4x4Lamm's 1995 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#101
Originally Posted by Turd Ferguson
Hey Lamm, 2 things- your Maglite and fire extinguisher- are they mounted through the mats into the sheet metal, or just to the mats?
And didja have to upgrade your alternator to handle the extra load from all the extra electronics (light bar, etc.)??
Nice looking ride, BTW. Hope my 4Runner looks that nice when I'm done...
And didja have to upgrade your alternator to handle the extra load from all the extra electronics (light bar, etc.)??
Nice looking ride, BTW. Hope my 4Runner looks that nice when I'm done...
My stock alternator is doing well, my emergency lights only draw about 20 amps. Most of them are LEDs, then strobe and only 4, 27 watt halogen flashers.
I do plan on a Mr. Alternator high output model soon though for other things.
Lamm
#103
Originally Posted by 4x4nala
I like the fire ext there, does the seat hit it when you move it? I might put mine there on the pass side. I am going to put the mag light between the door and the seat...
Lamm
#105
MOD #8 (Emergency Warning Package)
I work as a firefighter/EMT for a living. The department I belong to is what is called a combination department, meaning that we have some people on paid duty, and for larger incidents people respond from home to the station.
If you so choose, you can have your vehicle inspected and liscensed by the state fire marshall's office as an emergency vehicle. Then you can add lights and a siren so you can run "hot" or "code 3" to respond to calls. I live kind of far away from the fire station, and will take any excuse I can get to mod my 4x4, so here is what I did.
As far as lighting:
-Whelen Mini Edge lightbar, 4 red strobes, 2 flashing takedown lights, 2 flashing alley lights, magnetic mounting, double flash on the strobes.
-2 Whelen TIR3 LEDs on the front of my TJM bumper, red, flashing simultaneous signel alert.
-2 NOVA SLMINI LEDs on the sides of my TJM bumper, red, flashing deciblast.
-Whelen 60 watt hide-a-way strobe system, 2 tubes in front corner lights, 2 tubes in rear tail lights (red portion), flashing action flash.
-4 Whelen TIR3 LEDs mounted above rear wind deflector on right angle aluminum, 2 red, 2 amber flashing a simultaneous/alternating red/amber double flash.
-Whelen MM LED slimlighter mounter at rear view mirror level inside the cab, red in color, flashing moduflash.
For audible warning:
-Sho Me 100 Watt 4 tone siren (wail, yelp. phaser, airhorn) with air horn also wired into stock steering wheel horn circut.
-Whelen SA134P 100 watt siren speaker mounted inside TJM bumper with the universal bracket.
All the componets are controlled with a custom switch pannel I made below my CD player. Wail and yelp are selected with the red rocker switch, phaser and air horn with the black, momentary toggle switch. All the lights are switch with the red, duckbill toggle switches. Everything except the lightbar is direct wired, the lightbar uses a Hella fused relay. The air horn tone in the siren is also activated by pressing on the steering wheel, much better than the stock tin can horns.
Everything is powerd through my aux. equipment wiring harness.
This stuff is not very interesting to most, so if I left something out ask me about it, I know there are some other firefighters on the board though so I thought I would share.
Here are the pics, none of the strobe lights showed up, they just flash too fast to capture, I may shoot video and post it...

Here is the switch plate I fabricated, it works well and looks pretty good.

Here is the Mini Edge lightbar from above and behind.

Here it is from the side.

Here is the siren speaker inside the TJM.

Here it is again.

Here is where the hide-a-way strobe power supply is mounted.

Here is where the siren amp and factory alarm brain is mounted.

These are the front TIR3s.

Here is a close up.

Here are the NOVA LEDs, intersectors!

Here is the Whelen Slimlighter. I also had to ditch the stock mirror for a cheap aftermarket one for the sake of fittment.

Here is the Slimlighter from from the outside.

Here are the rear TIR3s I custom mounted.

A close up.

Here is another view.

Here is the backside of them, a little sloppy, I need to re-wire them better.

Here is the power cable for them, inside 1/4" split loom.
NOW HERE ARE THE LIGHTS IN ACTION!







:fireman: Lamm
If you so choose, you can have your vehicle inspected and liscensed by the state fire marshall's office as an emergency vehicle. Then you can add lights and a siren so you can run "hot" or "code 3" to respond to calls. I live kind of far away from the fire station, and will take any excuse I can get to mod my 4x4, so here is what I did.
As far as lighting:
-Whelen Mini Edge lightbar, 4 red strobes, 2 flashing takedown lights, 2 flashing alley lights, magnetic mounting, double flash on the strobes.
-2 Whelen TIR3 LEDs on the front of my TJM bumper, red, flashing simultaneous signel alert.
-2 NOVA SLMINI LEDs on the sides of my TJM bumper, red, flashing deciblast.
-Whelen 60 watt hide-a-way strobe system, 2 tubes in front corner lights, 2 tubes in rear tail lights (red portion), flashing action flash.
-4 Whelen TIR3 LEDs mounted above rear wind deflector on right angle aluminum, 2 red, 2 amber flashing a simultaneous/alternating red/amber double flash.
-Whelen MM LED slimlighter mounter at rear view mirror level inside the cab, red in color, flashing moduflash.
For audible warning:
-Sho Me 100 Watt 4 tone siren (wail, yelp. phaser, airhorn) with air horn also wired into stock steering wheel horn circut.
-Whelen SA134P 100 watt siren speaker mounted inside TJM bumper with the universal bracket.
All the componets are controlled with a custom switch pannel I made below my CD player. Wail and yelp are selected with the red rocker switch, phaser and air horn with the black, momentary toggle switch. All the lights are switch with the red, duckbill toggle switches. Everything except the lightbar is direct wired, the lightbar uses a Hella fused relay. The air horn tone in the siren is also activated by pressing on the steering wheel, much better than the stock tin can horns.
Everything is powerd through my aux. equipment wiring harness.
This stuff is not very interesting to most, so if I left something out ask me about it, I know there are some other firefighters on the board though so I thought I would share.
Here are the pics, none of the strobe lights showed up, they just flash too fast to capture, I may shoot video and post it...

Here is the switch plate I fabricated, it works well and looks pretty good.

Here is the Mini Edge lightbar from above and behind.

Here it is from the side.

Here is the siren speaker inside the TJM.

Here it is again.

Here is where the hide-a-way strobe power supply is mounted.

Here is where the siren amp and factory alarm brain is mounted.

These are the front TIR3s.

Here is a close up.

Here are the NOVA LEDs, intersectors!

Here is the Whelen Slimlighter. I also had to ditch the stock mirror for a cheap aftermarket one for the sake of fittment.

Here is the Slimlighter from from the outside.

Here are the rear TIR3s I custom mounted.

A close up.

Here is another view.

Here is the backside of them, a little sloppy, I need to re-wire them better.

Here is the power cable for them, inside 1/4" split loom.
NOW HERE ARE THE LIGHTS IN ACTION!







:fireman: Lamm
Last edited by 4x4Lamm; Apr 17, 2006 at 06:54 AM.
#107
Originally Posted by 4x4nala
pretty slick...I need to get more lights, not ones like you have, but standard white lights of each side and the rear, would be great for setting up camp a o'dark:30
I like the ARB adventure light too.
Lamm
#109
Originally Posted by 4x4nala
I noticed you went with dual CB antennas, is one just for show? I have heard that having two that close has less reception that one?
I'm not an antenna expert by any means, so I don't know about the reception or 2 vs. 1.
Lamm
#111
My Lift and Suspension
I went through many possible options before I came to a final solution.
I decided on:
-Downey HD rear lift kit
-Sway-A-Way 25mm torsion bars with crank
-OME shocks front and rear
-OME steering damper
Downey seemed to have the best all inclusive kit for a rear lift. The kit included coils, a stainless brake line and the necessary brackets to keep the LSPV and ABS in check. The price was good too.
Many people do not care for Sway-A-Way torsion bars (or any HD torsion bar) but I had them before in my 92 4Runner and liked them. I am not setting out to make a flex maching, so the heavy duty nature is a non-issue. They make for excellent street handling. I am amazed at how stable my 4Runner is through turns and on freeway ramps. I sometimes have to do some high-speed driving in my 4Runner for work, so for me it was much more important to have a stable street ride than a flexy trail ride. I went through Performance Products to get mine.
Old MAn Emu (OME by ARB) makes a superior product. It may not be cheap, and certainly is not "hard core" enough for a lot of 4x4s, but for me they are perfect. The shocks are slightly longer, for a slight lift and have amazing dampening qualities. I used to have Rancho RS5000s, the difference is night and day.
The steering damper works just as well too. There is a noticible difference in the feel of the wheel. I went through trdparts4u.com (strapp22/Phill) to get my OME stuff, great price and fast shipping.
I had my normal mechanic do the lift work on my 4Runner, so I cannot tell you about the installation. I ended up paying less than $400 to have everything put on and I had some other work done at the time as well.
Overall, I am very pleased with this lift setup. You just have to be sure to get an alighnment after you adjust torsion bars. I took mine in for the 50N recall the day after it was lifted, the alighnment rack printout was funny to say the least.
The ride is a little rough in bumps, but I orderd the HD springs so I could haul 4 buddies and camping gear, not sip my mocho-chino-latte-frappa-coffe while driving over railroad tracks without spilling it.
Any questions, feel free to ask. I will be posting some pre and post numbers soon as well.
Here is a quick before and after.
Before Lift:

After Lift:

Lamm
I decided on:
-Downey HD rear lift kit
-Sway-A-Way 25mm torsion bars with crank
-OME shocks front and rear
-OME steering damper
Downey seemed to have the best all inclusive kit for a rear lift. The kit included coils, a stainless brake line and the necessary brackets to keep the LSPV and ABS in check. The price was good too.
Many people do not care for Sway-A-Way torsion bars (or any HD torsion bar) but I had them before in my 92 4Runner and liked them. I am not setting out to make a flex maching, so the heavy duty nature is a non-issue. They make for excellent street handling. I am amazed at how stable my 4Runner is through turns and on freeway ramps. I sometimes have to do some high-speed driving in my 4Runner for work, so for me it was much more important to have a stable street ride than a flexy trail ride. I went through Performance Products to get mine.
Old MAn Emu (OME by ARB) makes a superior product. It may not be cheap, and certainly is not "hard core" enough for a lot of 4x4s, but for me they are perfect. The shocks are slightly longer, for a slight lift and have amazing dampening qualities. I used to have Rancho RS5000s, the difference is night and day.
The steering damper works just as well too. There is a noticible difference in the feel of the wheel. I went through trdparts4u.com (strapp22/Phill) to get my OME stuff, great price and fast shipping.
I had my normal mechanic do the lift work on my 4Runner, so I cannot tell you about the installation. I ended up paying less than $400 to have everything put on and I had some other work done at the time as well.
Overall, I am very pleased with this lift setup. You just have to be sure to get an alighnment after you adjust torsion bars. I took mine in for the 50N recall the day after it was lifted, the alighnment rack printout was funny to say the least.
The ride is a little rough in bumps, but I orderd the HD springs so I could haul 4 buddies and camping gear, not sip my mocho-chino-latte-frappa-coffe while driving over railroad tracks without spilling it.
Any questions, feel free to ask. I will be posting some pre and post numbers soon as well.
Here is a quick before and after.
Before Lift:

After Lift:

Lamm
Last edited by 4x4Lamm; Apr 19, 2006 at 07:53 PM.
#112
Roof Rack, On and Off...
I always liked the look of roof racks so a few years back I purchased a 45"x50" aluminum Surco Safari Rack.
It is very well made, and quite strong and light. The price is one of the best in the market as well. Surco also offers several useful accessory brackets and mounts for the racks as well. I purchased mine through J C Whitney.
After my 92 burned up the Surco rack was one of my salvadged pieces so I promptly installed it on my 95. It sat higher due to the use of the Surco brand mounts vs. my custom mounts on the 92, but still looked great and was solid as a rock.
After a few months though, I decided that it was not going to work out for me to well. I wanted a lower profile look for the roof and was hunting for a little better gas mileage, and honestly I almost never used it. So off it came and now it is for sale. BUY ME! $150.00!!!
So now I have a mostly flat roof (I have a small lightbar and the stock cross slats installed still) and I am loving it. It fits in more parking garages and such and overall I just think it looks better.
I am looking though for a more narrow and low profile rack I could use. Something like a Valley Industry roof rack, or maybe I will use square aluminum tube and a chop saw to make one. Who knows...
For now though, it's off and up for sale. Here are some pics,

1992 4Runner with Surco rack and 4 100 watt lights.

1995 4Runner without Surco rack or OEM coss bars.

1995 4Runner with OEM crossbars.

1995 4Runner with Surco rack.

1995 4Runner as it sits now.
Lamm
It is very well made, and quite strong and light. The price is one of the best in the market as well. Surco also offers several useful accessory brackets and mounts for the racks as well. I purchased mine through J C Whitney.
After my 92 burned up the Surco rack was one of my salvadged pieces so I promptly installed it on my 95. It sat higher due to the use of the Surco brand mounts vs. my custom mounts on the 92, but still looked great and was solid as a rock.
After a few months though, I decided that it was not going to work out for me to well. I wanted a lower profile look for the roof and was hunting for a little better gas mileage, and honestly I almost never used it. So off it came and now it is for sale. BUY ME! $150.00!!!
So now I have a mostly flat roof (I have a small lightbar and the stock cross slats installed still) and I am loving it. It fits in more parking garages and such and overall I just think it looks better.
I am looking though for a more narrow and low profile rack I could use. Something like a Valley Industry roof rack, or maybe I will use square aluminum tube and a chop saw to make one. Who knows...
For now though, it's off and up for sale. Here are some pics,

1992 4Runner with Surco rack and 4 100 watt lights.

1995 4Runner without Surco rack or OEM coss bars.

1995 4Runner with OEM crossbars.

1995 4Runner with Surco rack.

1995 4Runner as it sits now.
Lamm
Last edited by 4x4Lamm; Apr 19, 2006 at 08:23 PM.
#113
Electrical Harness Part 1
As someone who has oodles of lights and other electronic things on my truck, here is what I did:

It's hard to see, but there is a 100 amp circut breaker on the inside of the fender. This recives power from a SHORT 4 AWG cable coming off the Optima's side posts and sends power out via another 4 AG cable.

This 4 AWG cable goes to a junction stud near he barke master cylinder where it is split 8 ways into a Hella Aux. Fuse Block. I still need to clean up the wires going out of the fuse box.
The return pate is similer, I have 2 underhood junction studs connected with 4 AWG and 10 AWG cables to the Optima's negetive side post (soory no pic)
With this setup, every circut is protected with its own fuse of your choice and the main power line is protected with the circut breaker. Also, unlike a large in-line fuse, if something is going haywire, I can open the circut breaker in a moments notice with the push of a button.
I also have a setup for 4 fused relays for high amp draws, but also, sorry no pics as of now.
Fused relay setup will coming soon.
Lamm

It's hard to see, but there is a 100 amp circut breaker on the inside of the fender. This recives power from a SHORT 4 AWG cable coming off the Optima's side posts and sends power out via another 4 AG cable.

This 4 AWG cable goes to a junction stud near he barke master cylinder where it is split 8 ways into a Hella Aux. Fuse Block. I still need to clean up the wires going out of the fuse box.
The return pate is similer, I have 2 underhood junction studs connected with 4 AWG and 10 AWG cables to the Optima's negetive side post (soory no pic)
With this setup, every circut is protected with its own fuse of your choice and the main power line is protected with the circut breaker. Also, unlike a large in-line fuse, if something is going haywire, I can open the circut breaker in a moments notice with the push of a button.
I also have a setup for 4 fused relays for high amp draws, but also, sorry no pics as of now.
Fused relay setup will coming soon.
Lamm
Last edited by 4x4Lamm; Jun 26, 2006 at 08:46 PM.
#114
Dude, your setup is so similar to some of the things I've done, it's amazin!
But yours is cleaner. I would be ashamed to show what I have on the boards.
Having said that, and having more financial freedom in sight (Most major bills including the truck payment are going to be gone within the next year), I plan to revisit every mod I've done. I'll be hitting you up with some questions, as you have a few components that I wanted, but was not able to find/afford when I threw my stuff together.
Good job!
But yours is cleaner. I would be ashamed to show what I have on the boards.
Having said that, and having more financial freedom in sight (Most major bills including the truck payment are going to be gone within the next year), I plan to revisit every mod I've done. I'll be hitting you up with some questions, as you have a few components that I wanted, but was not able to find/afford when I threw my stuff together.
Good job!
#115
Originally Posted by Injohneer
Dude, your setup is so similar to some of the things I've done, it's amazin!
But yours is cleaner. I would be ashamed to show what I have on the boards.
Having said that, and having more financial freedom in sight (Most major bills including the truck payment are going to be gone within the next year), I plan to revisit every mod I've done. I'll be hitting you up with some questions, as you have a few components that I wanted, but was not able to find/afford when I threw my stuff together.
Good job!
But yours is cleaner. I would be ashamed to show what I have on the boards.
Having said that, and having more financial freedom in sight (Most major bills including the truck payment are going to be gone within the next year), I plan to revisit every mod I've done. I'll be hitting you up with some questions, as you have a few components that I wanted, but was not able to find/afford when I threw my stuff together.
Good job!
Don't hesitate to ask me anything. One of my first posts on Yotatech was "Where can I buy front coil spacers?", LOL, I did not even know my 92 4Runner had torsion bars up front. So, remembering where I came from, I take great pride in being able to help others along.
Thanks again,
Lamm
#116
OME or Downey coils
I like the amount of lift you have in the back. do you think that the ome coils raise higher than that?
I am about to get the option 2 OME setup but still debating between OME vs. downey coils. I don't like runners with a huge lift in back- yours seems to be just about right.
do you think that the OME/Downey coil setup is just about the same height?
thanks
T
I am about to get the option 2 OME setup but still debating between OME vs. downey coils. I don't like runners with a huge lift in back- yours seems to be just about right.
do you think that the OME/Downey coil setup is just about the same height?
thanks
T
#117
Originally Posted by taikowaza
I like the amount of lift you have in the back. do you think that the ome coils raise higher than that?
I am about to get the option 2 OME setup but still debating between OME vs. downey coils. I don't like runners with a huge lift in back- yours seems to be just about right.
do you think that the OME/Downey coil setup is just about the same height?
thanks
T
I am about to get the option 2 OME setup but still debating between OME vs. downey coils. I don't like runners with a huge lift in back- yours seems to be just about right.
do you think that the OME/Downey coil setup is just about the same height?
thanks
T
I can't say for sure as I never had OME coils, just shocks.
If you can get some measurments from somebody with 32's and OME coils I can cross check it with my 4Runner to answer your question.
I have also been told that the OME medium duty coils will level your runner, and the OME HDs will LIFT the back some. Downey coils LIFTED the back on mine.
Lamm
#119
Whats up next?
Here is a teaser for you guys. I have currently installed/sitting in my garage/on the way the following:
-BCC rear bumper with intigrated hella back-up lamps, hitch and shackles
-Marlin Crawler rock sliders
-Uniden BC350C Scanner
-NWOR Skidplate
-Sirius SV1 sat radio
-Warn hubs
-Clear corners
-Rear husky liner
-Hella 220 amber fog lights x2
-Hella micro FF driving lights x2
-KC 26 series long range lights x4
-Lowrance Ifinder pro GPS with pro-fit/RAM mount and external antenna
-Some paint/body work
-A tune up of sorts, (O2 sensor, cap, rotor, fuel filter and wires)
-BVG roof basket
And I wonder why I'm broke
Look for a big report on all these mods soon.
Lamm
-BCC rear bumper with intigrated hella back-up lamps, hitch and shackles
-Marlin Crawler rock sliders
-Uniden BC350C Scanner
-NWOR Skidplate
-Sirius SV1 sat radio
-Warn hubs
-Clear corners
-Rear husky liner
-Hella 220 amber fog lights x2
-Hella micro FF driving lights x2
-KC 26 series long range lights x4
-Lowrance Ifinder pro GPS with pro-fit/RAM mount and external antenna
-Some paint/body work
-A tune up of sorts, (O2 sensor, cap, rotor, fuel filter and wires)
-BVG roof basket
And I wonder why I'm broke
Look for a big report on all these mods soon.
Lamm
Last edited by 4x4Lamm; Jun 29, 2006 at 04:22 PM.
#120
MOD#9, Sliders!
I went with the cheap Marlin Crawler sliders.
Cost $100 plus $50 shipping for the set. Tubes are HREW .120" wall, 1.75" diameter. The legs come pre-notched but detached so you have to be pretty good with a welder to get em' on right.
I enlisted the help of Formula Toy (now baned). Mark (F-Toy) and his pal Vince invited me to the shop near where my brother lives in Columbus for the install. I brought 24 bottles of Bud as payment
He is quite a nice guy. He did a great job and even hooked me up with some scab plates and used some of his own tubing to make longer legs for the sliders where the frame cuts in twords the front of the 4Runner so they would stick out more.
The sliders are installed "East-Coast" style, stick out past tires, slightly off-set to the front and with a step friendly cant.
The passed the Hi-Lift test with a WAB-FAB slider adapter (not mine) and saved my butt on my last wheeling trip.
I finished them by preping them for paint then each slider got 1 can of Duplicolor self etching primer, a coat or POR-15 and a can of Krylon heavy duty medium black. I then applied strips of 2" grip tape to the tops to avoid slips.
The Duplicolor self-etching primer ROCKS! After some slider action last wheeling trip it was the only layer of paint to survive on some spots.
I love my sliders. They make a good step, the look great, they make a good recovery/jacking point and they provide off-road protection and piece of mind like non other, highly recomended.








Lamm
Cost $100 plus $50 shipping for the set. Tubes are HREW .120" wall, 1.75" diameter. The legs come pre-notched but detached so you have to be pretty good with a welder to get em' on right.
I enlisted the help of Formula Toy (now baned). Mark (F-Toy) and his pal Vince invited me to the shop near where my brother lives in Columbus for the install. I brought 24 bottles of Bud as payment
He is quite a nice guy. He did a great job and even hooked me up with some scab plates and used some of his own tubing to make longer legs for the sliders where the frame cuts in twords the front of the 4Runner so they would stick out more.
The sliders are installed "East-Coast" style, stick out past tires, slightly off-set to the front and with a step friendly cant.
The passed the Hi-Lift test with a WAB-FAB slider adapter (not mine) and saved my butt on my last wheeling trip.
I finished them by preping them for paint then each slider got 1 can of Duplicolor self etching primer, a coat or POR-15 and a can of Krylon heavy duty medium black. I then applied strips of 2" grip tape to the tops to avoid slips.
The Duplicolor self-etching primer ROCKS! After some slider action last wheeling trip it was the only layer of paint to survive on some spots.
I love my sliders. They make a good step, the look great, they make a good recovery/jacking point and they provide off-road protection and piece of mind like non other, highly recomended.








Lamm
Last edited by 4x4Lamm; Aug 7, 2006 at 07:50 PM.


