I bought Amsoil (and alot of it cause of that 6 month membership thing) and thought I was buying the best. Not that it is that much better than Mobil 1 but had I known about the API rating I would have just went with the Mobil1.

Now my question is, Why the heck is it not API approved? For such a premium oil with a premium price tag you would think it would be. (I assumed it was, go figure)

 

I think it cost something like $185K for each approval and each time they tweek the formula it would cost them another $185K to get it approved again. Small company that has been able to sell their oil without the API approval. Amsoil puts the wording on their oil that says they meet the API whatever and if you are not an educated consummer you don't realize that you need the donut to prove it is approved. I just don't want to play while the 4runner is under warranty. Amsoil is a great oil and gets great used oil analysis, as good or better than Mobil 1.

 

Just switched to Amsoil Synthetic 10W-30 after using Castrol Syntec 5W-30 for the past while.

 

What I'm wondering(beyond the ball bearing wear test and the api certification) is arent both Mobil1 and Amsoil two of the best oils out there for oil intervals up to 5000K miles?

 

The 4-ball test is kinda meaningless in the real world but yea, both Mobil 1 and Amsoil are "true" synthetics, as is Redline and a few others. With a "true" synthetic you can run 7500 miles or 6 months between oil changes and even then, you can probably go another 5000 or better if you just change the filter and top it off with new oil at the 1st 7500 mile mark. The filter is the key to extended drains, it should filter out particles over 12 micron - Amsoil and Mobil 1 both have outstanding oil filters but they are a little expensive. The Purelator Pure 1 filter is probably the best for the money and is right behind the Amsoil and Mobil 1 filters, which says a lot about the Pure 1. On sale they should go for 4.95 to 5.25 - add a buck for regular price. Mobil 1 synthetic oil is less expensive and is readily available throughout the country, whereas, Amsoil (the "true" synthetic oil as opposed to the XL-7500 type) costs more and normally isn't found in retail stores across the country.

 

Kinda what I figured. I'm planning to send in 5000 mile results on my work car(saturn sl1 42k miles) and my taco (3.4l 51K miles) at their next changes to blackstone. I'm running amsoil 5w-30 and the SDF on both. I might even swap to toyo oil and filter on the next change then compare that to the amsoil 5k mile results. dunno yet.

 

Change your oil and filter at the recommended intervals, buy whatever dino oil is on sale, with the proper API code, and you'll be fine.

 

I think if you play hard then synthetic is the way to go since it's way more temperature stable than dino oil. I can't imagine ever using dino oil in my turboed Eclipse since I've seen what happens to both when exposed to extreme heat plus dino oil really thickens up in below zero temps vs the same weight synthetic.

If I just had a regular daily driver car (non performance) I would just use dino oil but anything that's driven hard will really benefit from synthetic.

 

X-AWDriver. I think you hit the nail on the head. Good advise.

 

I used to use Mobile 1. Now I use nothing but AMSOIL in all my toys.AMSOIL oil and filters. Great Stuff.www.puresynthetics.com

 

lol how many of you guys have ever blown a motor due to not running synthetic.....dont get me wrong I know the syns are better in all ways other then price...but I have never had a vehicle that didnt go past 200k using dino oil when changed properly. Granted if you want extended drain intervals then syn is the way to go. If you gonna do it every 5k anyway (like Toyota recommends for dino oil use) then why use it?....the only motor I ever had blow up was the 2 liter in my WRX which was running Mobil 1......so, ya....glad i spent the extra 20 bucks on the changes....

 

Turbochargers benefit greatly from synthetics period and the stuff kept my Eclipse together for 117,000 hard driven and hard raced miles and never incurred turbo problems either;the car is now in NM and has almost 125k and is strill drag raced regularly.

 

I agree with a gasoline turbochargered engine I would only use a good synthetic.

 

how did that happen

 

not really sure....everything was tore up.....look like a rod broke....boost psi was normal when it went.....it was modded though but it should have held up better.....probably just a freak defect in the metal or something.....

 

Ran Castrol 10-40 in the first engine which lasted about 325,000 and now run redline 10-40 changing it about every 15k or so

 

The type of Amsoil you will want to use is dependant on a number of factors. If your rig has less than 75,000 miles, has been properly maintained (regular oil & filter changes), and is mechanically sound (no oil spills on the garage floor, no shooting the blues out the exhaust pipe), you can feel confident going with the Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30. This is the top-of-the line product which I run. You can go one year, or 35,000 miles, which ever comes first before having to change the oil with this product.

If your rig has over 75,000 miles and is mechanically sound you could also go with one of the XL-7500 Series products. This product can be used for 7500 miles or six months before an oil change is required.

If your rig has been poorly maintained, leaks oil, etc keep using cheapo dino, it isnt worth the change.

If you change to Amsoil I would highly suggest doing an Amsoil engine flush first. To switch to Amsoil I would suggest doing the following:

1. Drain the dino & pull the old filter.
2. Put on a standard filter like you have been using and fill the engine with cheapo dino, leaving enough room for the Amsoil engine flush product.
3. Read the instructions on the engine flush and run your engine for the period of time recommended.
4. drain the dino (notice how cruddy it looks, the Amsoil really cleans up the deposits), and lose the filter.
5. Install a new Amsoil filter, fill er up with the appropriate Amsoil oil, run the engine, recheck the oil & top off if needed.

This is my routine: On July 1 of each year I do an oil & filter change, on January 1 I just change out the filter. Since I travel less than 25,000 miles each year, and since the oil is good for 35,000 miles and the filter for 12,500 this works out great for me. I cannot believe how good that oil looks every July 1. It's a tremendous product. It will help your engine last longer and should improve your mileage slightly.

 

I'm getting ready to switch my '99 over to Mobile 1 syn next week and then Redline fluids will be in all the gear boxes shortly after.

 

As strange as it sounds I use shell avation oil. It is aircraft certified and has virtually no ash content. My cessna runs at or near full throttle for hours at a time... this oil stands up. I do change it religiously.

 

You use the the just the oil cause I thought airplane engines where 2 cycle, fuel and oil is mixed