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I'm compelled to comment that in all my reading up on Blazeland's LT kit, the support you provide to your customers and to others is impressive. Just had to comment..
Nate, I put in low profile bump stops = ~ 3/8" height. Lower bump stop = ~ 1 3/4". Then you know the whole geometry thing.
And judging by the severe wear marks on the bucket that houses the bearings there was a lot of pressure scoring on the very outboard edges. I found also that one of my steering stop studs on the spindle is bent down drastically and the strike plate at the bottom of the control arm that it hits is bent back. This could also have helped with the premature wear by causing too much steering angle to be put into the cv, possibly pulling it out to the outer edges of the "bucket" as well...
Right on, were making progress. Good job with your detective work. Having the axle shaft bind up on the side of the barrel like that is asking for trouble. I apologize if I am talking in oversimplified terms as I know your intelligent, have a mechanical aptitude, skills, etc. I am also trying to keep in mind not everyone is going to have the same level of experience, so for some this is new information.
So, yeah low pro bump stops or droop stops will create complications as it will increase the wheel travel that may exceed capabilities of components, as you have found. Generally speaking the CV axle is the limiting component. The second is the outer tie rod end at droop. The third is the upper ball joint at full stuff. Setting the bump and droop stops to limit travel for each of those components is the easiest way to control these issues.
However, there are things you can do to get around limiting wheel travel as a way to protect components. CMdiff is one way to drastically improve the the amount of wheel travel the CV can handle but it is a lot of work and can get complicated. You can also clearance the outer edges of the barrel with an angle grinder. Or check out Built Right as they offer them all ready modified.
To allow more range in the steering components you can use Heim joint steering linkage. This is something you can fab up yourself if you are on a budget if your not wanting to figure it out there are outfits such as TC offering pre designed kits. As for the upper BJ Downey used to offer a "Mega Travel" BJ but since Downey is no longer around that option is moot. But you can make your own Mega Travel BJs with a Dremel and a little clearancing. I've modified a few BJs myself and its not too difficult but be careful as opening up the slot will probable weaken the unit. You should only need clearance the up travel side. I would also recommend deleting the droop stops and converting to limit straps; especially if you do a coil over conversion.
Performing the above mentioned tweaks are options you might consider but make sure you follow through on proper tuning and safety.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention good job on identifying the bent steering stop stud and damaged steering stop pad. Having the steering stops tuned is also a good way to protect binding. One of the many features of the stock LCAs (and thus Blazeland) is having steering stops present. When you adjust them if you can time them to stop the steering to coincide with the stops at the idler arm stop and pitman arm stop this will be the strongest setting. However if you are finding bind then adjust them further out to super seed the idler / pitman stops.
I forgot to mention RCV for CV axle assembly. There is a featured article in 4wd Toyota Owner Magazine a few years back on LT and RCV axles that some of you may be familiar with. I am not sure this can be found on the RCV website but here is the link to what they list for Toyota. I have met a few of the design engineers and staff at trade shows and they are really good people and its a good company with high quality products. Unfortunately these axles are quite expensive.
Oh man, it's been just over a year! Nate's kit is still kicking and getting me into places I have no right going, but I pulled some strings and have been doing some research and got me a new project.
Went into work today and cleaned off the spring perches, shock mounts and radius arm mounts (Fj80 axle).
5.29's are in the mail, and after I donate plasma this next week, my "blood money" is buying me a master install kit and a front end rebuild kit with some new bearings and such.
Decided for now, since the 3.0 is somehow still alive, the $$ we've been saving up will provide me a 4wheel underground 3 link kit. I COULD build all the stuff myself, but I do this all day at work and the last thing I want to do on my time off is more work.
My new "oh my god, this is gonna cost a lot of money" list.
Fj80 axle, re-geared, with all new bearings, seals, the like.
Stage 1, 4wheel underground 3 link kit with those cool looking shock towers.
Drive shaft modifications due to messin' with stuff that ain't broke.
15 (or 16)" steelies with 35 (or 37)" MTR's.
Gear driven t case with 4.7....... gearing.
Hafta rebuild the rear end to match the front.
And the little incidentals that literally double the original projected cost of the build.
Goodness. I've been rolling in so much money that I'm getting everything but my truck done! Got the front axle about..... mmmm, 87% done. Just need to either clean up brake calipers, or get some newer ones, build or buy a heavy duty tie rod, and find some apparently quite elusive axle dust caps.
But in the meantime, ol' brown box delivery truck dropped off some goodies I'm thinking should be installed before the axle goes in!
Took about half hour this morning and divorced the 4.7 case to put in the twin stick. Well, actually, you're taking one pin OUT to install the twin stick, but I digress. So sense the old lady want expecting me for another 3 hours, I kinda started in on building a crossmember for the cases. But wouldn't ya know, don't have progress pictures of that. Stay tuned? OK!
Yowzah. Now you're talking. So what is that t-case?
Also, quick Q; Is it just the challenge of doing the SAS, or why didn't you just go with the LC and maybe swap out the 4 or 4.5 from that? You never did do the 3.4, I didn't see?
Sort of the choices I'm thinking of now. Just so many different ways to go, and pretty much depends on what site you search.
It's trail gears dual case setup. Has the stock 2.28 gearing in the front (23 spline) and 4.7 gears in the rear reduction housing. Was originally thinking of just doing a single gear driven case with the 4.7 gears in it, but I started worrying about my driveline angle once I toss in the fj80 axle. Figured if I could make my front driveshaft longer, at full droop my angles won't be as extreme. Dual cases should add ~6" (ha!) to the total length. Win-win in my book.
Coopster, I'm sorry, but not understanding what you're meaning by LC and 4 and 4.5?
As far as the 3.4, uhhh, still on the list. Unfortunately, my stupid 3.0 still runs ok, so once it really starts acting up, that's when the heart transplant will begin. But in the meantime, figure I'd do all the other stuff I want whilst I've got funds available.
Deanerysdad wrote:
Coopster, I'm sorry, but not understanding what you're meaning by LC and 4 and 4.5?
Sorry about that! I meant the LandCruiser 4L or 4.5L. Just buying a LandCruiser rather than putting the axles from one onto your 4runner. Of course you would still have the straight six on the LC, so that's the down side from my view.
Now I'm comprending what you're saying! Some guy in town was parting out a '92 landcruiser and I just needed the front axle, so ponied up 400 bones and got the front and rear axles(that was the deal, had to take both. Dunno why.).
if you wanna sell your blazeland kit to offset some cost let me know i am in the market and was going to buy the WIY kit. sweet build your truck is awesome
03-25-2014, 07:17 PM
