i dont do much trailing anyway, im more into doin donuts in the mud and snow wheelin

 

sorry for the dub post bros, but i got a friggin job i work at a donut connection / hersheys ice cream parlor. I got some money to throw around noww soo im gettin obx stainless steel headers, i wanna get this lift http://store.fatbobsgarage.com/toyot...995-p5682.aspx
with the differential drop kit, i wanna crank the torsion bars to get as much lift as possible with out messing up the cv's and getting crappy ride quality, also should i get shackles instead of aal's or combine both? I was also wondering what size tires could i run with this and still get good mpg?

Thanks for the help, James

 

personaly i wouldnt go above a 33, for mileage wise not re gearing. 32's are a good size

 

if it were me, i would put that kit on the truck and NOT crank up the t-bars too high because it will definitely stiffen up and you'll lose all your droop. then again, sounds like you don't really plan on wheeling it too hard and might not ever need that droop in the suspension. as for the AAL, I would get them before getting longer shackles, which you can always add later. Yota's are notorious for saggy butts, so freshening up their load capacity with AAL is smart.

as for tires, you said "good MPG"...well what is "good" in your opinion? a 31"-32" tire would probably give the best MPG since it's slightly larger than stock which will keep lower RPMs on the hwy, yet is not so big and heavy that it bogs the motor down on STOCK GEARS. a 33" tire is going to be the biggest you can fit without cutting or bashing some metal. if you want a 12.5" wide 33, you will need new wheels, but a 32" tire might be ok. your MPGs and cutch may suffer unless you've got the gearing to push the bigger, heavier tires, but its not uncommon for people to run this on stock gears.

oh yeah, nice satoshi grille! I like it. and x2 on doing something with that intake setup you've got there. it's got hydrolock written all over it. no, you don't have to have the water level up that high, all you've gotta do is hit a decent size puddle of water...or even just drive when it's raining hard since it's so exposed right there...and right next to the fan, which can splash a good amt of water on the filter as well. your best bet would be to swap the battery to the other side and turn the intake 90*, you're already halfway there.

 

okay cool 32 inch tires it is and since i do little to no wheeling im gonna get alloys so i'll have less weight.... or what ever is cheapest on craigslist , i have more questions about backspacing and getting wheel spacers to achieve the correct back space but i'll get into that later. and yea i wanna swap the battery and intake and i am half way there with the maf wires already being unloomed and re-routed and im trying to get a 19mm breather for the resonator.... but idk where to start on extending the cables any help on that topic would be greatly appreciated

 

good looking truck! if your really not going to off road it just get 31" tires. you will be glad you did for a DD that sees little off road use and to make up for a smaller tire get something like km2 that gives you a good looks while saving you mpg.

 

hey man you will fit 32's with that lift with out cranking your t-bars. i had bj spacers and cranked t-bars and it rode rough and the cv's were at a steep angle

 

man nice work keep it up. about lifts mine only has 2in blocks rear and the t-bars front with 3in body and 33x12.50 easy look in my pics and theres 1 flexed its real close to rubn but it aint ever. everyone on here is correct i started out looking for power mods and ended up 1200-1300 in the motor and ended up with a whole another list of stuff to do lol. ___________________ 94 pickup 22re bored .020, LCE header, LCE throttle body spacer, LCE offset cam, putneys preformance head, 3in exhaust flowmaster, 33x12.50's, custom steel bumper, for the future supra maf/int swap, 4.88's, rear locker, and custom rear bumper

 

dang i havent been on here in awhile, I've done a few things to the truck since i was last on here
Things done:
Replaced leaky water pump myself 35$ (shout out to autozone in greatmills for having it in stock)
Satoshi grille with trd emblem 30$
Black metal truck tool box 35$ (craigslist)
Removed mud flaps
Repainted valve cover (Paint was cracking off)
Capped off some vacuum lines
Repainted tailights (sun made them lighter)
Painted hubs on rims black
took paint off vaccum lines

I'll post pictures later

I've also decided that im not lifting my truck because it would be a waste of money since i do almost no offroading

 

heres some pictures (cell pics kinda blurry)

Engine





got rid of the intake resonator an put a breather in place of it, It makes a little bit of noise and my brother claims it added more tone to the exhaust but idk maybe





I recently decided since i had resistors at my disposal in my engineering class i would eliminate the egr sensor because the CEL was annoying me, i cleaned the sensor tube going from the intake to the egr and there was thick carbon that a scraped out of it and i cleaned the sensor thoroughly, i also put some carb cleaner in the egr port behind the head but still code 71 so i did this

10k ohm resistor (color code brown black orange with gold tolerance band)



closer shot



Since i could not get a bolt with the same TPI i just got one that would start screwing in and cut it really short so i could torque it on there w/o damaging the threads for the sensor in case i would ever need it back on



shots of the truck

 

Looks good man...just be careful of water crossings with your intake so low.

.

 

i have the exact same truck and the same age. what kind of gas mileage did u get before u put on the intake system? after? do u have a lift on it?

 

no lift idk the gas mileage i got problems with my truck right now rough idle white smoke in exhaust and no signs of it being the head gasket cuz the oil isnt emulsified and the coolant looks normal im stumped right now and the exhaust smells rich like carb cleaner