Ok so I'll probably be picking up that parts truck tomorrow. Is $1500 anywhere near reasonable? The motor has a knock, but it runs. The transmission and transfer case are supposed to be good. The frame is real solid. The body is rough and the interior is pretty much worthless.

I'm going to pull the motor, tranny and transfer case, the IFS steering box, the IFS hubs, the 3rd member and maybe axle housing (it's wider right?), the rear leafs, and whatever else I can find worth pulling.

I don't mind rebuilding the motor as I would like more power than any stock 22RE based motor would give.

As for power, what has to be done to RETs to make more? I know they need a different turbo (LCE has a conversion kit to convert to a CT25), and that's about it.

 

Dont bother with the turbo, Its not worth the time go for 3rz or 3.4l allot easier and in the long run allot less and allot more reliable and allot better fuel,

the ret's need the turbo computer and injectors its allot, allot more to do and allot more to go wrong. if you want power install something newer with obd2 so you can actually tune it just my opinion

 

I picked up a near complete 1989 22re running driving for 390. i drove it on the trailer. i bought my 1981 for 500 i got a 81 2wd for 100. 1500 for a beater sounds like some desperate kid trying to get a hunk of Gold for a chunk of cole

 

idk theres alot of good parts I doubt ill find another turbo 22re around here for awhile.

 

So I broke my hand about 2 weeks ago and I haven't been able to work on my truck at all. It's almost healed up enough that I can start again, maybe next week or the one after. the rear section of frame I built is too crooked for my liking, so I'm going to cut it back off with a chopsaw this time so the cuts are square. I'm also going to try to get good measurements this time, and mark my cuts with a hacksaw instead of chalk. I want to get it turned back into a roller soon.

 

Sorry to hear about your hand, I'm sure that's tough to deal with not having any use of it for a while . I know what you mean about having to cut stuff loose because its not lining up. I had to cut and redo my rear shackle hangers three times to get them right.

 

Alright, so I got myself a parts truck.

22RTE that needs a rod-bearing
R151F transmission
transfer case
Rear leaf springs
mirror and cab-light
IFS steering box
Gas tank
Toyota Turbo EFI badges (Yes, I'm seriously stoked about these.)

That's most of the stuff I'm taking off of it. The frame is real good so I'm probably going to sell it for a few hundred.




I had to pick it up from inside the cab to unload it from the trailer, wasn't fun.

 

I like the roll bar on the back.

 

What would you trade for that roll bar? Kansas ain't hat far.

 

I don't know, what do ya got? Also I don't know if the rollbar would actually do anything in a rollover. I haven't really looked at it.

Edit: Playing around with the transmission it seemed to shift smooth. I'm going to start the truck up sometime just to see if it really is a rod knock. Should I run a compression test and stuff to see if I could get away with just replacing the rod bearing, or should I just pull the engine and have it rebuilt anyways. (I'm not sure I want to do it myself).

 

I think those things are just for holding lights anyway, hell you can carry them with one hand. I have to go toward Wichita to pick up a wheat drill sometime soon if want to sell it let me know, if that's in your area anyway.

 

You are correct on the 'roll' bar. The majority of the time they only work for mounting lights and antennas

 

Inpinions?

I don't think it's fair that you couldn't even hear the knock on mine unless you were looking for it, but on this one it's so loud that you know something's wrong.

 

That sounds like a bad rocker pad to me. Pad is loose beating on cam.
Pop that valve cover off and check to see if any rockers have loose pads and check timing chain guides.

 

Yeah that would make sense. I don't think it would be the timing chain as it speeds up in synch with the engine revs. I will probably take a look under the valve cover when I get a chance though.

 

Yea that is a top end knock for sure! Even if you have to rebuild the whole head your stoked.
Pull the head, new head gasket, new head bolts, rebuild and port head.
Swap that puppy in..

 

This video I found sounds more like a rod knock I'd guess. It's deeper sounding and it doesn't make a rattly sound when he revs it.

Edit: Marlin short throw shifter and marlin tranny and trans case knobs will go on my truck.

 

It's kinda hard to hear on my video but there's also a lower end knock. The top end knock just overpowers it.

I'm thinking I could pull the motor from that truck, rebuild it, then swap it back in to tune it. So that way it's all ready come time to put it in my truck. Also, are there any differences between RE and RET heads? Or is it just the block? Would a good ported/cammed head help get me more power vs. stock head and more boost?

I know you need to intercool it if you want to get decent amounts of boost. I'm also thinking about putting a SteedSpeed manifold and Garrett T3/T4 turbo on after I get my truck on the road.

 

Takes 5min to pull that valve cover....go do it and wiggle them rockers...turn the motor over with a socket on the crank pulley...( coil wire removed for safety) When the valves close...wiggle that rocker and see if its the pad on rocker....bet it is.

 

There's noise coming from the top end but there's also a deeper knock coming from the bottom.