I'm uploading a video, right now, from the Canon HD P&Shoot..... It SHOULD be revealing, IF YOU CAN SEE! hahaha.....

I will just share.... In the rear? NO PLAY, not up or down/left or right, within the U-Joints.

It will also show that the drive shaft rotates 1/8th of a turn, maybe a lil less, when just rotating it.

What I REALLY want you to see in the video? >>>>>

THE FLANGE side of the front U-joint/into Transfer Case, the portion that goes into the transfer case, it has quite a bit of play, up and down in any direction.

^^^ COULD THIS LAST NOTATION BE, MAYBE, THE PINION STAKE NUT CAME LOOSE???? IS IT NORMAL???? IS IT MORE LIKELY THE SHAFT YOLK INSIDE BEING WORN OUT????

I moved it around in the T-case and no fluid came out..... which I also want to add, which is also added to the video....

"I REPLACED THE T-CASE REAR/OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL, NOT 8-10k MILES AGO, new Stake nut, etc.".......

 

Video is STILLLLLL uploading! GEEEEEEEESH!

40% after 20 minutes... It's only a few minutes long... WTH?

ANY THOUGHTS, until I post it, regarding the slop in the T-case????

 

BTW; Note to self.... My Rancho's are 21.+" extended and 13.75(OR SO)" compressed.....

OMEmu N94 Shocks are 24.01****" Extended and 14.00***" Compressed

This could be a serious limitation that I have to address. OBVIOUSLY the OME Shock gives more 'GO-GO'! lol.

 

HELP~! HAHAHAHA>>>>

 

I definitely didn't reuse that shim....I did a u-bolt flip.

 

Nice video Mark... shake not bothersome... no blair witch issues...
rotational play in shaft looks about normal to me... in other words every truck I've had has been about the same... the rear end looks solid to me... the play on the diff. pinion looks abnormal... the slip joint looks ok to me as it sits not sure how it would be at full droop...
the front Ujoint looks ok maybe a little warn...

what I would do is maybe mark and pull the rear shaft... lock the front hubs and drive around in 4hi for a while... see if you still have vibration... these trucks can be driven that way with no problems... drove my 87 that way for several months one time...

I'd get the diff pinion checked there def. appears to be play there...
have to get new batt. for camera so pics won't be avail. today... sorry.

 

Another Notation of, YES, you guessed it.... 4crawler chiming in! hahaha.... And yes, AGAIN, HE WAS RIGHT!

Obviously I'm not sure this is my issue... could be worse... but I WAS just in there, so we'll see.... AND, now that I'm recalling having SOME slight vibration before the OMEmu Leaf Swap... , It might not be so much the Leaf swap, but rather, the lift it gave revealed that my stake nut is coming loose???? hahaha>>>>

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-play-241647/

 

Thanks RBX, Paul!

Paul, did you mean "Check that play in the T-CASE PINION"? The diff doesn't seem to have anything but rotational play(Redondo y Redondo! hahah)... Not up and down or side to side play in the shaft into the pinion/diff, .... right?

 

Yeah the T-case one you were pointing out sorry my bad...

 

Wow.... Great Job on the still camera recording....I'm not that steady when I'm standing more less on the ground haha, wish I could help

 

TRIG 101, You went up 1.5 over the ZUK coils, you'll have atleast 1.5 more exposed on the slip. No idea how long that slip shaft is, so no idea how much is too much. Generally you'll want atleast as much captive as is exposed, thats a general engineering rule slightly missapplied (Cantilevers, roof overhangs ect)

Looks like the nut is loosened to me also. If you poke around over on zuk's website notice he tightens these past where they started.

 

the output movement of the rear t case looks ok to me. mines like that. i did remove my drive shaft to make sure the nut was tight it and it wasnt. see video. i just retorqued it and it was good to go.

driveshaft slip looks ok as well. about where mine is. it doesnt move much during flex since its center of the rear axle and the flex is left to right.

rear diff may need experts. i know mine has about the same amount of play but i did regear my rear end myself for the 1st time. i think my backlash loosen up after it broke in. i not sure if i should go in and reset the lash or leave it.

i dont see anything that could be causing your vib but i would take the driveshaft of and check the pinon nut and t case flange nut.

the play when rotating the flange is normal in my imo but the nut shouldnt be loose. i just torqued it a little more than specs and its ok for now haha

 

It's free to pull the driveshaft and check the nut. Just sayin.

Rotational play looks to be about normal, I'd say. Less than my old v6 diff had, a touch more than my e locker has. The spacer thing under the bumpstop should have no affect on pinion angle.

I'll say what others have said already, that's a good diagnostic information video. Seems to me check the stake nut, and if you have an magnetic angle finder or something, you could also check the transfer case flange angle compared to the diff flange angle. I believe 4crawler has some info on his site as far as how much is too much for 2 u joint as opposed to cv(double cardan) driveshafts. Don't remember the angle difference offhand, though. Sorry.

 

Hey guys, Thanx much!

Sorry, had a helluva day! BUT, ran out to check things out..... Then wound up or there til 9? Haha. .. WIPED OUT!

First, wanna clear up some things from the thread I started..... Problem with videos is, like text, things can be misinterpreted(or in my case,.... the narrator is incoherently babbling? Hehe...)

1. I did NOT change out the u-joints..... these are OEM 270k miles new! Haha ( I was simply reminiscing others I've done years ago) I have brand new/2 choices... 1 pair of Federal Mogal HD Made in USA... 1 pair MOOG HD....

2. HOWEVER^^^: I might have 180 degree flipped the the d-shaft at some point way back 10k ago when doing the t-case output shaft seal or when doing the gears swap. I'm usually pretty careful and always paint mark the shaft to diff and t-case flanges, etc. (And wouldn't I have noticed some vibration over the last 10k since doing the aforementioned jobs, before the OMEmu swap?)

There might be more I need to clarify, but for now, I'll share todays attempts at doing a lil digging......

*****************************************

1. Marked, then Removed the t-case end of the driveshaft and unstaked the nut, then rechecked.... seems to be a good 90# still.... BUT, as soon as I pulled the d-shaft away, I realized that the t-case output shaft is leaking fluid After hitting it again set to 90# it did actually turn....around 1/16th of a turn, lol. .. (just til the formerly staked spot was past the channel in the shaft) Guess I'll have to do the seal again, but then, if its just started leaking due to being out of round/due to the new angle, maybe I should wait before wasting 17$ on another OEM seal.... What would be the worst case scenario.... output shaft is fuggled? T-case inner stuffs fuggled? Hmmmmmm

2. After reassembling things, there seemed to be a LITTLE less up/down/side-side play in the output shaft of the t-case

3. I dont really notice any REALLY questionable movement either Ujoint of the rear d-shaft

4. Adjusted rear drums, .....which is totally unrelated, true, hehe... BUT PLEASE, lemme just say... This isnt as easy with a Spartan Locker when the tires are off the ground..... especially if u are not really close to level, lol. Ratcheting lil bugger! Haha

I guess I will start by installing the new u-joints... Then go from there? (Not looking forward to that, if its anything like the ones I did on my Chevy 1/2 ton 20 years ago! THAT SUCKED! Lol

Thanx again, everyone!

Any thoughts on the t-case seal already leaking? Wth? Especially with the stake nut still at 90#...(Very slight leak, but always like to catch leaks early on )

 

I just went back to watch again and noticed the play (@2:18). When you push and pull up and down, you can see the output flexing.

How does the front to back movement look after re doing the nut? (Which is what I ment to get the time for, ~3:20-3:30)

Going by the book.. If the shaft is straight(no run out), and Balanced the next culprit is actually the rear bushing. Which leads back to the question "Why is my new seal dead already?"

I'd suspect these but thats just maybe the mutual hate going on with me and ball bearings.
36231H BEARING, RADIAL BALL (FOR TRANSFER OUTPUT SHAFT FRONT)
36231J BEARING, RADIAL BALL (FOR TRANSFER OUTPUT SHAFT REAR)

You didn't happen to remove the flange while you were under there and figure out if it was the shaft moving or the flange moving on the shaft?

 

almost anything could cause a seal to leak mark tiny pebble to flatout wear

so i watched the vid any movement in a Ujoint = bad an i can feel for ya boss i had a 1/2 ton 79 chevy before i got the 79 toy an it threw the driveshaft into a bayou as i was heading home to find out what was shaking my truck so much.. dang swampy stinking YUCK an that was the grease left in the broken ujoint.. dont ask about the swamp water.. >..<

 

I wish I had removed the nut and checked to discern whether the slop was in the output shaft or the flange. .... but dangit, I did not! Grrr... GREAT idea. .. I think I will grab another stake nut in case, then check that out. I think, from recall, it was the shaft and flame moving together, up and down in there. Can't be 100% on that. ... DANGIT! Haha

The movement seemed less up front and still none in rear. There is no slop in the shaft entering the diff....

Haha. .. And yeah, I don't feel slop in either, not that I can say, "Yep! Right there! That's the problem", ya know?

 

Oh, and on the thread for this, DROPZONE mentioned I should post a pic of the angle. I will get that in the afternoon, tomorrow.

 

Hey Chef - also, I think you should put RTV on the threads of the tcase output shaft. The seal only seals up the outer flange surface, you could be seeping some fluid out from the inner part around the nut.

 

The whole driveline angle thing was a waste of time when I tried to correct the angle. F anything made it worst. I wouldn't worry about the angle as much as I would about the u joints. Driveshaft doesn't have to be installed where it was removed from. The drive shaft is balanced at one unit and not with the rear diff and tcase. If it was so important than how would you mark a new rear diff your gonna install to match your old driveshaft? Or if you replace your t case. Heck even driveshafts get replaced and again balanced as one. I have already changed my 3rd member to an elocker and driveshaft to a double Cardin and lenghten. I don't have any driveline vibs.

If u joints have a little play. Replace them and go from there. As well has check the nuts