SO TOY

Well I have to say that this forum has been much help, so much info in one place is almost too much to take in. I dont really want to start out on my first post with a please help me but I cannot find the answer anywhere.

Heres what ive got 1992 4x4 with a M/T and 3.0l out of an earlier truck 88 I think, but I have neen kicking around doing a conversion on it for couple months. Well i got a great deal on the 96 auto 5VZ with wiring and all the needed parts so I figured that I would give it a go.

I started into the wiring and have it all sorted out, well all but one curcuit. Body connector C1 terminal 8 R/Y. so far it the only only wire that I cant trace down. I am at the point where I will have to hack into the 3.0 engine harness to trace it out. I really hope I am over looking it but I dont think I am.

Thanks

SacRunner

Look at the rear ABS section of your EWD.

On my 91 4Runner that connector is called IH1 (I'm 90% sure its the same connector, just with a different name...for whatever reason) its a R-Y on one side of the connector (going to the ABS ECU...body side of the harness) and the other side is a B-R wire going to pin 16 of the check connector on the engine harness (this is labeled "C1" for me).

On my swap, I tied that to connector II1 pin 9 (96/97 4Runner). I actually think I pulled that pin out of II1 and moved it to II3 since that was the only connection that would be used on II1, so I moved it to a previously un-used spot on II3.

SO TOY

You are spot on, Im not sure how I missed it but I did. Thanks much.

SacRunner

No problem, there were definitely a couple wires that were next to impossible to find, and I think this was one of them.

SO TOY

SO after mapping out the wiring I started on on checking out the engine I picked up last saturday and I found a problem. Looks like the thign sat with a popped head gasket and cyl #5 is fubar. Engine wouldnt roll over full 360 felt as if it was up solid on somthing. Pulled the heads and found rust in the top of the cyl no super heavy pitting but rusted none the less.

Long story short Im I need of parts, ENGINE BUILDER does not sell parts for the 5VZ so ? I thought these thing used an MLS head gasket but not what I found. Toyota parts I guess!!

SacRunner

Oh that sucks man, but I know your pain and frustration (my first 3.4 had a blown head gasket and both heads were cracked pretty bad).

Toyota sells a full top-end gasket kit for something like $450-500 with all the gaskets you'll need for a head gasket job, but that doesn't include new head bolts (at $16 each and I think you need 16); they're torque to yield (TTY) bolts and shouldn't be reused.

SO TOY

Well my build is at a stand still. I need to here what you would do! So ive I purchased the engine, harness and Auto ECU Auto trans and a rear diff from an 01 runner for 600. The block needs to be O/H, needs valve job (two exh valves are rusted to the guides).
Option
1. is another used short block 500, 400 for valve grind set (OEM) plus head work.
2. rebuild what I have, 700 for master rebuild kit plus machine shop and head work and ? for all the little things.

3. long block from wrecking yard for 950 plus the gasket set for 400.
4. OEM short block 3300
Im leaning toward picking up another engine and possably building this for a replacement later down the road.

SacRunner

I went with the warrantied junkyard motor over rebuilding the one I had on hand.

I did this for a couple reasons: (1) the Toyota top-end gasket set ($450) + head bolts ($150) + 2 new heads ($600) was just about as much as a junk yard long block; and I had no idea what the condition of the bottom end of my was in and for all I know it had experienced some very serious abuse and wear too; (2) After realizing just how much torque was on those head bolts by taking the old ones off, I didn't feel like warping a head by doing something wrong; (3) my swap was basically all done (except for a few issues I would later find) so i could clean up the "new" motor, move all the swap parts over to it, drop it in, connect everything and have it ready to start in just a couple of weekends (well before the 3 month warranty expired).

Your situation will be different than mine; mine looked used and abused (the outside was all corroded, not really that big of a deal, but still, and everything under the valve covers and in the oil pan was black and caked on hinting at infrequent oil changes which, more or less, implies lack of maintenance). I decided to pay the extra money for a "known" good motor with a warranty.

Honestly, if the heads check out OK after the valve job, I would rebuild what you have unless you have enough doubts about the rest of the block that you're willing to spend the extra money for a second.

Check out the swap thread in my signature if you want to see what I found when with my first motor.

SO TOY

I will get some pics up as soon as I get a chance. Monday the engine is headed down to the machine shop, LCE master kit and Head studs in the very near future.

SO TOY

So ive been waiting for my engine to come back from the machine shop so I decided to convert my auto harness to manual, I bought the ECU connectors but when I got to looking at the terminals I found two different size terminals. It seems to me that I read about this but am unable to find the post. I need about eight of these and would like to just buy them from Toyota any help would be greatly appriceated.

dntsdad

Just go to a pick and pull and look through any toyota. Should be all the same.

Just cut the wire from the connector, leaving the terminal.

SO TOY

IF it was only that easy,, where I live all the cars are stippped of wire for the copper. The toys come in and they get stripped for the swap assy and then parted out.

Thanks to SAC Runner he was able to give me part numbers that I was looking for now I just need to find the MAF connector and Ignitor connector part numbers. As per the Machine shop I should see the engine tomorrow, but who knows. Thankd sgsin for the help.

SO TOY

Well I got the engine back finally, had to fit four studs that hit the cam gears but got it all put back together last night. Just need to wrap it with some tin and throw it in