and the 3.0 are cast and way thicker. Unfortunately the 3.4 AC bracket won't work with the old motor mounts so they both have to swap. I hope the 3.4 AC will work with the old mount. The new compressor looks to be in way better shape.
I found out the old AC bracket will not work with the new engine. But I could make the new AC bracket work with the old engine mounts. I had to cut off the nub to make room for the engine mount. I ended up cutting too much and having to add a washer to shim it. I also removed my antilock brake booster. I took the power steering lines from the donor truck and I'm hoping I can bend them to work. Plus I took the two brake lines that went to the booster and I put in a jumper brake line that I also stole from the donor truck. I think simply bypassing that thing will work out.
The lighter colored line that wraps around is where I jumped the two lines I pulled from the ABS booster.
Tragedy struck when I tried to lower the engine in. My straps slipped out of the hook on the crane. I ripped out my clutch line, throttle cable, some of the heater core hoses, and crushed my fuse box. Hopefully it wont take too long to get back on track. I finally wrestled the engine back into place and got the bell housing and motor mounts bolted down. I also may have made a mistake with my clutch. I used the 3.4 flywheel and 3.4 pressure plate since they were in much better condition. But I used my 3.0 clutch disk since it was brand new and still had all of the friction material on it. I noticed the size difference between clutch disks, but mine fit so I didn't think anything about it. But after reading about it, they may not be compatible.
Plus there is NO WAY my hood is going to go down on this thing. I've got some rubber pucks that I've used to replace crumbling body mounts, I may try some of those as a body spacer on the core support. Also my phone won't let me change where the pictures go and where I type so the words end up randomly around the pictures.
I got the engine running last Sunday and I've been working on all the little things ever since. I got a muffler on and took care of vacuum leaks. I mounted a battery tray and I got the AC vacuumed and charged. It blows ice cold now. I replaced the condensor, dryer, expansion plug, and 2 of the hard lines. There was a hole in my line from the evaporator to the condensor. But the line i needed is no longer made so i had to order both parts of the line from toyota. I think i got the pickup truck style because it has a threaded fitting in the middle instead of a L shaped block that bolts together. But i guess they no longer make the L shapped one. Here are the part numbers I had to buy from toyota.
88716-35240 front tube to dryer
88716-35250 rear tube to evaporator
Also I did my AC lines a little different. My old soft lines to the compressor looked a little suspect. So I took the soft lines from the 3.4 and I did some bending to get them to fit in the 94. So i just used the same plate on the 3.4 compressor and used the 3.4 lines. And i have a massive leak in my crossover. Those band clamps didn't seal at all. I'm going to have to drop the transmission and pull the crosover and weld it together somehow. Maybe with a big braided flex pipe. I'll also get s 3.4 clutch disk to put in my clutch since I used the 3.0 which people say is a no good combination.
I pulled my gauge cluster. I believe my oil gauge is burned. I left the 3.4 switch in place and it went crazy and now after I put the 3.0 pressure switch in it wont move. I also measure the resistance and it is 20 ohms instead of 44. Looking at the oil gauge, it's just a thin strip of metal with some magnet wire wrapped around it. I assume the coating for the wire burned through somewhere causing it to short and cut off the current to the winding there looks to be no possible way to rewrap it. Luckily someone on ebay was selling a set of the gauges out of a cluster for cheap. Hopefully that one reads correct. I also did the tach mod. There seemed to be 1 question that was not answered anywhere else. Do you leave the resistor in place on the front side of the board? I left the old resister there and just shorted it with a 10k resistor. I measured the resistance afterwards and it read 7.something k. I didn't think to see what the other resistor read before I put my resistor over it.
I got my new crossover put in. Hopefully this one doesn't leak. This one fits much better and nothing is in a bind now. Also there is the new clutch disk. It is considerably bigger than the 3.0 disk. I figured since I had it apart I'd upgrade it.
I got the transmission back in this evening. The crossover barely cleared the top driver side bolt, but it went. I probably spent more time getting that bolt tightened then all the others combined.
I got my new oil gauge in. It cost about 70 bucks plus shipping to get a new one from Toyota. The only thing I dont like is that apparantly these gauges start their life out as orange and turn yellow as they age. So now it will be a different color. I ordered a used one on Ebay, but the post office lost it so my next cheapest option was from toyota. I could have stuck around and waited for another one to show up on ebay or buy a whole cluster for a little more money. But since I dont have a working dipstick, the guage is my only way of knowing that all my oil didn't abandon me.
The Toyota part number for the gauge is 83246-35020. I was afraid they would cancel my order and say the part wasn't available anymore, but it went through. Just goes to show Toyota is always willing to sell you a part for a 10X markup
I "fixed" my steering clearance issues with the alternator. I removed the rag joint. Then I put it back together with just the flanges and the body lift spacer that was still in it.
without the rag joint in it, the flange just barely clears the alternator. The center piece with the rubber in the joint is about a quarter inch wider than just the flanges. I dont like the though of the spacer in there but it will do for now.
I've been thinking of getting one of these to replace the rag joint pieces completely. I'll have to measure the one that I have. But I still wont know if the spline size is right. But it looks like exactly what I need. I wish I could find out if someone else had tried it first.
I am swapping my differentials out. The 4.88s with 32 inch tires and a manual transmission is too much. I'm going to 4.11s out of an old set of solid axles. I had 4.10s with 33inch tires on another pickup and the 22re handled it fine. Im sure the 3.4 wont have any problems. I also gave in and bought another throttlebody out of a 99 4runner with an auto transmission. I couldn't track down my idle problems and I believe the throttle assembly was either worn out or broken. The new one snaps back closed with authority when I turn the throttle by hand. The old one just went back closed slowly. The new one doesnt have a dashpot. I'll see if I need to mod the new one to install it. All it will take is a threaded hole to put the stop screw in. Then swap the dashpot over.
I got the new diffs in. The 4cyl diff looks kinda odd when you are used to the v6. They seam like the housings sealed up good with ultra grey rtv. But there is a pretty big leak out of the pinion on the rear. The throttle body works perfectly. My idle is at 6 or 7 hundred and the lack of a dashpot doesnt seem to have any effect so I'm not going to bother swapping it over.
Last edited by gerth92; 11-22-2018 at 03:34 PM.
Reason: Spelling Errors
I found out why the rear pinion was leaking so bad. There was no seal left at all. The metal body was still there but the rubber was long gone.
the one I ordered was some generic sounding name from Rock Auto. It ended up being a Yukon seal. I put a new nut on too since the old one had been torn up.
I'm am now in the process of swapping out transmissions. The R150F that I put in is grinding gears and it falls out of 1st gear almost constantly. I believe the synchros are shot and it either has a shift fork problem or a bearing problem. I got a good deal on another R150F with the transfer case attached so I'm going to see if swapping helps. Also since the transmission is off, I've decided it's the best time to do the dip stick swap. As it turns out it is somewhat possible to do it with the engine I'm the truck. You have to drill from the bottom which is nerve racking. And I had to thread the old hole and plug it from the inside. I'm hoping that this doesn't cause problems. You may not be able to tell from the pictures but I ate into the metal across from the dip stick hole some. I dont think it is bad enough to case problems with the crank or main bearings.
It's been a while since I've done anything on this project. But I decided to upgrade the shock mounts on the front and back. My first attempt was terrible and the sway was almost uncontrollable on bumpy roads.
On the back, I cut out the old crossmember and the old coil buckets. After these pictures were taken, I cleaned it up with a grinder. Also the LSPV is still connected in the picture, but I removed it and ran the brake lines direct to the back wheels.
On the front I had to remove what was left of the upper control arm mounts. There should still be enough there to support the engine mounts. I also had quite a bit of grinding to do after these pictures were taken.
08-29-2018, 09:34 AM
