I'm using the 3.0 bell housing too and duals with R151F as you did.

I just stuck the 3.4 stuff on to compare the two.

 

Sas954unner,

You have free play in your clutch fork now? Not even slight pressure against TO bearing?

 

When I did my 3.4 swap a few years ago I had serious issues with my TO bearing as well. I used the 3.4 clutch, and flywheel and the 3.0 TO bearing and bell housing. There was not enough room for the TO bearing to fully disengage the clutch, which resulted in the truck going nowhere. We hauled the TO bearing out, machined it down by about 5mm. There is almost no play in the clutch at all. When I have the clutch pedal fully depressed, the instant I take pressure off the pedal, the transmission engages and away it goes. From reading this thread, it sound like a simple bell housing swap would work OR using the 3.0 clutch and flywheel. When I did my research prior to the swap I was under the impression that the install required 3.0 TO bearing and bellhousing, 3.4 clutch and flywheel (which is about an 1/8th in thicker than the 3.0). My clutch has SUCKED for 3 years!! FML

 

Bringing this back from the dead.

I have a leaking rear man seal so I will be pulling the transmission. Figure while it's out I am going to swap out the clutch. Which setup should I get, all 3.0 stuff, or go with the 3.4 flywheel, clutch, and 3.0 T/O bearing? It's been a long time since I did my clutch but I want to say I am running 3.0 items right now but I could be wrong.