'87 Pickup Partout
#21
There should be NO moisture in a charged working system. The line dryer is good for removing a little but there should be none. Just as Jethro mentioned major problem with corrosion. Charging the system with nitrogen not only removes the moisture carrying atmospheric air it allows the tech to check for a drop in pressure. If it holds, pull a vacuum and then charge it.
PM'd you. I sure want the set up. Would you include the vsv and any wiring or at least pictures. Since I do not have A/C on my truck I want to be double sure.
I do see the wiring on my truck under the dash by the heater box. I did the heater core a few months ago along with the auto/man conversion and noticed wires, on my intake there is one wire That looks like it plugs on a spade that is unused. Please include the relay and basically every part that the a/c needs. I mentioned the facia, what I meant is the face plate for the heater controls. I messed mine up pretty good when it was off while I did the heater core job.
PM'd you. I sure want the set up. Would you include the vsv and any wiring or at least pictures. Since I do not have A/C on my truck I want to be double sure.
I do see the wiring on my truck under the dash by the heater box. I did the heater core a few months ago along with the auto/man conversion and noticed wires, on my intake there is one wire That looks like it plugs on a spade that is unused. Please include the relay and basically every part that the a/c needs. I mentioned the facia, what I meant is the face plate for the heater controls. I messed mine up pretty good when it was off while I did the heater core job.
Last edited by gottadog; Sep 24, 2012 at 06:50 PM.
#22
good to know, so if i pull one from a junk yard look for one that's still charged.
#23
Or at least still closed. I doubt a yard would have a charged a/c. Condenser is always a good thing to replace, as well as the line dryer. I work in the hvac field. We have a few different options of flush to help clean out old oils and crud. I have to see if they are compatible with r-134a. I'm most familiar with r-410a and r-22.
#24
Paypal sent for the A/C. Let me know before you ship the package. I might be able to get UPS labels made from my work and emailed or faxed to you. I get a very very good rate from UPS at work. Just give me dimension and weight per box.
Thank's Jeff
Thank's Jeff
#25
if I pay for the doors then pick them up later would that be cool? also can you send pictures to me of the doors??? I am willing to make the trip to pick them up!
#28
I don't have the manifold bolts, it stayed with the engine. The others though, you're better off to source locally, just for shipping costs.
Unless you want to buy the whole Power steering setup
Unless you want to buy the whole Power steering setup
#29
Added a few pictures of the doors & rockers here:
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...%20with%20cab/
Passenger rocker does have a rust hole. Drivers is solid, cab corners are decent (A little rust on back of cab, inside of body seam)
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...%20with%20cab/
Passenger rocker does have a rust hole. Drivers is solid, cab corners are decent (A little rust on back of cab, inside of body seam)
#30
Where are you located in Missouri? I am from the Springfield area and interested in some interior items. Do you still have the lid to the center console and shifter bezel/console?
#32
Original post updated. EFI stuff still available. This will include EVERYTHING, intake, electronics, harness, etc. Only KNOWN missing items will be fuel pump, lines, & air crossover tube
Transfer available as well. Shipping is usually 40-$50 on them.
Transfer available as well. Shipping is usually 40-$50 on them.
#33
would u happen to have a mechanical speedo cable and was that truck sr5 if so does it have the sr5 cluster? and shipping to 86327?
#38
How much would the sr5 cluster I saw in your pics be with shipping to 31019? Thanks.


