Well after spending 2 weeks checking the wiring and repining i did, i have been able to eliminate that.
So my problem now lays in the ignition system, there is power to the ignitor but doesn't seem to be making it to the plugs or coils. does this mean bad ignitor?
where do i start??
NOW before i started this swap i ran the 3.4 for 30+ min with no battery and haven't started it since, so i may have fried something.

 

So do you have spark? Pull a plug on the driver side and check? Or are you not getting fuel? grab some starting fluid and give it a couple shots. See if it runs for a second or two.

 

getting the fuel, no spark, there was no power at the coil.

 

Not to sound like a jerk, But how do you know you have no spark? Are you getting 12v to the black with red stripe wire at the Ignitor? at the coils? with key on run? If not. Then your wiring is messed up. If you do have 12v there. Then you have something wrong with your cam/crank sensors.

 

you're not being a jerk, I do have power at the ignitor. and that's what I was looking for, something to follow, the cam/crank sensors.

ALSO, the wiring for the coil, ignitor and plugs was never touched, ergo if it is the wiring by chance, it's from the result of running it without the battery.

 

Longshot but are you sure that the ignitor is well grounded to the metal of the body. It needs to be bolted down to a clean metal point to be grounded. Wont work if not.

 

its something i can double check and will let you know.

 

Might be easier if you hooked up the ODBII and get yourself a scanner. Yes you don't need it for the motor to run, but right now it looks you could use it....

 

Check that you have good tight grounds to the motor, frame and body.

I prefer the come off the battery with a heavy 2 (4-6 would work) gauge or so straight to the block. From the block to the frame, and from the back of the block to the firewall.

 

Any updates??

 

he got a hood scoop from us , so he must have got it going ?




.

 

I prefer form before function

 

Sorry for the late replys everyone, the scoop is on and is awesome, ill post a pic soon. It is still NOT running however.
Here is the update, got some cold start (either) and it fired for 2 seconds then died.
We have checked for fuel and it is getting fuel and now we have determined there is some spark. So now we are thinking the Crank or Cam position sensor, would we be correct in thinking that?

 

Well i got your scoop on, id post pics if i had a site to host the image, so i put the new pic as my Avatar image.
<------------------ Yes I did turn it around.

 

Bump for some ideas ^

 

I guess it's possible but I don't personally know of any instance where one of these has gone bad. If it ran before the swap, you are still overlooking something. What about the starter trigger wire going to the STA terminal on the ECU or something simple like that?

 

Well i kept the original 3.0 starter and all the wiring. I would have wiried it according to the fsm. But why would the starter work if that wasnt connected. It would seem that would be specific to the starter motor and not ignition. Maybe im wrong and ill just have to check the wiring for a 5th time.

 

Just throwing this out there. If my starter was by chance not connected to STA on the ecu it wont start. Im guessing the ecu wont let the motor start without that signal? But why then would it fire and sputter to death 2 seconds later? Technically would that not mean timing is off. Possibly spark timing for each cylinder is my idea which would be crank or cam position sensor from what i have read. I could be wrong though.

 

For instance you need to splice a wire into your starter trigger wire, that connects to the STA terminal on the ECU to tell the ECU that it's time to start. Have you referred to dntsdad swap 101 thread? He covers many of the wiring caveats in great detail. That article also covers the COR wiring which can be tricky for a first timer. Also make sure you have +12v power to the ECU in all the appropriate places.

 

Yeah without seeing your wiring personally this is a crap shoot. Do you have any schematics or conversion sheet for us to look at? If not you may need to make so something.