After yanking out my fan for a flex a lite the other day I did a thorough investigation of my belts and have decided they need changed. I have had a new set here for a while just needed an excuse to change them. Anways my chiltons says a whole lot of crap about the tension using numbers from a special tool. I've always just stuck them on and made sure I couldn't push the belt down more than about 1/4" in the middle between pulleys. Think I would be safe doing this with my runner or should I let the stealer stick them on? With the fan gone it looks fairly simple to do I've just never done em on a Yota before. Any inputs would be great!

 

Hey UK! belated welcome back!
Yeah a quarter inch play sounds right to me. But if it is just belts any mechanic should be able to set the tension for you and check the pulley alignment. I think the idler pulley is adjustable in/out as well as for tension so it is important that this be set as well to prevent wear. i would'nt go to a stealer for that unless there were no good general mechanics in the area. Heck talk to one of the A&Ps on base for a pint on of them should be able to do it. Aviator

 

I just did my belts last week. Its too easy of a job to let the stealer overcharge you for it.

See the post I just put in the coolant change thread.

 

which flex-a-lite did you buy? I just installed the black magic single fan a month ago and had some difficulty getting the mounting brackets to line up. Let me know what issues you have.

I still haven't hooked up the A/C wire yet or set up the switched (+) wire to the fuse block, right now both (+) wires are connected to the (+) terminal on the battery.

As for a month review, I'm not seeing too much of a difference in the fuel economy maybe 1 mpg but not much. I changed my belts at the same time and the engine is much quieter. When I fire it up in the morning all I hear is the valves and the exhaust. While I like the look and the added throttle response, I'm a little disappointed. The thing was pretty expensive and more of a cosmetic mod than anything. Though it is pretty cool to fire it up on a cold morning and just hear engine.

Let me know where you route your wiring to the fuse block and A/C. I could use some advice there.

 

Travis I had the same issue with the drivers side bracket. I ground it down to clear the power steering line. I have the FLX-165 from Summit. As far as the + wire I tapped into the black wire with a yellow stripe that comes outta the fusebox with a scotchlock it' works fine with the key. I was bit dissappointed too but I have noticed an increase in fuel economy. I've got some info for you on the AC wire. Shoot me an email via the forum and I'll pass it on to you. I'll also email you on how I made my brackets work clean
UK

 

The single wire from the AC compressor will activate the clutch and run the compressor if it gets power. If you have the AC wire wired so that it always gets +12 volt (like wiring directly to the battery) it will:

(A) Run the battery down when the engine is not running.
(B) Always turn the compressor when the engine is running.
(C) Maybe ruin the clutch device because its not fused.

You want the wire to be switched in some way so that the guts of your compressor are only turning when you need something compressed. When that wire gets no power the pulley for the AC turns but not the inside of the compresor.