3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

Running issue

Old Jun 17, 2010 | 07:36 AM
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Running issue

OK, so swapped in a 97 3.4l with auto ecu into 89 4runner with a manual trans.
I'm just working the bugs out of my swap.
this thing seems to run great, but at 4000 rpm it cuts out. I've been thinking that my fuel pump isnt keeping up, but after several test Iv'e come to the conclusion that that, well my fuel pump and injectors probably are not up to snuff under extreme loads but they are not whats creating my running issue.
It really feels like im hitting a REV limiter.
some cars when in park will limit RPM's when your just in park. Do I need to trick my AUTO ECU in to thinking its in drive or neutral or something.
Let me know if you guys have had to do this. and if so...

which contacts on the park/neutral switch need to be conected. let me know thanks
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 03:19 PM
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im in the SAME boat.... i thought i had all the bugs worked out but its gutless and seems to have the exact same symptoms as yours.

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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Sounds like limp mode. Is the check engine light on? Got a code reader?
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 06:39 AM
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yep, the check engine light is on, I have a snap-on Modis code reader, the only code set are shift solenoid codes, which is fine.
Nobody out there running an AUTO ECU had to connect any of the neutral/park wires to trick the computer ?.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 06:46 AM
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There are a few guys that have. 904Runner for one that I know for sure has had his like that for over a year now I believe.

May want to PM him here, or I see him post at Pirate as well.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 10:33 AM
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bump.... still having these issues, still searching for answers
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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its my understanding that you have to trick the ecu into thinking its in N....
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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tricking the ecu into thinking its in neutral

Originally Posted by Tofer
its my understanding that you have to trick the ecu into thinking its in N....
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are people doing this just to bypass the neutral safety switch and send power to the starting solenoid or to cure a running issue due to having an auto ecu thinking it has a shifting issue.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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I used the shift indicator off of the side of the 97 auto. Plugged the original wiring into the indicator, made sure that it was in PARK, mounted the indicator under the 4Runner and it runs fine.
I do get the solenoid codes on the OBD2 scanner but this hasn't seemed to affect the way it runs.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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To fix solenoid codes use a 5 watt 10 ohm resistor. Connect one end to the solenoid wire, the other to ground. The resistor is about the same resistance as the coil in a solenoid, thus the ecu thinks a solenoid is connected.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:55 PM
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how many solenoids are there in the 340F tranny? You need a resistor on each one I assume?
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 02:52 AM
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Which wires (colors) do we need to put the resistors on?
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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Tricking auto ecm

What about the #2 speed sensor? Would that would trip the light also? Fix for that?
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 04:12 AM
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3 solenoids and 1 resister per solenoid.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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I hate starting new threads so im just going to ask for more help in this one. I did a 96 5vz auto ecu swap into my 90 3.0 5spd pickup. I kept the R150, and wired the STA and NSW pins together on the ecu. The tranny wasnt in the 4runner when I pulled the motor so I have no idea what gear the shifter was in etc. My motor starts and seems to rev up fine, but when driving doesnt seem to have any power and want to rev past 4grand. Im looking for ideas from others that have done the swap using an auto ecu with a 5spd. Im using the 90' fuel pump. 3.4 has new plugs in it.

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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 06:45 AM
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I just looked through my 98 4 runner 4x4 auto wiring diagrams and see no way to fool the ecu into thinking the trans is in neutral. There is no ecu neutral detect.
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 01:47 PM
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Magnetic clutch is mounted between the throttle motor and the valve, and it connects the throttle motor with
the throttle valve.
Therefore, the throttle motor opens and closes the throttle valve through the magnetic clutch.
If the electric throttle control system has a malfunction, the magnetic clutch separates the throttle motor from
the throttle valve in order not to operate the throttle valve by the throttle motor.
If this DTC is stored, the ECM shuts down the power for the throttle motor and the magnetic clutch, and the
throttle valve is fully closed by the return spring.


When did they start putting these on 3.4's? Sounds like it could fix mine, but its a 96 and I cant find one in the manual.

Last edited by Dropmytaco; Jun 30, 2010 at 02:41 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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Drive by wire was 2001 on I think.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 04:15 AM
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mechaniman-- ever get this resolved? what was the problem exactly?
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by sploople
mechaniman-- ever get this resolved? what was the problem exactly?
You might consider sending him a pm, looking at his profile he hasn't been around since the end of august.
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