so are you going to do the 1UZ swap or just fix the 3.0L and continue on? If you decide to fix it www.rockauto.com has the best prices on a headgasket kit

 

It has begun! The old engine is out of the truck and half a part (heads off) everything looks in order other then the HG LOL! I’m going to rebuild the 3vz this time around because i really need the truck back on the road and i don’t have the money for the 1uz to be honest. Either way the cyl walls look fairly good but i am going to re ring and install new crank bearings while im at it... so far so good I am realistically going to have the truck back on the road for the New Year, and that makes me very very happy! Whish me luck!

 

Glad to hear it! I had to do my head gasket replacement last winter. Not very fun especially when you dont have a garage to work in.

Im planning on doing the 3.4 swap when mine finally dies. I think at 285k miles its a good time to retire the 3vze

 

LONG LONG LONG LONG TIME COMMING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IT FINALLY STARTED!!! after nearly 10 months of the truck sitting in my driveway and the engine in my garage I FINALLY finished doing the HG and getting the engine back in with a lot of help from my friends! After ohming the entire ignition system because of a crank fine/fuel fine/spark fine/no start issue only to realize I was out 180* on the distributor it is ALIVE!

Tomorrow:
Rewire front speed sensor (rotted wires)
Fix leaking tstat housing (who knows.... but ill fix it )

Then.... TEST DRIVE ON MY BLOCK! I am sooooo stoked!


More to come stay tuned!

 

OK...

Fixed the Coolant leak
Fixed the speed sensor wires

But now i just found....

Rear brake line is rotted and busted
The auto trans does not select any gear even when shifter is moved

The brake line is straight forward but the trans has me a bit stumped... a little background: I replaced my badly rotted engine wire harness with a wire harness that i purchased off of a member here. because my 4Runner was built split year... built July 1992 (considered a 1993) it has the old style neutral switch. The problem is that the new wire harness has the "new style" safty switch. No big deal i thought... just switch over the connectors (which i did) double check to make sure all wire colors match on both the plug ends and the ecu end (which i did)... but for some reason something is not communicating... I have a feeling i need to compare the harnesses again...

the saga continues!

lol

 

No update as of yet.... But I will have some time this week to try and sort out the trans and brake line. (came in for some research time)

Man do i want this truck on the road again... i sat in the truck for 30min today just dreaming and listening to the CB! HA!

 

Glad to hear that, 10 months is a long time. Keep it up....Bill

 

RMP8080, Dam right 10 months is a long time! HAHA! I had another daily driver so the engine rebuild kind of just got pushed off... you know how it goes...

I got the truck to move about 5 feet today under its own power. Put it in drive (it engaged the gear) moved it forward, engaged reverse, put it in park then back to drive and nothing! this transmission issue has me really stumped! I

Rechecked wiring harness to ECU, and body harness plugs and they all match up colors
Rechecked all connections to the sensors on the trans
Checked fluid level and color/smell

Everything checked out ok. I am really stumped because 10 months ago I pulled the engine and the trans was working quite well… now it wont even move! I might switch the old harness back to see if that cures it. More work tomorrow, stay tuned.

 

Got it! ended up being the kickdown cable! the dam cable was not seated correctly in the trans which ment there was not enough line pressure to move the truck... ugg!

now on to the brake line! heading out for the brake line right now! Whooo!!!

 

Nevermind.... Preemptive celebration on my part. the kickdown cable reposition helped but once the truck runs for about 1-2 min I lose all drive and reverse engagement... pretty much the truck is in “neutral” in 2, 3, D, N and R (seriously! It rolls backward at 3000 rpm in DRIVE on a hill!). I will try a Manual shift test tomorrow, followed by a harness volt test, and solenoid test per FSM tomorrow.... hell... I might even start a thread in the tech section! HAHA!

 

Well, I got around to doing the Manual shift test today and guess what..... IT FAILED! what this means is there is a MECHANICAL failure in the transmission not an "easy fix" ELECTRICAL problem. I am so bummed out right now... so close but soooo far away at the same time. Engine is running good but the dam truck now can’t move. Uggg....

I think I’m going to look around for a 5 speed swap on craigslist and YT because I really do not want to drop a slush box just to install another slush box. I already have the v6 and the towing package 4:88's so a five speed should be quite perky of a drive if I can find one. But to be honest unless I can find one for in the $250 range the truck is going to have to sit more since I cannot stretch much more.

OH FORGOT!!! Just to kick the guy while he is down I've had the flu for 2 weeks....

Whatever.... just take inventory and move forward… right? On to the very elusive "cheap 5-speed swap" hunt! HAHA!

 

Got it! After one last ditch effort for the Trans I decided to check the pickup screen to see if somehow it was clogged and low and behold... it was! I went through and cleaned the screen and the pan and it is moving fine! Its official the truck is now back in business! Now I’m back on track from here on out to actually MOD! HAHA!!

 

As a first gen owner...I must repossess your inclinometer.

Toyota law dictates... "The second gen owner shall not possess or install
an inclinometer in thier runner."

Sorry...its the law. Send it to me to avoid fines.

 

ROFL!

If it makes you feel better since this pic my dash cracked.... that counts as a "2nd Gen Clino Fine"