Yeah instead of raising the tie rod mounts, they lowered the steering link on this kit. Same idea, keep the tie rod angle factory. Funny I keep getting these steering link recall notices in the mail from Toyota, but they can't replace mine hehe.

 

33's are fine on an IFS truck.

You can break parts on any truck, just depends on how hard you drive it.

As for CV's: CV's are equivialent in strength to a stock birfield. Testing has been done, and they break at roughly the same torque settings. What makes a CV break more often than birfields is that they are put into high angle operation MUCH more often than a birfield.

Both birfs and CV's have a "range of acceptable operation". Meaning, that there are angles where the joint is strong, and can handle a fair amount of abuse.

On a birfield, you can only exceed these angles by turning the wheels to the steering stops. Hence why any one who's wheeled will tell a noob not to hit the gas hard, or try to climb a ledge with the wheels at full lock.

On a CV, you can hit those angles either by turning the wheel, or at full suspension droop. When a CV in stock form is fully drooped, it is right at the acceptable angles. Lifts, especially ball joint spacers, make this worse. With stock bumpstops and ball joint spacers, you are probably okay, but hard bounces will take them out. Suspension flex happens in offroading, ALL THE TIME. Thus, the number of situations where a CV can break is MUCH greater than a Birf.

Lastly, with regard to a 33x12.50 tire:

You will not have issue with the drive train unless you are heavy on the accelerator, or do the above mentioned turning while on the gas. You WILL crap steering parts like a lactose intolerant person on a 100% dairy diet. I broke a steering component EVERY trail run with 33x12.50s. I'm now running 33x9.50's, and I've busted one idler in a year and a half.

If you plan on running the 33x12.50's, buy the brass idler arm bushings that are offered by a company here, along with the downey brace, pictured above. Replace all of your ball joints and tie rod ends, since they are likely worn out, and with expensive tires, you don't want to wear them prematurely.

Good luck.

 

Not u joints. Constant Velocity joints, hence the "CV"

CV (note it is the same as a birfield)





U joint or universal joint(this is what is found typically on a domestic axle, or many driveshaft ends)

 

^^^^^^^ Good Post AxleIke

 

nice graphic

 

oh geez, we had to get freak'n technical about it, lol

must be why the name's AxleIke huh

but your right, my apologies for the misuse of words


nice gfx btw, I might have to save those for another day!

 

I think the other thing to keep in mind is that 33's aren't going to give you much of an advantage over 32's or even 31's for that matter. If your wheeling more technical terrain I'd invest in lockers and armor and keep the driveline close to OEM.

 

Uh - no. If you actually take your truck offroad, that 0.5" - 1" extra clearance under the axles is critical, and the only way to get it is with taller tires.

If your truck came with 31's and therefore has the 4.56 or 4.88, you'll be pretty good up to 33's. While regearing will make a big difference, the truck is perfectly driveable that little bit undergeared.

 

Yeah, it sure makes it a lot easier if you aren't bashing the diffs on rocks all the time.

 

I am currently running 33x12.50 on my IFS. After I put the heavier tires on I noticed that my front end wasn't in the best shape also with 250K on it, I am sure that didn't help at all. I ended up replaceing the upper and lower ball joints, the brass bushings that are inside of the rotor, and thanks to the Toyota recall they replaced the inner, outer tierods and the centerlink.But I will aggree with others on here, get the brace from downey. I don't have one but it is my 2nd priority when I get back. (engine is 1st). Also remember you can't abuse the IFS like you can a solid axel. I hope this helps you out.

Laterz
Jeremy

 

A half inch really isn't a marked difference, just pick a different line. Geez.

 

A 1/2 inch can be the difference between getting over a rock clean, or ripping out your drain plug!

 

Most guys would kill to have an extra inch


































Diff clearance is never a bad thing.