4banginRunner

Here's the rundown:

Vehicle -
87 4Runner 22RE
W56 swap (was originally an auto)
SASed
Harness is stock 87 auto with the NSS jumped.

Motor -
1994 TBI 4.3 out of an S10 p/u
Custom chopped early 90s 5.7 TBI harness with a 7747 ECM (truck was a K2500 350/5spd)
Not running AC
Motor doesn't have to have emissions crap, but if I can keep it easily I will.

AA adapter to W56, also have AA bolt in 4cyl to Chevy motor mounts.


NOW the questions!
- Fuel lines!
I get that I need to up the return to 5/16 and the feed to 3/8. How are you swapped guys getting from inside the tank out? I'd think just going from the stock toyota size on top of the tank and upping it would just defeat the purpose of doing such? Did you cut the old out and drill a new hole, run the line and solider/weld the line to the top of the ring on the tank?
Are compression fittings a bad idea when TBI only needs 15psi?

-Clutch disc
OK, AA says that their McLeod 10.5 Diameter 1-1/8 21 Spline Clutch Disc (P/N 716105) is custom made for them. My question, will a clutch out of a 3.4 Taco work? They are 1-1/8 21 spline (toy input shaft) but are 9-7/8, also half the price. $114 for the McLeod isn't going to break the bank, but just looking for a less expensive option.

-Exhaust
Planning on using stock s10 manifolds. I'll make the rest. Just wondering if the s10 manifolds are gunna dump somewhere where they shouldn't.

-Oil filter
Destroyed the s10 remote set-up when I got the motor. Got the spin-on adapter off a 350. Any clearance issues with the oil filter on the block?
There will be more questions as things progress. Just trying to get things in a row before I have another year of downtime with this rig

GVX

Fuel lines : use a stock TBI fuel pump and I hope your fab skills are up to some brazing a couple tubes into the original toyota fuel pump unit.

Clutch disc: use a 5.0 or a 4.3 flywheel and the stock gm pressure plate and the toyota disk will be fine even tho it will take a little less abuse than the 10.5 AA disk (less surface area)

Exhaust: I am not posative on the exhaust but I am reasonably sure the S10 manifolds will clear but if you have a clearance issue it will be the torsion bars

Oil filter: should be no problem I used the car (short) oil filter the truck (long) oil filter hit the drivers side diff mount

Starter: you may have clearance issues with the starter I used a high torque race car starter I bought it used from a nascar shop in north Carolina. I am sure there are other alternatives like a later S10 or Blazer like a 1999 to 2003?

Oil pan clearance: take a big ball peen hammer and beat the passenger front corner in , cut the corner off and weld a plate in, do a 2" or 3" differential suspension drop, or do an SAS

Tach: Hook your tach wire directly to the black trigger side of your coil and if you take your instrument cluster out remove your tach and you will find a adjustable potentiometer on the back and you can play around with it and calibrate the tach

Radiator: a 3.0 Toyota V6 radiator should be more than adequate for the 4.3

Power steering: I used the GM Saginaw punp and fabricated the lines using the GM lines and using the toyota lines steel tubing only that attached to the steering gear and tig'ed the two together

Accelerator cable: the Toyota worked fine just have to fab a mounting bracket

Temp sensor and oil Pressure sending unit: I used the original Toyota and used the original Toyota harness connectors I don't remember about any adapters but I think I just screwed them right into the GM block

Alternator: The Brown wir on th GM altinator works with the charge sense wire going to the Toyota gauge cluster for the battery light.

Suggestion If you do an SAS and get the torsion bars out of the way it will give you a whole lot more room for the exhaust and oil pan clearance. I also suggest you run a couple extra wires to the O2 sensor and use a 3 wire heated O2 sensor if it is using a 1 wire (The 2 extra wires are ignition power and Ground). A 3 " body lift can help with firewall clearance for the bell housing,fuel lines, and distributor.


I probably missed a few things but I hope this will give you a head start

james92toy

This is what i did.
Pull out toyota fuel pump , modify the bracket to hold gm pump.
Buy a good double flare brake line tool.
I left the stock fuel pressure line come out of the tank and along the frame for a foot or so. Cut line , slip on a 3/8 brake line fitting then flared the tube.
A napa auto store had a female fitting that screwed to the hard line fitting and was a hose barb on the other end.
The 5/16 hose i just slipped over the return line and hose clamped it.

Power steering hose.
Cut off toyota hose fittings.
Used the gm hose ,
Cut to length , slid on toyota fittings.
Use double flare tool again
Screw into toyota steering box

4banginRunner

Thank you both for your help, again, alot of the small stuff is ordered, just trying to get everything ready to swap at once (No garage )

james92toy

Need to use good fuel line , not cheap stuff . I used a brand called " weather head " hose can take around 200 psi and the fittings are the push lock kind that don't need clamps. Use stock gm sensors to wire to computer . Drill and tap intake for Toyota temp sensor then hook up to Toyota cab harness . Use " tee " fitting for oil sensor to use gm and Toyota , then wire Toyota sensor to cab harness .

You really need factory electral manuals for motor and Toyota .
Look on eBay .

Are you sure you want a tbi motor ?
They have about 160 hp stock .
A CPI like mine have 195 hp stock and get a little better mpg .
Think about going auto trany . I did and its great.

4banginRunner

I have both wiring diagrams
Yes wanted to keep it simple with the TBI, available at every junkyard anywhere and use the same parts from 2.8 V6 to 7.4 454.
Already have the AA bellhousing. Deadset on a stick, cant stand automatics.

Any idea what size the temp sensor is? Im assuming its not NPT.

Thanks for the info!

GVX

"Temp sensor and oil Pressure sending unit: I used the original Toyota and used the original Toyota harness connectors I don't remember about any adapters but I think I just screwed them right into the GM block
Aren't both temp & oil pressure needed in the TBI system? So you'd need to use GM stuff with GM stuff?"

Oil pressure isn't monitored by the ecm.
Yes correct you need the temp sensor for the ECM. Keep the GM temp sensor in the stock location in the intake, I used the toyota temp guage sending unit mounted it in the drivers side head for the temp guage

" Any idea what size the temp sensor is? Im assuming its not NPT."

I think it was a little different like a strait thread but it screwed in snugly and seated in the tapered hole with some Teflon thread tape to insure the seal it's been holding through the hottest part og the summer for over 6 months

james92toy

On my motor it needs oil pressure sensor for computer .
I thought I read after start up if the oil pressure stops it will shut off the fuel pump . So if you crash the pump won't keep dumping fuel everywhere.
On Start up the fuel pump will run for about 10 seconds before the ECM needs oil pressure input.

My temp sensor was strait thread . I don't rember the size . Take it and match it to a metric tap.

GVX

I have a 1989 model ECM and it looks for a tach input to keep the fuel pump running If there was an input for oil pressure on GM products there would have been a lot of engines saved from being run out of oil and trashing the crank. I have some International trucks that shut down in 30 seconds of 0 Lbs oil pressure It has saved me from buying engines dozens of times. I wished Chevrolet's were this way I remember a few years ago I had to do 2 454 tbi's in a year cause the drivers had there heads up there ass not doing there morning check off and saying they did