IndoorCat

I searched to the best of my ability and didn't find an answer to this..Be gentle

I'll try to keep this short. I did a 3.4 swap on my 89 4Runner thanks to the insane amount of awesome threads on this site. My swapped 3.4 bit the dust and I decided to go the route of a JDM swap rather than bring it back to life with 325K on its clock. I'm just about done doing all the routine maintenance and swapping accessories but found a PF fitting that appears to be for coolant that interferes with my 3.0 engine mounts.

Anyone run into this? I feel line the long term option is to cut it flush, tap and plug it, but I'n a bit nervous I may screw it up and am not super keep on the potential to get metal chips in my coolant system.

Other option would be to trim the engine mount gusset and put a dead end line on it.

Any help would be appreciated. Pics of my 4Runner and the fitting in question for attention. Cheers!

IndoorCat

Pulled what I thought was the drain plug above it to get a better view of what would happen if I drilled it out. Whoosh!!! Out with the remainder of the coolant through the fitting in question. Re-inserted the bleeder bolt, hacked the PF tube off flush with the block, and went back to work. Cheers!

IndoorCat

Finally got the swap all tucked away this weekend and ran into a clutch issue. I can row through the gears with no resistance with the truck turned off. Once on I can't put it into gear. I can start in gear with with the clutch depressed or in neutral without lurching forward. Reverse grinds If I try to go from neutral but again can start with the transmission in reverse and clutch depressed, let out the clutch and go. If I start in gear I can shift.

I didn't have any issues with shifting before the new JDM 3.4 went in (worked fine with the last 3.4). I did put in a new OEM flywheel from MC and a pressure plate from the stealer-ship. Clutch master cylinder is bled. Pedal free play is set to the FSM and I have confirmed the pedal bracket is not cracked.

I searched around when putting in the clutch disk back in and everything I found said to put the side with the springs protruding out towards the transmission. Flatter side towards the flywheel. That is how I installed it. However the FSM shows the 3.4 being installed the other way. Was I correct in following the instructions for the 3.0? Any other ideas as to what I might be dealing with?

Smaay

yea hthat image dont look right, the springs are always facing out. I used the same clutch in my swap and the springs were facing out

Kolton5543

Its not unusual to be misinformed by the FSM. The springs side should be toward the trans. There's usually not enough space in the flywheel for them to go. Even if it were back wards, as long as it doesn't hit anything I don't see how it would keep the clutch from completely disengaging. If it were touching something you should hear it. Slave cylinder bolted down tight? Are you positive its bled completely? what flywheel and pressure plate are you using? 3.4 or 3.0? what were you using? you didn't accidentally put a 3.4 release bearing in did you? It should actually be longer but weirder things have happened. Sometimes the pedal just needs to be adjusted a little tight. Maybe with little driving it will break in. You didn't replace the slave or master cylinder did you? the wrong one could cause this problem.

Yotard

My buddy had this problem with his 3.4 swap he bought an after market clutch kit and the throwout bearing is shorter than the factory Toyota and won't work. Buy the factory Toyota bearing. His was just really hard to put in first gear and would have to turn it off to put it in reverse.

IndoorCat

Thanks for the replies. My clutch components are all OEM aside from the MC flywheel, and it was functioning well with my last 3.4. I'm pretty sure it is supposed to go in per the 5vz FSM. I started pulling the transmission last night and just have the bell house bolts to go. I'll report back with results one way or the other after flipping the clutch disk.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

It all depends on what brand clutch you get. The early clutch disks and covers were designed with the springs were about 70% of the way protruding out of the disk. That style clutch disk needed to be installed facing the flywheel. Most of the new and aftermarket clutch's have the springs 90% sticking out one side and will often have a label or punch marks showing which way to face the clutch disk. I haven't seen the old style clutch's for a while. Most should be phased out. When in doubt, check for a marking on the disk.

IndoorCat

Thanks for the insight, vital. Not having a Toyota mentor means help from the forums is very appreciated!

I'm still waiting for some replacement parts, but I have found numerous places that note even if the clutch has markings on it (as mine did) you MUST install it with the springs facing the flywheel. From the ORS website:



When I dropped my transmission I found the clutch disk was actually contacting the transmission output shaft beyond the splined section(keeping it from going any further back). This mushroomed the output shaft to the point that I had to do a little file work to get the release bearing off. The heat generated even melted the fwd edge of release bearing inner race. Apparently the clutch disk for the 3.4 is the only one that Toyota has ever designed to be installed springs/protrusion facing the flywheel.

I'm waiting on parts now, so it'll be a little while before I get it put back together. Staying busy by getting ready to retire the Zuk mod and install an OME kit I've been sitting on for 2 years.

Cleaning Up the front end for new ball joints, torsion rods, BJ spacers and shocks


Cleaning up the rear axle for a flip kit, Wheeler's bump stops and new shocks