85TurboRunner

Any updates?

A co-worker offered me his 2000 Blazer for $700 today. Only issue is the reverse is out.

I might be diggin into this swap as well.

lgarduno

I have made a little progress on the truck. I have the motor and transmission mounted in there final locations. Now I am working on mounting the trans shifter and making a new center console. I will be wrapping it with sheet metal. I will be posting pics of it shortly.

zook4life

hows the build comming....

Bumpin' Yota

All chevy bellhousings are the same with the gen III/IV small blocks having an extra bolt hole at the top of the bell housing.

Advanced adapters has a chevy to toyota bellhousing but they want something like 500 for it.

lgarduno

Sorry I haven't posted to this much as I stalled out again. The wife thought it would be nice to take a 3 1/2 week vacation. I got most of the center console completed, I just need to make a shifter boot for the shifters. I decided to use the factory Blazer shifter along with modifying the stock tcase shifter to work with the NP241 tcase.

I am waiting on some answers from Jim's Performance on some wires that were cut in the harness. He left a very vague note on them. I need to know what they are and were they were connected. Once that is done I will be able to start turning over the motor.

Here is a pic of the center console. It is a camouflage paint scheme as my kids wanted to help paint. That would be the easiest way to paint it without having to worry about the quality.

lgarduno

Okay so I have most of this swap done and hit a snag. Maybe I don't know how to search for this answer or it doesn't exist. My harness has a wire that says it needs to be hooked to the brake pedal. From my knowledge this should be used for the torque converter, but which wire did everyone hook there's up to? I will post pics later today.

lgarduno

Okay so the new has been started but there are some issues now I must correct and are starting to bring down the moral. The only way that the truck will start is if I use starting fluid. It will stay running after that in an idle but any time that I give it gas it will die. I have put a pressure gauge on the fuel line and it is only showing 55psi. To me that seems way to low. I used the pump out of the 2001 Blazer that I got the motor out of. Any help to what may be causing the truck to not want to fire up without starting fluid?

And here is a shot of the engine in the truck.



Thanks

lgarduno

Okay so I fixed the fuel pressure by adding an inline Audi pump that is rated at 110psi and 60gph. After adding that it fired right up. I Ned to do a little work to the tcase but other than that it is streetable. Will get the exhaust donethis week and off to see the smog ref. Hee is a pic of it on the street for the first time in 2 years and a video of it running.



http://static.photobucket.com/player.../VIDEO0020.mp4

lgarduno

Just hit a major issue with the swap today. I FAILED the tech inspection due to my computer not wanting to talk to the ref. The truck does run very rough on the streets, but runs great on the highway. It acts like there is no low end and had a low voltage error to the 02 sensors. The ref said it would pass if he could talk to the computer. I am going to call Jim's Performance tomorrow and see what needs to be done as he was the one that modified the harness and flashed the ECM. If there is anything that you can think of please let me know. I will try to post a video of it in a few minutes.

YotaKid197

Does it have a speed sensor in it? also did Jims pull all of the egr stuff out of the computer?

and a question. why did you go with the audi pump? i am assuming but audi parts are not cheap and the E2000 high pressure pump off of the big block fords is rated at 90-100 psi and 35gph. thats what i run on my truck and you can get it at any parts store

hope it helps
Justin

edit: if you have and computer/wiring questions call Wayne hartwig 509-340-3911. he owns jeeperman and is a genious with all the vortec/Ls/Lt chevy motors. he tuned my computer and i love it

lgarduno

I went with the Audi pump as it was one of the only inline pumps that had the psi and gph that I would. It also helps that I got it for $35.00 a pump. I ordered two of them to make sure if one went out I would have a backup.

After talking to Jim's performance it sounds like the only things that he removed was the GM flash and the air pump for the fuel system. He says that I can send it back to him and he will add the GM flash back to it. I just don't understand why the ref needs it when he can see all of the neccasary sensors.